3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
94 Camry V6le. I drove this car today around 25C and with a/c max driving for 20 mins. The temp gauge (rad) around the middle between H/L and stop for 10 mins.
Drove another 30 mins the rad temp gauge is above the middle like 3/4 up.
I shut off the A/C and is drop back a little like a little above the the middle may is 3/5 up.
Is there anything I have to worry about. I haven't drove this car for a while. My son usually
drive it to school (short trip) and he use it for winter driving. Also I think the coolant is around 60 - 65% anti-freeze and 40 - 35% water
How are the cooling fans? Are they kicking in? (I can't remember if 94' V6 were electric or hydraulic) The gauge going above halfway show signs of cooling problem.
How are the cooling fans? Are they kicking in? (I can't remember if 94' V6 were electric or hydraulic) The gauge going above halfway show signs of cooling problem.
The cooling fan is running. I can hear it. Usually when the gauge above halfway is when my car is going up hill.
2 weeks ago The gauge shooting all the way to Hi and I only have water no antifreeze in the rag. I throught might be the rad cap too. Anyway I change the cap too and frush the rad and fill it with anti freeze mix around 60 - 40.
MAybe I save the coolant tomorrow and frush the rad again with some rad. frush cleaner.
see it help. I frush the rad every year since 94...lol And use distill water and anti freeze.
Maybe the cooling fan can't keep up with the heat. The rad. never change and no leak...etc.
If the coolant is disappearing, it has to go somewhere. If there are no external leaks, then it might be going into the engine or transmission. (if it had a built in cooler) But then it could have boil off from a weak cap.
How is the exterior of the radiator and condenser? Sometimes dirt, dust, or heavily damaged fins can stop air flow through the radiator.
If the coolant is disappearing, it has to go somewhere. If there are no external leaks, then it might be going into the engine or transmission. (if it had a built in cooler) But then it could have boil off from a weak cap.
How is the exterior of the radiator and condenser? Sometimes dirt, dust, or heavily damaged fins can stop air flow through the radiator.
There is no lost of coolant, there are some damage fin at the part of the Rad. which I think is normal for a 17 yrs old car. I just wonder why sudden the temp runs a little bit high maybe the weather and the fan can't keep up the heat. I will do another test run tomorrow without turn in the a/c and see.
Do you have any debris blocking the radiator fins? Can you tell if any of the visible cores (via the filler neck) looked clogged or any deposits? It's possible yer radiator could be bad. You could replace it without doing any more tests but it's yer money.
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
If its getting hot under load with no coolant loss it might be radiator or waterpump.
However before you do anything change thermostat, it could be stuck partially closed and stopping flow. Make sure you buy the gasket as well.
Blast the radiator with a hose engine side out. You can spray it down with 409 or simply green to clean i a bit. Toyota rads don't really rot out but if its the original rad its probably shot.
Do you have any debris blocking the radiator fins? Can you tell if any of the visible cores (via the filler neck) looked clogged or any deposits? It's possible yer radiator could be bad. You could replace it without doing any more tests but it's yer money.
A few month ago. I saw a few drop of anti-freeze on my driveway even day. And is bugging me/. So I purchase a bottle of Rad. stop leak and pull it in and after that the leak stop and
since then I have this problem. I am going to get some rad. flush clean today and frush it and see.
A few month ago. I saw a few drop of anti-freeze on my driveway even day. And is bugging me/. So I purchase a bottle of Rad. stop leak and pull it in and after that the leak stop and
since then I have this problem. I am going to get some rad. flush clean today and frush it and see.
Well...I think it might be time to price out a new radiator. They should have it at AutoZone/Advance Auto/O'Reilly's Auto. Probably wouldn't hurt to give them a call... \
Those stop leaks have specific instructions...something about gitting all the anti-freeze out of the system before you put it in...of course yer not gonna be able to git it all out.
I don't think you'll be able to flush out that stop leak stuff out...but I'd be curious how much you git out. Don't fergit to snap some piccies and post them!
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1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active Suspension, 6½" dropped front air dam, 4½" drop full belly pan, 4° rear diffuser, 11" side skirts, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, 67% grill block = 26mpg highway!
Quote:
Originally Posted by n c t t o r a
You have used a censored word. Please remove this word.
Well...I think it might be time to price out a new radiator. They should have it at AutoZone/Advance Auto/O'Reilly's Auto. Probably wouldn't hurt to give them a call... \
Those stop leaks have specific instructions...something about gitting all the anti-freeze out of the system before you put it in...of course yer not gonna be able to git it all out.
I don't think you'll be able to flush out that stop leak stuff out...but I'd be curious how much you git out. Don't fergit to snap some piccies and post them!
I flush the rad. out and the temp stay normal with heat on max. I will add the coolant in and see and if I still have the problem I will look into getting a new rad. I am in Canada.
I might have to order one in town here or from state and p/u next month when I go down there to pick up some wheels and winter tires for my other car.
And I migth have to send out for someone to change it for me. Doesn't look easy to change.
I ran the car good 30 mins and the level is good. Son told me the temp is a little bit on the high side for a longer run / trip. Been like that for a while that I don't know since he is the one driving the Camry for a yr now. I will try to learn/read how to change it.
And if I want to keep this car I need to change the timming belt soon been 90000 km since last change. Is that worth ti spend anymore $ on this 17 yrs old car is another issue,
And if I want to keep this car I need to change the timming belt soon been 90000 km since last change. Is that worth ti spend anymore $ on this 17 yrs old car is another issue,
This Camry have 406000 km on it already.
You got some good life out of that Camry with that much km/miles. If everything else is in good shape like the engine, transmission, suspension, tires, brakes, ect. I see no reason why not to keep it. A DIY on the T-belt, water pump, and other little things will cost about $100-$300 depending where you buy your stuff and have all the tools ready. A shop may charge $600 and up.
But if the repairs cost much more than the value of the car, then I might stop there.
The car still running very good. I might ask the Mechanic that's work at my work place. He repair all the heavy equipment and see how much he charging me. The Car worth nothing these days. They call it a running right off. Maybe I am going to spend another $ 600 and should be good for a few years. If I don't need to change the Rad. And if Yes I have to add another 300.
I checked the NADA trade in value on my Camry last week, and it was -$200. That's right, MINUS 200 dollars!!! So going by value, I shouldn't even change the oil.
I don't look at repair costs Vs value. I consider the repair cost Vs how many months of car payments on something I'd buy. So, for example, $600 for struts is about 2 payments on what I might buy if I replaced it (probably with a Lexus ES300 or ES330). So if I think it'll last longer than 2 months, I pay for the repair instead of junking it.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
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