3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Spent most of the day on this forum searching and searching. Got lots of answers and used some of them - they helped, some.
Joined and searched some more.
Here is my issue:
1993 Toyota Camry LE, I6 w/ 250,000 miles on it - bought used last year.
In the last 3 days it has gone from dandy to dead.
Started Wednesday afternoon. Wife was driving it and it just died - not sputter, no mutter, just DEAD. Checked it out - belt still on, rotor turning, all wires connected. Checked for spark and none. 30 minutes later it fired up.
She went 1/2 block and it died again. Went and got a new fuel filter, installed it, it started and made it almost home (8 miles) before it died on the highway. 70 mph and then dead.
Went home, searched internet, went back 1 hour later and it didn't start. Put a new plug in the #1 wire, grounded it, cranked and spark. It started then died (3 plugs). Connected plug wire back, started it and made it home 4 miles away. It sat and idled for 10 minutes and then died again. Upon inspection, no spark again.
Thursday got a new coil and installed it in the evening. Started right up and ran down the outer road and back for about 10 minutes without incident.
Friday I drove it into work - made it 9 miles and died again. Coasted onto off ramp and parked it. Wife was following and took me to work. Took off mid-morning and got the car - it started and drove it to parts store.
Went in and got a temp sensor. Went to leave and it wouldn't start. Pulled the ICM off and got it checked - bad. Bought a new one and put it on. Started right up. Drove it back to work.
Car sat 4 hours, went to leave and it would not start. No spark again. Put old ICM on - no start. Took new ICM back and had it tested - good. Put it back on car - no start.
Bought new cap (found out the dist is for a 93 corola) and put it on. The coil contact stud was broken off of the old one. Put new cap on and still no start.
Came home!
Talked with friend/mechanic and he suggested cam/crank sensor.
Been told maybe cam/crank sensor, but it doesn't have one (been reading).
Been told maybe pick-up coil. Can't find one to buy, just a whole dist.
Mike
I'd think that a failure of the cam or crank sensor that was bad enough to cause a no-start would also set the check engine light.
Something in the dizzy seems like a good possibility. Since you've already changed out the most likely culprit (the coil), subbing in a used dizzy from a pick-and-pull wouldn't be a bad move. Let me check my 3VZ manuals to see if there is something obvious I might be missing...
i would suggest looking into the igniter and testing it. first thing is to make sure the connection at the ingiter is clean and secure. check the igniter signal at the ecu ensure there is voltage between the E1 and IGP pins on the ecu. you are looking for 1-3V at idle. this will ensure the signal from the ecu to the igniter is good and vice versa. sounds like a faulty igniter to me, but we can move onto other tests as well.
checking the resistance of the coil is simple. first check for primary coil resistance. remove the connector on the coil and measure the resistance between the two pins. the resistance should be between 0.21-0.32 ohms.
next, check the secondary coil resistance. measure the resistance between the positive terminal on the coil and the coil wire port. the resistance values should be between 6.4-10.7 K ohms.
go from there and if both check out then we can look into other things.
Crank sensor will almost always give you a no start situation. It will do exactly as you listed, start run and stall. When it gets really bad it will crank but won't start, or crank and start for a split second and stall
I have replaced the coil ($40), the ignitor or ICM ($225) and the Cap ($32).
The original ignitor tested bad, new one tested good at parts store (their machine).
Coil was just a swap out of new for old.
Dist cap was missing the contact post for the coil, had just a flat spot.
Um...not to be picky but do you have a 4 or 6 cylinder. In yer first post you stated I6 (which I figured you meant the V6) and now in yer last post you say I4.
You might want to carefully check yer ignitor wiring fer nicks/cuts where it could be shorting/grounding out. BTW...is yer check engine light on?
Not sure if yer year has the ODBII or not but if you do, you might want to put a computer diagnostic on it and see what you can find out.
__________________
1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
Sorry for the confusion. It is a 93 Camry with a 2200 I4 (in-line 4-cyl) engine and automatic transmission.
All the wires look good. All connectors are clean and straight.
Just put a new distributor in it and it still will not start.
NO check engine light, ever. Only comes on when it dies (when it ran).
Did the papar clip code read.
Got a 12 = RPM singal, or lack there of.
And a 24 = Intake Air Temp Sensor.
RPM signal should be a distributor thing, but it is BRAND NEW.
The Igniter is BRAND NEW and tested.
I like the clearnace motors for their non-destroy properties when the belt goes, but I dislike the fact that it take 85,000 electronic pieces to make them run.
About to give up and burn the whole car. (wife agrees)
I only paid $1500 for the car when I bought it.
I have just dropped $500 into TRYING to fix this issue.
Somethings gotta give. At least everything I bought is lifetime warrenty.
now that we know its a 5S-FE, we can help you a shade further. the only thing you have not done is check the IGT signal from the ecu. measure the resistance between the E1 and EGT pins on the ecu while cranking the engine. the voltage should be between 0.8-1.2 V. if its not within spec, the FSM suggests checking the wiring for faults and then replacing the ecu if not wiring faults are found.
if anything its a free test that could possibly help you. if it doesn't or the ecu tests ok then all you are out is time.
Does the vehicle have an alarm system? Ignition kill system? If so...then the wiring from that to the ignitor might be suspect and warrant further investigation. Don't rush into it with new parts. Diagnose and think about it.
Snap some piccies of the engine bay and post them up.
__________________
1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
Went back this morning, Sunday, with a mechanic/friend.
First thiing we did was unhook the aftermarket remote start. Cranked the engine and did not start. Onward.
We tested all the leads/contacts with a multi-meter. Everything checked out. Dug in some more and we were getting mixed signals from the coil. Dug a little more and decided my new distributor was bad. No spark!
Back to the store and got it swapped out, no questions asked, and headed back to the car. We plugged it in without mounting it. Turned on the key and spun the dist by hand. Spark at testing plug and could hear the injectors firing.
Mounted the dist and hooked everything back up. Cranked it and it wanted to start, but was fighting itself. Check the spark plug wires and 1 and 3 were reversed. Cranked again and it started but ran rough. Checked the wired again and finally got all 4 in the right spots.
Turned the key and it started and purred nicely. Tweaked the timing a bit and we are good. Put the breather back on and we are on our way.
Drove it aroud for about 45 minutes (90 degrees outside) and it ran like a charm. Turned it off and started it again - no issues. Yea-Haa.
Fuel filter (needed), ignitor (tested bad), distributor (ultimate issue) and a dist cap.
Totaled out at right around $450 in electronics. 1/3 of what we bought it for a year ago.
Thanks again for all the suggestions and help. This Forum really helped me out!
Mike
1993 Camry LE I4/auto - running again!
Last edited by Cougarkid; 08-07-2011 at 02:11 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to Cougarkid For This Useful Post:
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