HELP! NO ONE THAT i KNOW AND TRUST, TO DO A BRAKE FLUSH!

[Mrs_Lop]

Hello All,
I have been trying to find a trusted shop to do my brake fluid flush.

My Car Info: 1997 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L 4cyl
5SFE NAP

Purchased used in late May, 2011.

In my original thread, I noted that my old shop that specializes in fluid changes, ..."didn't like to do complete brake flushes because of the chance of breaking the bleeder screws."

My new mechanic was replacing the front sway bar bushings and asked them to check the bleeder screws and get his opinion on what to do. Well, he said that the fronts are fine. The rear bleeder screws won't budge. "We'll have to mess with it," is what he actually said.

Last week I went in to talk to him about an appointment; I had discussed the possibility of using PB Blaster and then heat to loosen the screws. He said that he couldn't guarantee something like that working as you are dealing with rubber parts too. Either way, something could/would be damaged.

Weird, but I checked my original Toyota Service Manual that came with the car and I couldn't find a recommended Brake Flush anywhere for any mileage!

Questions:

If I only have him do the fronts and master cylinder what will happen?

If I want him to attempt the whole brake flush,
what parts do I need if it goes bad?

Is there any way around this dilemma?

What is the worst case scenario?

I will be leaving on my first real trip with this car to the mountain areas of New Hampshire -around 400 miles round trip. I had my front brake pads and rotors replaced in mid July.
I have had no engine lights come on or any problems with the brakes at all. Should I just let well enough alone for right now or deal with this before the trip?

Any experiences, suggestions or help would be much appreciated.

Blessings,
Mrs_Lop

[Woodyg]

Originally Posted by Mrs_Lop

Hello All,
I have been trying to find a trusted shop to do my brake fluid flush.

My Car Info: 1997 Toyota Camry LE 2.2L 4cyl
5SFE NAP

Purchased used in late May, 2011.

In my original thread, I noted that my old shop that specializes in fluid changes, ..."didn't like to do complete brake flushes because of the chance of breaking the bleeder screws."

My new mechanic was replacing the front sway bar bushings and asked them to check the bleeder screws and get his opinion on what to do. Well, he said that the fronts are fine. The rear bleeder screws won't budge. "We'll have to mess with it," is what he actually said.

Last week I went in to talk to him about an appointment; I had discussed the possibility of using PB Blaster and then heat to loosen the screws. He said that he couldn't guarantee something like that working as you are dealing with rubber parts too. Either way, something could/would be damaged.

Weird, but I checked my original Toyota Service Manual that came with the car and I couldn't find a recommended Brake Flush anywhere for any mileage!

Questions:

If I only have him do the fronts and master cylinder what will happen?

If I want him to attempt the whole brake flush,
what parts do I need if it goes bad?

Is there any way around this dilemma?

What is the worst case scenario?

I will be leaving on my first real trip with this car to the mountain areas of New Hampshire -around 400 miles round trip. I had my front brake pads and rotors replaced in mid July.
I have had no engine lights come on or any problems with the brakes at all. Should I just let well enough alone for right now or deal with this before the trip?

Any experiences, suggestions or help would be much appreciated.

Blessings,
Mrs_Lop

go buy a turkey baster and some tubing and suck the fluid out of the reservoir then replace.......do it a few times with some driving in between.......you will be all set.....if they brake the bleeders and can not get them out you will need to replace the calipers and wheel cylinders..that will not be cheap

[Zembonez]

It's very likely that one or more bleeders on a 1997 model car will be frozen. The car wasn't exactly built last week. Shops are doing you a favor by pointing this out up front rather than calling you later when you need new wheel cylinders or calipers.

By the way. Lose that horrible blue font will ya?

[Tech1984]

Brake fluid is hydoscopic. It's a vital fluid on your car that needs flushing out every once in a while.
If moisture were get into brake parts, leaks will develope.
Have the complete flush done, but be prepared to buy new wheel cylinders (which aren't expensive) on the rear brakes.
New brake parts are always a good thing anyway.
I'll bet you, you'll rest easier on that trip coming up than if you hadn't done any of the work at all.
That's my professional opinion.

[Woodyg]

If you have the WC's changed. You might as well change the shoes. The Stealership should charge $350+ IMHO the power steering system is the most neglected maintainance issue

[ajkalian]

Originally Posted by Zembonez

It's very likely that one or more bleeders on a 1997 model car will be frozen. The car wasn't exactly built last week. Shops are doing you a favor by pointing this out up front rather than calling you later when you need new wheel cylinders or calipers.

By the way. Lose that horrible blue font will ya?

^+1 to that;

I'm not answering or offering any help to anybody that shows up here, screaming boldface large colored type as if it is going to get anybody's attention.

And "Blessings".....oh please....this is a Camry automobile forum, the Bible Study forum is two doors down the hall on the left.

.

[fenixus]

^I agree, please stop using that huge bold eye popping blue font now! this is not a Sunday school, god damn it! and no need for blessings for me either, I've been to hell and back way too many times and like it my way

as for the brakes, if they haven't been flushed in 14 years then go ahead and replace the seized parts (rear drums?) along with Master Cylinder, flush and bleed the hell out of the rest and be done with it (that if front calipers are not giving any issues at all, otherwise replace them too, remanufactured units are OK, but can catch rust quickly, so consider painting them).
a word of friendly advice, if you decide to replace the rubber brake lines too, go only with OEM lines, it will save you lots of grief with aftermarket parts.

any reputable local shop should be able to do the parts replacement and brake flushing/bleeding properly, no worries, have some faith in people, even though they are different