3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Shame on me but by a big mistake I pulled out the receptacle that is bolted to the Air flow meter of my Camry. Actually I parcially pulled out and when I realized I shouldn`t (saw several terminals) then pushed back in... maybe a bigger mistake. After that I tried to start the engine but nothing, starts and dies a second later. What I need to know if there is any hope it can be fixed or will I have to buy a replacement. Part number is 22250-62040, couldn't upload a photo.
Thanks.
You pulled out the harness connector, or somehow damaged the meter itself? Either way getting a replacement won't be too expensive, a salvage yard or Ebay and you're good to go.
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
Shame on me but by a big mistake I pulled out the receptacle that is bolted to the Air flow meter of my Camry. Actually I parcially pulled out and when I realized I shouldn`t (saw several terminals) then pushed back in... maybe a bigger mistake. After that I tried to start the engine but nothing, starts and dies a second later. What I need to know if there is any hope it can be fixed or will I have to buy a replacement. Part number is 22250-62040, couldn't upload a photo.
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Corolla
You pulled out the harness connector, or somehow damaged the meter itself? Either way getting a replacement won't be too expensive, a salvage yard or Ebay and you're good to go.
my guess would be there's nothing wrong here at all. the locking pin on the connector is a bitch to get back on once it comes off and if it isnt on the connector aint gonna go on and the car wont run. makes sense to me.
Well, what I took off is not the harness with the wires but the part that is secured with two small screws to the meter, this is the one that I don't know if fitted back correctly inside of the meter because you can not see the terminals, I'll go back to my car tomorrow and check if there is anything else that I could have disconnected without knowing.
If you are good at soldering or know someone who is, its a simple fix. Otherwise you will need a new one. The solder connections are very easy to break, did it myself years ago.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
I mod my Camry because I am too cheap to go out and buy a real sports car
1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
The meter has what it looks like a cover on top held in position by some kind of silicone. To solder back whatever I broke is this the piece I have to remove? Also the silicone, is just for water shield?
I have to try to fix this one because it will take me at least 3 weeks to get a spare one if I don't find one in a salvage yard.
@ Luckynumber5, I found a post of yours that says "as a note do not take the screws out of that sensor you will destroy it. The cable is held in place by a small metal clip, just remove the clip and the connector slides off." Well, as I mentioned before that is exactly what I did. Today I'm going to wait for confirmation of any of you that I can remove the cover of the air flow meter to try to fix the connections.
Without being a mechanic I should have "measured twice and cut once" not the opposite.
Thanks...
Just FYI
I removed the cover... found the IC circuit and what it looked like 3 terminals broken, took it to an electronic shop, they soldered it but no success... it is hard to see where the circuit is open and/or any other damage. At the beginning the car started and died 1 or 2 seconds later (I could heard a sound like fuel running into the fuel lines) but now I don't hear anything and engine moves but it doesn't get to start.
Any advice... other than buying a new one (2-3 weeks + $450.00) or an used one (same time + $100.00 to $200.00)?
Just FYI
I removed the cover... found the IC circuit and what it looked like 3 terminals broken, took it to an electronic shop, they soldered it but no success... it is hard to see where the circuit is open and/or any other damage. At the beginning the car started and died 1 or 2 seconds later (I could heard a sound like fuel running into the fuel lines) but now I don't hear anything and engine moves but it doesn't get to start.
Any advice... other than buying a new one (2-3 weeks + $450.00) or an used one (same time + $100.00 to $200.00)?
Junkyard 50-100 bucks. I saw 3 just today when I went.
I found out that somebody has one that was used in a Toyota 4Runner, the part No. is 22250-65010 and mine is 22250-62060 both engines are the same: 3VZ-FE.
It's quite far from my place so before bring it I would like to know what are the chances that it performs the same...
Thanks
PD: I'm not in USA, USA part number for same car and engine is 22250-62040.
Thats rough man, the truck used the 3vz-e not 3vz-fe theya re single cam. I have only heard of one person trying to interchange the flapper style air meters and it worked. I do not know for sure though
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
I mod my Camry because I am too cheap to go out and buy a real sports car
1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
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