1995 Camry 2.2l intermittantly shuts off - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 09-04-2011, 12:33 PM
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Unhappy 1995 Camry 2.2l intermittantly shuts off

Hi,

I'm new to your site and hope someone can help me with a 1995 Camry 2.2l that will sometimes shut off after it gets hot at idle. I replaced the whole distributor assembly, new plugs, new plug wires, new distributor cap, and rotor. It will start to buck ever so slightly and as soon as I come to a stop the motor hesitates and then shuts off. After I let it cool for about 30-45 minutes it will start and as long as I keep it revved up it will stay running. Does anyone else have any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks,
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#2 Old 09-04-2011, 01:07 PM
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Check all yer grounds. Remove and clean. Don't make assumptions.

Example...

Click the button if you don't mind.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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#3 Old 09-04-2011, 02:19 PM
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Ok I just removed all the grounds I could find, and cleaned them with some fine sand paper took the car for a test drive to get it up to running temp. it still shuts off at idle.
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#4 Old 09-04-2011, 02:21 PM
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Is it a slow death like it's struggling for fuel or air? Or is it fine one second and then off the next?

1994 Camry LE Wagon 5S-FE with 220xxx miles.
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#5 Old 09-04-2011, 02:34 PM
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Any Check Engine Light? Have you checked and cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve? Typically, IAC will be rough idle or not idling at all. If you crack the throttle ever so slightly, it will keep the car running. Does this describe what you're doing?

DIY removal & cleaning of IAC

If you are too lazy, you might want to try AMSOil's Power Foam. It does a pretty good job....just make sure you do it after your engine has been used and while it's warmed up.

Any other unusual happenings? Slow acceleration, rough running? Or does it happen only at idle?
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#6 Old 09-04-2011, 03:30 PM
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It is fine one minute then it just shuts off, the check engine light comes on right when it happens. If I keep it revved above idle say around 2000 rpms it will stay running, but if I let it drop to idle speed it will just shut off. It seems to run ok at anything above idle. I'll take a look at the IAC, but when it does happen it won't start up even if I open the throttle until it cools off first.
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#7 Old 09-05-2011, 12:21 PM
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Does the 1995 2.2L Camry have an ODBII port? You might want to see if you can git a computer diagnostic setup on it and see what the sensors/ECU is reporting. AutoTap or AutoEnginuity are some choices to look at. There are some products that will interface with yer smartphone but I'm not sure what capabilites they have. Data logging would be a good thing to have as you won't have to keep yer eyes on the display while driving/testing.

Another thing to do is do a smoke test fer possible vacuum leaks...they are the bane of problems. Find a shop that has a smoke machine and knows how to use it. Buying one might be out of yer price range but it might be something you could consider.

Do a quick test on yer engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor (not the gauge one...but the one the ECU uses). Use of a multimeter is required...

Shoot some piccies/video of the engine bay and when the engine dies. It could reveal a few things yer not telling us. A picture is worth a thousand words...a video is priceless!

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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#8 Old 09-05-2011, 02:44 PM
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You need to find out what CEL is telling you. If you don't have OBDII like my 95 2.2L, get a little piece of wire and do the following:

1. Run the engine til CEL comes on
2. Short the TE1 and E1 together at the diagnostic port...do not short or touch anything else. There are 2 diag ports in a 95 without OBDII; one is in the hood on the passenger side (from the hood looking towards the back of the car, it's on the passenger side, left of the engine) - if it's the right one, the cap will have TE1, TE2, OX1,OX2, etc. It's black color and point upright. Follow which pins are TE1 and TE1. The other one is under the steering column above the pedal (gray color)....You can open the cap and find the pin out label there.
3. Once shorted, your car should rev a little higher for 5 seconds and go back to idle with "O/D off" flashing.
4. After 5 sec, your CEL will blink in code. It will keep repeating the code(s) then long pause. For an example, 72 & 51 will blink 7 times, short pause, 2 times, medium pause, 5 times, short pause, 1 time, LONG pause, then repeat again 7 times, etc.

Let us know the code....then we will have more clue as what's going on.

Last edited by toovira; 09-05-2011 at 02:45 PM.
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#9 Old 09-06-2011, 10:38 PM
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yes, replace the coolant temp. sensor!!!
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#10 Old 09-07-2011, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icoben View Post
yes, replace the coolant temp. sensor!!!
Since it's rather expensive, testing it would be prudent in this case. You'll need to use a repair manual to locate and see what the resistance range of the ECT at temperature. If it's out of range, you can replace it.

Here's the part number from www.toyodiy.com fer a 2001 Camry 4 cylinder...

OEM Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
8942235010 $65.48 $0.00 $48.03

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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#11 Old 09-07-2011, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamZipPow View Post
Since it's rather expensive, testing it would be prudent in this case. You'll need to use a repair manual to locate and see what the resistance range of the ECT at temperature. If it's out of range, you can replace it.

Here's the part number from www.toyodiy.com fer a 2001 Camry 4 cylinder...

OEM Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
8942235010 $65.48 $0.00 $48.03
I believe it is just about $20........
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#12 Old 09-08-2011, 12:07 AM
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I believe it is just about $20........
Yer thinking of the instrument cluster gauge temperature gauge sender...should only have one pin in the connector.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=4748

The one I'm talking about is the Engine Coolant Sensor that the ECU uses...that's gonna be well over $40. This one should have two pins in the connector.

These are NOT interchangeable with each other!!

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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#13 Old 09-08-2011, 02:37 AM
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yeah, in other words (per FSM) the ECT for EFI, it's around $50 from online dealers.


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#14 Old 09-24-2011, 04:22 AM
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After cleaning the throttle body and the IAC valve I discovered it was the solenoid that controls the IAC valve. I guess when the motor got hot it cause the windings in the solenoid to break down. I was able to find a whole throttle body with the IAC valve and throttle position sensor for $45.00. The motor now runs like a top and it actually idles smoother.
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