206K mileage Camry with Oil Leaks

[Retzius]

Hi guys,

I have begun to use my wife's 97 Camry 4 cylinder for my daily commute to my new job. Her car has had a small oil leak that I have ignored and finally mustered up the courage to get it fixed.

First, I had already changed the oil pan gasket in 2007 and changed all seals (crank, oil ring, cam, oil seal) in 2010 when I changed the timing belt + water pump.

My oil leak seemed to be coming from the back of the valve cover gasket and near the distributor plug so I went ahead and changed a new oem VC gasket and sealed the distributor cap plug with RTV. I also noticed while I was changing the VC, that one nut was very loose and may have attributed to my leaks behind the VC. I torqued the 4 nuts to 30 lbs because that's what my Haynes manual said. I've been reading it should only be to 17 lbs.

I pressure washed the valve cover and engine as best I could and have not seen any more leaks. Also, replaced the tube seals for the spark plugs.

So my question is.....

Is their anything else I need to check for oil leaks? How many distributor plugs are on the VC or engine block? I only sealed one which was the driver side half moon or whatever you guys call it on here? Does the passenger side also have a plug as well? If so how do I remove it?

I was told by an auto shop that recently changed my drivers side axle (torn CV boot) that my rack and pinyon needs replacement and is leaking. I am going to try Lucas as I have done in the past before I save up money until I can get it replaced. Any help is appreciated.

Pics

Motor 97 I4


Top pic behind VC, small bolt was covered in oil, its cleaner after I pressure washed the car.


Pic behind VC, you can see how some oil was left after pressure washing.


Oil leaked here as well but after fixing the distributor cap seal I dont see any. Rust is from Pressure washing.


Area near distribtor cap seal plug, beneath it there is a lot oil on hoses and line. I haven't noticed any fresh oil leaking since replacing and RTVing the dist. cap plug seal.


Underneath Dist Cap plug

[Retzius]

Ok guys don't all reply at once

To update, its been about 4 days since I replaced the VC gasket and RTVed the distributor cap plug. I am pretty happy I am not seeing the usual spotting underneath the car. I hope it continues to stay that way and will keep monitoring it. Thanks.

[71Corolla]

Originally Posted by Retzius

Ok guys don't all reply at once

Hey I was getting around to it.

Actually I didn't see this thread until now for whatever reason. Looks like you solved the leak, it's a simple engine so not a whole lot of gaskets to go replacing. BTW, when you say you replaced the oil pan gasket, you used an actual gasket, or a liquid sealant?

[WaxonWaxStillOn]

Great job. Isn't a dry driveway an awesome sight?

Mine is a '94 4cyl, and the oil pump seal and o-ring are very common leaks, sometimes profusely from a baked and brittle o-ring seal, as well as the camshaft and front crankshaft seals. All these can be replaced when/by removing timing belt to expose them.

If you're not leaking from the timing cover area, on the far right passenger side, you're fortunate, but if you do get spotting near the rear outside corner of the oil pan, where these leaks tend to drip off of, then you might have to address this tb area.

[vincentfox]

I'd suspect transmission leaks at that age, if you are not you're lucky.

[Mister_Perkins]

keep an eye on the oil pump, and the Power Steering pump as well. They are usually the next two things to start seeping.

[Zembonez]

Originally Posted by Retzius

Ok guys don't all reply at once

Saw your thread but didn't have an answer. Hope your fix worked!

[Retzius]

Originally Posted by 71Corolla

Hey I was getting around to it.

Actually I didn't see this thread until now for whatever reason. Looks like you solved the leak, it's a simple engine so not a whole lot of gaskets to go replacing. BTW, when you say you replaced the oil pan gasket, you used an actual gasket, or a liquid sealant?

Thanks Corolla,

I am not sure...I took it to an auto machanic shop and don't know what they did. This was back in 2007.

Originally Posted by WaxonWaxStillOn

Great job. Isn't a dry driveway an awesome sight?

Mine is a '94 4cyl, and the oil pump seal and o-ring are very common leaks, sometimes profusely from a baked and brittle o-ring seal, as well as the camshaft and front crankshaft seals. All these can be replaced when/by removing timing belt to expose them.

If you're not leaking from the timing cover area, on the far right passenger side, you're fortunate, but if you do get spotting near the rear outside corner of the oil pan, where these leaks tend to drip off of, then you might have to address this tb area.

Thanks WaxonWaxStillOn,

It was a pretty sight, to see no drops I have to admit I was happy.

I changed the timing belt and water pump back in 2010 and replaced all seals with oem toyota parts including the seals you mentioned. I haven't seen any oil near the oil pan but I am going to check it out tomorrow and post some pics. Maybe I am wrong. I saw more oil on the transmission.

Originally Posted by vincentfox

I'd suspect transmission leaks at that age, if you are not you're lucky.

Vincentfox,

Transmission leaks from where? Is it a gasket? Thanks.

Originally Posted by Mister_Perkins

keep an eye on the oil pump, and the Power Steering pump as well. They are usually the next two things to start seeping.

Cool Good to know this car is getting up there in mileage but I have always maintained it and done 5k oil changes since acquiring it. I will check those pumps out as well.

Originally Posted by Zembonez

Saw your thread but didn't have an answer. Hope your fix worked!

No Worries . That's what this forum is all about, learning new things.

[JohnGD]

Originally Posted by Retzius

I also noticed while I was changing the VC, that one nut was very loose and may have attributed to my leaks behind the VC. I torqued the 4 nuts to 30 lbs because that's what my Haynes manual said. I've been reading it should only be to 17 lbs.

It's a common problem with the engine tilted backward and the poor valve cover gasket/nuts design. The newer 17 lb/ft torque is for the new VC set. But give it a check 6 months from now and see if the torque held.

Originally Posted by Retzius

I only sealed one which was the driver side half moon or whatever you guys call it on here? Does the passenger side also have a plug as well? If so how do I remove it?

There are two semi-circular (half-moon) plugs on each end of the cylinder head on the exhaust shaft. These are for machining. there is a round distributor plug on the intake driver side.

Originally Posted by Retzius

I was told by an auto shop that recently changed my drivers side axle (torn CV boot) that my rack and pinyon needs replacement and is leaking. I am going to try Lucas as I have done in the past before I save up money until I can get it replaced. Any help is appreciated.

Leaking from the tie rod boots? There are DIYs here for replacing the entire rack.

[Retzius]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

It's a common problem with the engine tilted backward and the poor valve cover gasket/nuts design. The newer 17 lb/ft torque is for the new VC set. But give it a check 6 months from now and see if the torque held.




There are two semi-circular (half-moon) plugs on each end of the cylinder head on the exhaust shaft. These are for machining. there is a round distributor plug on the intake driver side.




Leaking from the tie rod boots? There are DIYs here for replacing the entire rack.

Thanks, this forum has very good information on this car. I did not know the valve cover came loose until I changed and saw how loose the left most nut was on the passenger side was. I got a lot of oil leaks there too.

Those two semi circular (half-moon) plugs you speak of, do they need to be RTVed as well? I am assuming these are metal right? Thanks.

Tie rod boots...I will have to check that out. I saw that DIY rack and pinyon but how hard is it to replace if I have never replaced it before? How long will it take me?

Also, a little off topic but my struts/shocks need replacement, do you have any recommendation on the popular ones this forum uses and place to buy them, thanks.

[87path]

Just to chime in - I was banging my head on a leak from the rear of my valve cover for a few years on our 4cyl. This included replacing the gasket two times. Finally got great advice on this forum and rubbed a thin coat of grey RTV sealant on top of the new VC gasket on the rear side and that fixed it. Issue is due to how the engine is tilted back and the rear side needs a little bit of extra insulation to keep the oil in. Even though Toyota says the gasket is all that's needed.

[Retzius]

Originally Posted by 87path

Just to chime in - I was banging my head on a leak from the rear of my valve cover for a few years on our 4cyl. This included replacing the gasket two times. Finally got great advice on this forum and rubbed a thin coat of grey RTV sealant on top of the new VC gasket on the rear side and that fixed it. Issue is due to how the engine is tilted back and the rear side needs a little bit of extra insulation to keep the oil in. Even though Toyota says the gasket is all that's needed.

Thanks for passing along that info. 87path

I did not do this but I will keep an eye on it and it I have to open it up again I will rtv the back side because the motor is definitely tilted.

[JohnGD]

Correction: 2 semi-circular plugs. *One on each end of the cylinder head*.

Yes, the old RTV on the plugs need to be cleaned off. The surfaces wiped clean with alcohol for best adhesion. Same with the distributor plug behind the coils. RTV does age and leak. Use shop towels or paper towels to catch old RTV and don't let them fall into the cylinder head.

If you can do the timing belt and water pump and if you have the needed tools then tight access would be the only problem. Otherwise 3-4 hours.

Check Monroe QuickStruts with all new components. About $125/ea on rockauto. Check Amazon for prices too.

Originally Posted by Retzius

Thanks, this forum has very good information on this car. I did not know the valve cover came loose until I changed and saw how loose the left most nut was on the passenger side was. I got a lot of oil leaks there too.

Those two semi circular (half-moon) plugs you speak of, do they need to be RTVed as well? I am assuming these are metal right? Thanks.

Tie rod boots...I will have to check that out. I saw that DIY rack and pinyon but how hard is it to replace if I have never replaced it before? How long will it take me?

Also, a little off topic but my struts/shocks need replacement, do you have any recommendation on the popular ones this forum uses and place to buy them, thanks.

[Savio]

When you guys are talking about RTVing the Valve cover gasket and halfmoons, how much should I apply? Does it go all the way around the gasket?

For the Valve cover, do I put RTV on before placing the valve cover gasket on and then on the gasket before placing it back? (After cleaning it of course)

My mechanic mentioned that my half-moon is leaking as well. I can see all the oil seepage on the right side/driver side of the cover.