1992 Camary A/C problem

[Ladyhobo]

Recently bought a 1992 Camary 6cyl. Love the car, but have had nothing but problems with the A/C. We were told the compressor was bad, bought rebuilt compressor and replaced, Also had to replace condensor as it had a leak. Vacuum was pulled....no leaks also changed the expansion valve. Refilled with freon, was tested with guages and the readings are correct. Blew 42 degree air but after about 20 minutes started blowing warm air. Clutch is engaging, compressor is working, lines that are supposed to be cold are and it does condense, dripping water under the car. Still blowing warm air. If I have it put on an analyzer will it pin point the problem or does anyone have any other suggestions? Could it be a relay or maybe the vents are not opening/closing like they are supposed to?

[hill8570]

Watching the gauges while the problem is occurring would tell a lot.

Did they replace the receiver/dryer too? If it was the original, it was probably saturated with moisture...off chance you're getting enough moisture released from there that you're getting freeze-up in the expansion valve. Sorta-kinda guesswork without seeing the gauges

[dc_98_cam]

Something happened at the 20 minute point. ... some sort of malfunction.
Are you sure that the suction line in the engine compartment is cold?
... That's the larger of the two going into the compressor.

Do you have a sight glass? What does it look like when you get warm air out of the vents?

Is the green LED on the A/C switch ... on the control panel ... still lighted up ... even with warm air?

[Ladyhobo]

The compressor, condenser and dryer were changed and the a/c worked great for about a week. Then went out. That is when the guages were put on and it was determined that the expansion valve was stuck open.

With the gauges on and engine running low side reading around 60 - 70 and high side was around 200 which told me it was low on freon, when you pressed on the accelerator both high and low sides would go into a vacuum. That is why the expansion valve was changed. Readings were then low side pulled down while charging to about 40 on the gauge and the high side went upto about 275 - 300. Dye was shot into the system and there is no evidence of dye showing. Gauges have not been put on since the problem started again.

There is a site glass and it shows clear no bubbles.

Could the cycle switch be bad or thermostat control valve be bad, and anyone know where they are located?

Yes the green LED light is still on when it is blowing warm air.

[dc_98_cam]

Do you recall the engine rpm when you took the high and low gauge pressures?
I believe that the specification is to get the gauge pressures at 1500 rpm.

The service manual gives these values:
Low Side:
22-36 psi
High Side:
199-228 psi

Note ... this means with the engine at 1500 rpm, air inlet temperature 86-95F, RECIRC, HI FAN, max cool
'some variation due to ambient temperature'

Does the suction line .... going into the compressor ... in the engine compartment ....the larger of the two lines ... feel cool or cold ... or is it warm?

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by Ladyhobo

Refilled with freon, was tested with guages and the readings are correct. Blew 42 degree air but after about 20 minutes started blowing warm air. Clutch is engaging, compressor is working, lines that are supposed to be cold are and it does condense, dripping water under the car. Still blowing warm air.

Originally Posted by Ladyhobo

Gauges have not been put on since the problem started again.

You should take gauge readings again, but as you surmised it could be non-A/C related - heater valve, blend door malfunction.