This is my plan for the engine after the suspension, brakes, steering, sound dampening, and lightening are all completed...figured I'd get the car to handle and stop the way I want it to before I go and add power. I have replaced the front bumper support to tigthen up that suspension Rich!
Let's start with the bottom end and work up:
1. Stock oil pan - no frills here

2. Lightened, knife-edged, and stroked .100" or so stock forged 5SFE crank
3. New 5.555" length BME aluminum rods (going longer rod with longer stroke to preserve the rod ratio)
4. Flex-honed oil gallery and passages (did this last year)
5. Polished all oil galleries to a near mirror-finish with a Dremel and lots of time
6. Custom DLC-coated titanium wrist pins
7. 12.5 to 13:1 CR custom hypereutectic pistons (high-silicon alloy). Pistons will be DLC coated on the sides, ring lands, and skirts. Thermal coating on the crowns.
8. Block bored until it's clean AND NO FURTHER! Maybe .020" but not to exceed .050" in any event!
9. The correct cometic SS head gasket of course
10. Custom titanium 3mm oversize valves - I will turn and reface these on the lathe. Then they receive a 2-step coating, first with TiN, then DLC. The exhaust valves will have the DLC burnt off of the hottest parts but the TiN will remain for anti-wear purposes.
11. Beryllium-copper valve seats, TiN coated. Will use ZrN if TiN isn't compatible
12. Custom head porting and extrude honing - All ports will have matching CFM flow rates. Valve guide extension removed for maximum airflow.
13. All valve reliefs, pockets, etc to be deshrouded. All combustion chambers to be CC'ed to within .25mL. Combustion chambers polished to reflect as much heat as possible (using water injection as well for high CR)
14. Custom DLC coated titanium shimless buckets (only 15 left to make!)
15. Custom .450" or higher high-lift camshaft (as far as I know this has never been attempted. I've seen .406" lift but none higher). Will have to remove material from the head so that the lobes clear!!! Titanium valves will allow for a less-duration, faster-to-close cam profile that will hopefully increase low-RPM driveability. Should be reliable past 9000 RPM (the pistons lose reliability past this point though - but with DLC coatings...who knows????
16. 2JZ-GTE modified adjustable cam gear. If I could find a way to make both cams independent, I would - but no dice yet
17. Stage 2 clutch and pressure plate
18. E153 5th gear swap. May do the whole tranny if I fry the stock trans at a 9000 RPM shift - I'll be ready with a replacement!
19. Custom underdrive pulley set - made by yours truly

20. Jet hot exhaust manifold coatings
21. Obviously a tune from HELL is in order after all this stuff is put together!
22. Got to have water injection - no exceptions. I'm not running EGR with this motor so combustion temps need to be as low as possible at all times.
23. Cold air intake with the upgraded 5SFE intake manifold
24. Lastly - This car needs to weigh 2250 lbs without a driver. If I can get 500 lbs more out of the car it should be a 12 second vehicle. High 12s most likely, and with 250 HP this is absolutely possible. With 275 HP it should run mid 12s. 2.3 N/A liters can produce these numbers, but EVERYTHING has to be working perfectly - this is no easy task and I mean it when I'm taking my time with the build. Another reason why the engine is the last thing to get built. I got started almost 2 years ago and much has changed: Originally was going to destroke the motor to 1.9L with some 6.000" Ti rods, but that didn't work out. Would have been a powerful and economical build, but now I'm leaning for more torque. Longer stroke should help out with the low-end power while the Ti and experimental parts will make the powerband stay longer and grow taller as 9000RPM is reached. Each little bit of friction reduction and weight loss will help - and when it's done it will be one hell of a sleeper. That's the plan, anyway