3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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On the highway driving home from a get together with some friends and i was slowing down for the off-ramp and i shifted out of 5th gear and lost everything. shifter didnt move and there was a horrible metallic sound from the front of the car. the motor is fine. i've got 3rd and 4th when trying to shift on the thransmission but i cant move the linkage over to 1/2 or 5/R . its locked up tight. i'm doubting its a cable but i know both of mine are shit anyway. i think i possibly broke a synchro for 5th gear. so i got a tow back home and i just drained the gear oil. i see little flakes in the oil and i know thats not from the synthetic oil.
just so pissed right now.................................:hea dbang::hea dbang:
You might be better off just getting a replacement transmission from a Solara.
Transmission rebuilds for the e153 run roughly $550.
I've seen non-lsd e153's on mr2oc for $150.
a replacement trans is a gamble but if the person is trustworthy then it will be the cheaper route. it will also give you a chance to replace your faulty shifter cables.
what i would do before replacing the trans is pull the cables off of the trans and attempt to shift the trans through the gears. your issue sounds like a bound linkage more so than a faulty trans. when the synchronizers fail, you will still be able to shift. the gears will grind when shifting though. when a shift fork gets bent you often will not have a gear seemingly present. you can shift into the gear of your choice, but if the shift fork is bent, you will not be able to select that gear. not being able to move the shifter indicates faulty cable to me. check those first.
what i would do before replacing the trans is pull the cables off of the trans and attempt to shift the trans through the gears. your issue sounds like a bound linkage more so than a faulty trans. when the synchronizers fail, you will still be able to shift. the gears will grind when shifting though. when a shift fork gets bent you often will not have a gear seemingly present. you can shift into the gear of your choice, but if the shift fork is bent, you will not be able to select that gear. not being able to move the shifter indicates faulty cable to me. check those first.
the selecting ballcrank isnt moving side to side. the shift shaft is moving in and out.
dropping the trans isn't a bad job. takes about a day to do and the help of a friend. people always fear the subframe drop and thats understandable. its a pretty straightforward job though really.
isnt the shift fork to apply pressure on the pressure plate to allow the clutch to spin freely?
That sucks bro... Hopefully you can get her back on the road ASAP!
Edit: Nvm.. your talking about the internal shift forks. maa bad
yea i got hit with a few blows here: Busted or broken syncro and a bunch of other shit is broken inside. I let the gear oil i drained sit over night and all day today and after disposing of it the bottom of the pan is very very shinny. lots of gold and silver (eeeh). next are my other problems: inspection is up in september. Registration for PA needs to be done ASAP. it expires the 4th. FML. well i can say i broke an E series tranny without boost. maybe my torque was just too much to handle
Fluky failures are always a possibility in any car. I doubt you overloaded the transmission to cause the failure. My guess would be that some tiny $2.00 piece of your internal shift linkage had a manufacturing flaw in it and let go when you down-shifted, mixing up gears and synchros, busting things up. My old Mada 626 Turbo's 5spd, was adapted from the RX-7 Turbo. It had an internal detent (ball and springy thing) in 5th gear, that had a tendancy to fail and not hold the RX-7's in gear under boost. My 12psi, 626 turbo, used to knock it out regularly. Even after a rebuild it would do it. That was a factory flaw that as far as I know Mazda never really made a fix for. Manual transmissions are generally pretty tough and well designed, but dumb stuff can happen, don't be discouraged enough to give up on that great car!
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Fluky failures are always a possibility in any car. I doubt you overloaded the transmission to cause the failure. My guess would be that some tiny $2.00 piece of your internal shift linkage had a manufacturing flaw in it and let go when you down-shifted, mixing up gears and synchros, busting things up. My old Mada 626 Turbo's 5spd, was adapted from the RX-7 Turbo. It had an internal detent (ball and springy thing) in 5th gear, that had a tendancy to fail and not hold the RX-7's in gear under boost. My 12psi, 626 turbo, used to knock it out regularly. Even after a rebuild it would do it. That was a factory flaw that as far as I know Mazda never really made a fix for. Manual transmissions are generally pretty tough and well designed, but dumb stuff can happen, don't be discouraged enough to give up on that great car!
A manufacturing defect after almost 20 years? IDK but i've seen freakier things. If i can get parts, she'll say but if i cant, well..... i'll consider parting it out.
Transmission rebuilds for the e153 run roughly $550.
How? I priced the parts for rebuilding a C59 and it's 4 digits.
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How? I priced the parts for rebuilding a C59 and it's 4 digits.
Different transmission.
I called about 5 different places in my area and that's the MOST it cost to rebuild, $450 being the cheapest.
I know a mechanic that works at Toyota and paid him $250.
Oh yeah, ~8 labor hours to rebuild.
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