Engine died after timing belt change

[KarensCamry]

Hacki guys:

A very strange thing has happened today. I changed my timing belt, which was no small feat. I started the engine, and it idled perfectly. Because it hadn't been run in at least 6 weeks, I let it idle on the driveway for 30 minutes or so. When I came out to put in back in the garage, I found that the engine had died, and it wouldn't start. I am wondering if the timing belt slipped? Would slippage cause it to die like that and not start? My car has 190,000 miles on it. Any chance the fuel filter has clogged because the car sat idle for so long? I have never changed it. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!!

Karen

[bolink654]

What year? 4 or 6 cylinder? Automatic transmission?

I have a 98 4cyl automatic. I changed the timing belt at water pump at about 160k. I used the cheapest one oriellys carried... a couple months and 3,000 miles later as we pulled out of the driveway the car died. Turned out that cheap belt had stretched - it was probably 1/4" longer than the one that came off. I researched belts and decided to buy a gates brand. 45k later and no problems.

It could also be (i dunno about the 6 cyl though) that the tension was not set right on that manual tensioner, that caused it to skip.

But yes, if it skipped enough, it would not start. I know they will run if they have slipped 2 teeth - but with less power and fuel mileage. I'd assume it'd take 4 teeth or more to make it not start. I think mine skipped about 5 teeth when it died.

I got lucky - i made extra timing marks at the top of the cam sprocket, so I was able to line it up and just pry the cover back a bit and know that it had skipped.

[JohnGD]

First measure the battery voltage. Let's make sure the alternator was properly charging it while the engine ran for 30 minutes.

Then double check the timing belt (tension and timing marks).

[Zembonez]

Nowhere near enough information in the original post for us to make an educated guess. Maybe it ran out of gas?

[fenixus]

too early to tell, need more info. check the battery voltage and make sure it gets the charge (could be a loose alternator belt too!), then make sure there is fuel and air inlet is not restricted. lastly double-check the timing marks if they can still align (should on 5s-fe).

[dc_98_cam]

A discharged battery sounds like a possibility.
If the terminal clamps that go on the battery have been sitting loose for a while, they could possibly develop a film or resistive layer....which would inhibit charging current from the alternator.
You need to get an actual wire brush, and clean the terminals and the battery connection points. Battery connections have to be meticulously clean, and tight.

[KarensCamry]

Guys: thank you so much for your replies. I have a 1994, 4 cylinder manual transmission. This is the hardest repair I have ever done, and I'm really grateful to all you guys who have helped me through this in my earlier post. I will check to see if the battery is being charged, though I am not sure how to go about doing that. The alternator belt is tight. I will check the battery posts too.

With respect to the timing belt, I was a little concerned about slack on the tension side of the belt, but I couldn't get it tighter without causing the crankshaft pulley to move off top dead center. With the belt on, I could depress it at least half an inch with my finger on the long belt run between the water pump and the camshaft gear. The tension side was tighter.

Thanks!!!!

Karen

[ajkalian]

Originally Posted by KarensCamry

I will check to see if the battery is being charged, though I am not sure how to go about doing that. The alternator belt is tight. I will check the battery posts too.

Get yourself one of these. You want to see 12.6 volts at the battery and maybe 13.6 when the car is running. Check the alternator with this voltmeter as well. If it's putting out anything less than 12 volts and it doesn't change when you rev the engine, the alternator is probably bad.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html


If you want the el cheapo deluxe version with the backlit display get this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-92020.html


.

[Mister_Perkins]

Your tension on the belt should be between the water pump and the camshaft pulley. You should have some slack between the camshaft and crankshaft. Sounds like it skipped teeth. I would pull the cover off and put the motor at tdc and make sure it's still lined up.


As long as your battery is charged!

[fenixus]

The Timing belt on gen4 camry should be tightened down in a little different than gen3 way.

First pull the upper timing cover off (leave the lower one on)
loosen the tensioner bolt
check/fix the timing alignment of the belt, easiest to do that around the camshaft without touching the rest of pulleys
tighten the tensioner bolt to specs (32ft-lbs)
turn the crank 2 full turns to see if the alignment marks still are spot on.

now the proper timing belt tensioning thing for gen4:
start from crank's TDC position, loosen tensioner bolt by 1/2 turn of bolt, turn the crank 1 and 7/8 times stopping it around 45 BTDC, then tighten the tensioner to specs again (32ft-lbs).
after that it should hold on to timing marks and tension should be correct IF the tensioner's spring is good (e.g. not stretched).

[KarensCamry]

Hi guys: I charged up the battery and the car still won't start. I almost catches, but not quite. So the timing belt must have slipped. I will pull the top cover and put it back on. I'll let you know how it turns out!

Thank you all!

Karen

[JohnGD]

These engines with the manual tensioners aren't the easiest to tension correctly. The belt likes to jump teeth while setting the tension, for example.

And once the tensioner is tightened down give it 2-4 revs and make sure the marks are still aligned. The 94 IIRC is tightened down at TDC. At TDC the front side (water pump/idler) should be taut; the tensioner side IIRC shouldn't show looseness but may not be as tight as the front side.

[71Corolla]

I find the best "trick" to get the timing belt on properly on these 4 cylinder engines is to line up the marks, then turn the camshaft clockwise slightly, this allows you to get the belt on. Then let the tensioner spring to take up the slack. I also pull up on the tensioner myself to tighten the belt beyond what the spring provides.

Having a belt with marks on it makes the job super easy, you don't have to worry too much about the cam lining up with the bearing cap mark perfectly, just line up the belt marks with the cam and crank gear, and that's it. Also, never attempt to turn the engine without the tensioner set tight, the belt will skip teeth right away.