3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Here is where the stud broke off with the inlet pipe housing still attached.
Picture with the thermostat inlet pipe housing off. See broke stud in red circle.
Finally, the stud is pulled out.
Close shot of how the internal housing looks like.
The little B*^!# that broke off.
Looks like the hosing isn't welded or build on to the block. the housing is mounted to the block. you can see the copper bolt (bottom right) that mounts the housing on to the block. i only saw two bolts from the view, there may be a couple. the entire thermostat housing can be remove or replace when the intake manifold is taken off.
The housing gasket surfaces look fairly clean except for some rubber debris stuck on there. It should wipe off. Was this the first thermostat change?
Threadlockers are fine. Toyota may have used the red on there if you need heat to remove. You can also use a sealant like the Permatex link below. It's used for engine coolant temperature sensor, oil pressure sensor, other tapered thread sensors and bolts through water jackets.
I was just looking at the threads on the stud that you removed.
If I'm not mistaken, that looks like Loctite Blue that is coating the threads, which is the low torque, wrench removable version. Maybe the stud would have come loose without any further complications ...even without trying to heat it up. On the other hand, maybe not.
I think hill8570 suggested Loctite Red, but all you really need is something to keep moisture out. Ask the Dealer.
That doesn't look like a convenient work area.
About 30 years ago ... the thread sealer of choice was a product called Permatex Yellow ...A very sticky substance. It came in a big tube ... It was kind of like Elmer's Glue for metal, only yellow. ... It was water and oil resistant ... usually wrenchable. ... It stuck particularly well to hands and any clothes you were wearing ...
__________________
98 Camry LE, 2.2L, automatic
53k miles, drop in K&N A/F ... timing belt, water pump
That does look like blue on the stud, unless it's a reflection. Personally, I would stay away from the red, since that would require rairly high heat to remove, if that stud ever had to come out again. Heat that may be too high for the surrounding parts to withstand. If the dealer doesn't have any suggestions, I would go with the blue.
I thought that too when i changed the thermostat. the surface is clean. well this is the first time the thermostat is changed, in my ownership. i'm not sure if the previous owners changed it before. the old thermostat does it very worn out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD
The housing gasket surfaces look fairly clean except for some rubber debris stuck on there. It should wipe off. Was this the first thermostat change?
Threadlockers are fine. Toyota may have used the red on there if you need heat to remove. You can also use a sealant like the Permatex link below. It's used for engine coolant temperature sensor, oil pressure sensor, other tapered thread sensors and bolts through water jackets.
i went and took a close look at the broken stud. it doesn't seem to have any kind of coating. just bare metal. i had the flash on when i took that picture. sorry guys. the area is small to work on, but once you take off the entire air intake system it really open a lot of room and give you easier access to the studs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_98_cam
I was just looking at the threads on the stud that you removed.
If I'm not mistaken, that looks like Loctite Blue that is coating the threads, which is the low torque, wrench removable version. Maybe the stud would have come loose without any further complications ...even without trying to heat it up. On the other hand, maybe not.
I think hill8570 suggested Loctite Red, but all you really need is something to keep moisture out. Ask the Dealer.
That doesn't look like a convenient work area.
About 30 years ago ... the thread sealer of choice was a product called Permatex Yellow ...A very sticky substance. It came in a big tube ... It was kind of like Elmer's Glue for metal, only yellow. ... It was water and oil resistant ... usually wrenchable. ... It stuck particularly well to hands and any clothes you were wearing ...
I have a 2002 Toyota Echo and I have encountered the same problem when replacing my thermostat. I really hope the method you used works for me.
first i would try taking the broken stud out with a needle nose or clamp plier. sometime the stud can be easily remove with them. but when all else fail, the little propane torch is the answer. make sure everything (hoses, pipes) are out of the way before torching the stud. removing the air intake assembly really open up room for you too. best of luck. got more question just ask.
first i would try taking the broken stud out with a needle nose or clamp plier. sometime the stud can be easily remove with them. but when all else fail, the little propane torch is the answer. make sure everything (hoses, pipes) are out of the way before torching the stud. removing the air intake assembly really open up room for you too. best of luck. got more question just ask.
Thank you for the advice. I am going to try to remove it when I get home from work. I ordered the stud, it will be in tomorrow morning. I will update with my progress. I am keeping my fingers crossed...lol. You said turn the stud counter clockwise (left) to remove the stud...correct? Did it twist fairly easy?
Thank you for the advice. I am going to try to remove it when I get home from work. I ordered the stud, it will be in tomorrow morning. I will update with my progress. I am keeping my fingers crossed...lol. You said turn the stud counter clockwise (left) to remove the stud...correct? Did it twist fairly easy?
Yes turn the stud counterclockwise to remove it. It was fairly easy to twist it out. Didn't require much muscle in it.
Yes turn the stud counterclockwise to remove it. It was fairly easy to twist it out. Didn't require much muscle in it.
Thank you, brother. I got it out pretty easy, though I had to remove the alternator. I ended up trying to double nut it, but the nut got stuck which helped me out a lot. While trying to take the nut off, the stud came out...go figure. The Echo is so small, and a pain in the ass to work on. Here are a few pictures.
Last edited by NineDayFall75; 10-17-2011 at 08:42 PM.
I broke the upper left thermostat housing stud on my 2000 camry trying to stop leak after changing stuck-open thermostat. Wish I had searched/read this thread.
@ty**20 & Ninedayfall75:
1. Did you use some kind of sealant on the thread that goes in housing?
2. How did you finally fix the leak (was it gasket? debris?)
3. I do not see a housing gasket? Is there one in camry?
TIA
__________________
2000 Camry LE 2.2L 4-Cyl 5SFE Grey 170k miles on 12/12/12
2004 Solara Conv LE 6-Cyl Periwinkle blue 135k miles on 12/12/12
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
... timing belt, water pump
Linear Mode
