3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I always drove full-size Chevrolet Caprice Classics for the last thirty years. I know them so they are easy to work on and parts are cheap and easy to find. But:
My wife had been talking about getting a front-wheel drive car because we are in the snow-belt area of the Northeast though and she picked up a 2000 Camry with 116,000 miles on it from a relative in St.Louis MO for $600. Cheap but it needs a lot of work as no one ever did any maintenance on it. It is a four-cylinder with an automatic transmission.
I have never owned a foreign car before to drive and work on, so it is interesting. Seems like an okay car and easy to work on.
Had original exhaust, falling apart at the flex joint, which I have replaced with a Walker unit that was almost $300, ouch. Replaced downstream O2 sensor as long as exhaust was out. Had to stand on my head behind back seat to find and disconnect the connector for it. I am 6'2" tall, so I do not fit in small places well.
Brake pedal goes down a lot when pressed so I am guessing it needs pads.
Car has original struts, seems like the left rear is sort of bouncy compared to the other corners, so I am guessing it will need all four struts. I have read that Tokico struts are good on rough northeast roads, but have not found a dealer for them close-by, only KYB are available locally along with the junkie Monroe and Gabriel stuff. Is KYB good?
I have ordered a parts-kit that has all OEM parts in it to replace the camshaft timing belt, water pump, idler pulleys, gaskets and other belts. I have heard that at 116K the timing belt is long overdue to be changed so I am just going to do it.
Car has hail damage-dimples all over it, does not bother me and are probably un-fixable anyway. All four corners of car have been involved in parking-lot hits and there are cracks in the plastic bumpers etc. I have to research how to fix those. Left front headlight adjuster and side-marker light were broke, but I JB welded the parts back together and they seem like they will be okay. Car is spotless as far as rust goes, the only thing that made it worth spending time on.
Engine seems to run fine. Oil must have been changed, does not smoke. I will surely change the engine and tranny fluid along with any other fluids that need changed, looks like there is a plug on the bottom for differential fluid maybe.
I imagine there are other suspension parts etc. I will run across that the 116K have beat up and are ready to replace.
I used the name Nortonguy because the forum computer liked it and said it was not taken yet. My father was a dealer/racer of British motorcycles in the fifties and sixties, and I have been messing with those almost since I was born.
Looks nice man! Welcome to the family, bro. Brake pedal issue could be fluid related. Might wanna double check the fluid before changing pads (though I'd change the pads and rotors anyway as well as a fluid flush!). Go ahead and change all 4 struts if you feel they need it. For a stock feeling ride, Monroe or KYB will be spot on. Tokico's are performance oriented and will be a bit stiffer and harsher ride. I've got Monroe's on the front and KYB's in the back, and I can't complain about anything except my bad strut mount up front. Hail damage can be fixed, but as I recall it's quite costly. Look into it though! Bumpers you can get at the junkyard and then get paint matched relatively cheap, or if you're a DIY guy you can paint them yourself with DupliColor.
You've got an extremely durable and easy to work on car. Parts are USUALLY cheap, so that's nice. But make sure to shop around for parts, makes some friends at the stores and you can get better prices!!!
Car has original struts, seems like the left rear is sort of bouncy compared to the other corners, so I am guessing it will need all four struts. I have read that Tokico struts are good on rough northeast roads, but have not found a dealer for them close-by, only KYB are available locally along with the junkie Monroe and Gabriel stuff. Is KYB good?
KYB is the OEM supplier to Toyota, so most people say they give equivalent ride to the original. I just put a set on my Avalon and like 'em a lot.
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Engine seems to run fine. Oil must have been changed, does not smoke. I will surely change the engine and tranny fluid along with any other fluids that need changed, looks like there is a plug on the bottom for differential fluid maybe.
This year Camry is within the "sludger" era for Toyota (read this article), so you might wanna take a peek under the valve cover before you sink a lot of money into it. If the oil changing was neglected, they can get ugly.
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I imagine there are other suspension parts etc. I will run across that the 116K have beat up and are ready to replace.
Common probs are sway bar links and bushings. Less common are the front lower control arm bushings and the bushings on the rear control arms... with your mileage, they're probably OK. But worth taking a look.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
chances are, you still own an american car. Most camrys sold in the US were made in the US. Welcome to the community.
Ditto! And if your VIN number starts with a 4T1 it's American as apple pie. A lot of American people built it and suppliers supplied it.
That area of Kentucky has flourished because of Toyota. And now the same for southern Mississippi.
Welcome! Great car. Had one like it, and bought another one.
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Bin wrenchin' on the Yota's since '84
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2000 Tundra SR5 4.7 Ex Cab
2010 Camry LE 2.5 Cheers!
chances are, you still own an american car. Most camrys sold in the US were made in the US. Welcome to the community.
Thanks for all the replies. At one time I may have thought that because Toyota was a Japanese owned company, that though Toyota had a manufacturing plant here, the bulk of the corporate profits went to Japan. But in this age corporations are not loyal to any country at all, they call themselves "multi-nationals", they do whatever is in their best interest and will shuffle your job in and out of the USA or any country as it benefits them, not the employees. General Motors, Ford and Chrysler are all very good at this, destroying entire U.S. communities and cities by taking all the jobs they depend on and moving them to Mexico or China, so screw them, if they have no loyalty to the people, then people should not give a damn about them either.....
thats a tough spot they are in and it is not really their fault. They MUST outsorce to stay competitive. Building anything here is far more expensive then elsewhere and it is black and white...either they fallow the croud or fold. Id rather them outsource and show they can be as innovative and value oriented as the rest of the field then pretend to build cars americans want and eventually go belly up...again. The real blame here falls on labor policies that these companies cant afford. Thats why all teh foreign companies just assemble here in the states, it's cheaper then shipping a whole car and cheaper then fabbing the whole thing here. but thats all I have to say about that, sorry to go OT.
Toyotas induction and assimilation into NASCAR makes them pretty American to me . I loved waring a TRD hat to the Dover races the first year. Got so many dirty looks.
How my wife's 2.2L Camry is shaping up: We found some 15" Lexus wheels in a local classified for it to replace the steel wheels. Got the KYB struts on all four corners.
The engine is running great with it's new timing belt and other parts.
Going to bleed the brakes and fix cracks in the bumpers next. Also going to have to look at the trouble codes and see why the check engine light is coming on. It came on at one point and I cleared it by disconnecting the battery. It stayed out for quite a while until I drove the car 95mph down an interstate for a bit and it popped back on.
Seems like very nice practical transportation so far, and it's responsiveness and road-holding make it fun to drive. Seems very sporty to me after three decades of driving Caprice Classics.
Also going to have to look at the trouble codes and see why the check engine light is coming on. It came on at one point and I cleared it by disconnecting the battery. It stayed out for quite a while until I drove the car 95mph down an interstate for a bit and it popped back on.
Just an FYI: The CE light can also be cleared by pulling the "EFI" fuse in the fusebox under the hood. Lots easier, and you don't lose your radio presets.
Sounds like it's coming along nicely.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
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Seems like very nice practical transportation so far, and it's responsiveness and road-holding make it fun to drive. Seems very sporty to me after three decades of driving Caprice Classics."
If you drive the car very hard, you'll be surprised at how well it was engineered to perform. Despite it being a normal passenger/"family" car.
FYI.......you have a separate chamber for your differential........it holds about 2 quarts of ATF.........I would do a drain and fill on it.......I also would do a full tranny flush......and a power steering flush......if the PS fluid has never been changed I guarantee it comes out like chocolate pudding
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
I also have a 2000 with the 5sfe four-cylinder engine and I'll tell ya - I am very happy with him after nearly 2 years of ownership. The car was out of inspection and along with a new sticker the dealer replaced the leaking rear shocks with KYB's. The shocks seem to be ok. The previous owners took good care and there is virtually no rust anywhere.
There is plenty of good advice on TN; the good folks here have saved me plenty of green - all you have to give in return is your time - it can take awhile sometimes to find the correct answer/procedure/method of fixing or maintaining these cars - but they're easy to work on and maybe most of all - have fun with it!
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2000 Toyota Camry CE
Cheers!
. I loved waring a TRD hat to the Dover races the first year. Got so many dirty looks
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