3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Is the fuel tank filler pipe hard to change? I have some pin holes from rust causing po440 code. I temporarily taped up the bad area with duct tape, cleared the code and pressure is holding ok. I drove about 400 miles and cel is still off and there is no stored codes in the computer. Ii still want to change that filler pipe myself and save some money. Anyone done this before?
Is the fuel tank filler pipe hard to change? I have some pin holes from rust causing po440 code. I temporarily taped up the bad area with duct tape, cleared the code and pressure is holding ok. I drove about 400 miles and cel is still off and there is no stored codes in the computer. Ii still want to change that filler pipe myself and save some money. Anyone done this before?
I tried to get help on this a few months back......mine was for preventive maintenance....................I posted details of my car etc.......I got no help..........they told me there are a lot of posts on the subject...........................you have not even given any details of your car........best of luck......you are going to need it around here
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
Its a 2001 Camry LE 2.2. I should have put that info in the original thread..
Quote:
Originally Posted by twodoorcamry
I did mine awhile back. Not to hard and the part was cheap.
There is a DIY in the DIY-sticky-thread at the top of this forum list.
Good luck
Like I was saying no one wants to give any details..........I looked the part up for you on rockauto.com. here is the part DORMAN Part # 577952 I have had good luck with dorman parts! search the internet for a 5% discount for rockauto. here is a link to the how to DIY: Fuel Filler Tube Replacement Procedure (GEN3) the sticky is for a gen 3 96. it is a little different then ours. It looks pretty straight forward. I think removing the bolts will be the toughest part. you should hit it with a rust penetrator a bunch of times days before hand.
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
I did mine awhile back. Not to hard and the part was cheap.
There is a DIY in the DIY-sticky-thread at the top of this forum list.
Good luck
what year was your car?
what brand and part # did you use?
where did you buy the part?
how much was the part?
where your bolts hard to get off?
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
i can tell you that for the Gen 3, you must drop the tank to replace the filler neck. that includes removing the center section of the exhaust. there are only two straps that hold the tank in place and some bolts on the neck itself that secure it to the body where the filler neck meets the body behind the fuel door. you can disconnect the fuel lines and the connector for the pump and sender from the top of the tank by removing the rear seat and removing the access cover from the floor pan.
i can tell you that for the Gen 3, you must drop the tank to replace the filler neck. that includes removing the center section of the exhaust. there are only two straps that hold the tank in place and some bolts on the neck itself that secure it to the body where the filler neck meets the body behind the fuel door. you can disconnect the fuel lines and the connector for the pump and sender from the top of the tank by removing the rear seat and removing the access cover from the floor pan.
the sticky that they have on this website for the fix does not have you dropping the tank!.........and the sticky is on a Gen 3!...........someone is wrong!
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
i read the sticky and i feel that dropping the tank is a must if you are going to do the job properly. so before you go bluntly saying i'm wrong, consider the benefits of actually dropping the tank. i dropped the tank so that i could por 15 my tank and inspect the fuel lines and floor pan underneath the tank. the amount of rust on the guy's car in the sticky indicates that other parts may be facing the same corrosion issues as the filler neck and could require attention. simply replacing the filler neck on a rusty tank may only be a band aid on a large wound. i'm not saying either way is right or wrong. dropping the tank is not 100% needed but it does give you an opportunity to assess other aspects of the tank and lines.
unless you live in the southern or western U.S. where road salt is not used, then replacing only the filler neck would be ok as the tank and other area will not be rusty.
i can tell you that for the Gen 3, you must drop the tank to replace the filler neck. that includes removing the center section of the exhaust. there are only two straps that hold the tank in place and some bolts on the neck itself that secure it to the body where the filler neck meets the body behind the fuel door. you can disconnect the fuel lines and the connector for the pump and sender from the top of the tank by removing the rear seat and removing the access cover from the floor pan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mazdaverx7
i read the sticky and i feel that dropping the tank is a must if you are going to do the job properly. so before you go bluntly saying i'm wrong, consider the benefits of actually dropping the tank. i dropped the tank so that i could por 15 my tank and inspect the fuel lines and floor pan underneath the tank. the amount of rust on the guy's car in the sticky indicates that other parts may be facing the same corrosion issues as the filler neck and could require attention. simply replacing the filler neck on a rusty tank may only be a band aid on a large wound. i'm not saying either way is right or wrong. dropping the tank is not 100% needed but it does give you an opportunity to assess other aspects of the tank and lines.
unless you live in the southern or western U.S. where road salt is not used, then replacing only the filler neck would be ok as the tank and other area will not be rusty.
*I just noticed your 1992 Camry in your sig. The Op has a 2001 he might not have the rust issue you had with your 1992
thanks for clearing that up. I did not want the OP to be confused about the procedure . I agree with you about using the por 15 and doing it right. my tank was replaced 6 years ago. I was going to por 15/chassis save my rear subframe. we can let the OP decide if he wants to drop the tank. sometimes a job like that would be out of the hands of a DIY but without dropping the tank he might be able to do it..........it always comes down to time and money.........I don't think you mentioned what year your car was and I don't think you have it in your signature......if you do I apologize for missing it. Thanks for your feedback
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
There wasn't no need for me to drop the tank. (speaking about my gen 3 here)
The DIY (yes that's the one I meant Woody) gives thorough step by step procedures, and is followed by a long string of posts of people sharing their own experiences regarding what bolts were stuck and other issues. I just figured, once you hit that DIY it's all pretty clear and there wasn't no need for me to ad extra information (answering Woody's harsh critique here ). Also, the OP wasn't asking about where to buy parts...
There wasn't no need for me to drop the tank. (speaking about my gen 3 here)
The DIY (yes that's the one I meant Woody) gives thorough step by step procedures, and is followed by a long string of posts of people sharing their own experiences regarding what bolts were stuck and other issues. I just figured, once you hit that DIY it's all pretty clear and there wasn't no need for me to ad extra information (answering Woody's harsh critique here ). Also, the OP wasn't asking about where to buy parts...
I did not mean to be too harsh but I have been on these things for a long long time and sometimes you need to be a little irascible to get peoples attention......wait till you see me on a rant about not having a good signature......it can get ugly
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2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
i didn't mention the year on my car in my post, all i mentioned was gen 3. the tank drop i did was on a 93 SE that i had a couple years back. my current 92 Camry SE is in need of a filler neck as i can see some rust bubbling... so this will be a tank drop and por 15 so that i can preserve the tank. thank you ohio and your road salt. all of my cars are not in my sig. there's simply not enough room. i have 10 cars all together, including a 2011 Sienna that i bought as my "shaggin waggon" for hauling my kids. i understand about being bold with people on forums, especially when you feel that the info they post is incorrect. i'm a forum moderator on www.rx7club.com and a site admin on www.ohiorotaries.com and on both i'll jump on people for blatantly posting the wrong info. its bad because people will follow the false advise posted and they run the risk of doing the job improperly.
I just replaced mine as well, but I did mine as I replaced my brake lines and fuel lines. Dropping the tank isn't hard and it can show you if you need to do more preventative maintenance.
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1994 Camry LE Wagon 5S-FE with 220xxx miles.
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). Also, the OP wasn't asking about where to buy parts...
95 Camry
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