No Spark. Replaced a LOT and still nothing. Ideas plz?

[latinflex01]

Hey fellas.

1992 Toyota Camry 2.2 4 cyl.

Car drove me to best buy. When i came back and tried to turn it on nothing but it did and does turn over. I tested spark first and nothing. 2 months ago i rebuilt the distributor with new wires, cap, rotor, and coil (also new fuel filter) and voila car work 2 months ago.

Now it's again giving me issues but worse. So it turns over, and does light. I took back and swapped out all new rebuild stuff with warranties (new coil, cap, rotor and took igniter (ignition control module) in to be tested at autozone. They said it was bad so i replaced the igniter as well (was hoping that would do the trick). Still nothing. Looked at fuses and the AM2 fuse was blown (if you're gonna break down, break down in front of BEST BUY like i did and the guy at the car audio hooked me up with a 30 fuse). Still nothing.

IDEAS PLZ! I'm dying here. ready to take a jack hammer or the jaws of life to my car. I'm literally at a stand still and perplexed. ECU i guess is next but how do i test that without spending another 300

thx

[toovira]

Did CEL come on? If so, read the code by shorting TE1 and E1. I'm not sure how you can test the igniter (I know the FSM shows how, but it's a circuit....resistance is not always proper to test a circuit).

You have effectively rebuilt the distributor. So let's leave that out. Have you check the resistance of the plugs and investigate the condition of the plugs?

Measure the resistance of everything. Check and clean every ground. Your AM2 is blown...so check the harness from ECU to igniter to the primary and secondary of the coil. So that will check continuity.

Now test for isolation. This is opposite of continuity. Disconnect every component in ignition system and check for continuity against ground and 12V. For floating wire (wire that connects 2 components and nothing else, such as from ECU to igniter).

AM2 deals is ignition system's fuse. I would remove the distributor and measure every single terminal for continuity against the housing (GND). AM2 goes to ignition switch, then one pin of igniter and one pin of the ignition coil. Check your ignition switch too, you may have a bad one.

If you don't have the service manual, get one, because you'll need the schematic.

[latinflex01]

Originally Posted by toovira

Did CEL come on? If so, read the code by shorting TE1 and E1. I'm not sure how you can test the igniter (I know the FSM shows how, but it's a circuit....resistance is not always proper to test a circuit).

You have effectively rebuilt the distributor. So let's leave that out. Have you check the resistance of the plugs and investigate the condition of the plugs?

Measure the resistance of everything. Check and clean every ground. Your AM2 is blown...so check the harness from ECU to igniter to the primary and secondary of the coil. So that will check continuity.

Now test for isolation. This is opposite of continuity. Disconnect every component in ignition system and check for continuity against ground and 12V. For floating wire (wire that connects 2 components and nothing else, such as from ECU to igniter).

AM2 deals is ignition system's fuse. I would remove the distributor and measure every single terminal for continuity against the housing (GND). AM2 goes to ignition switch, then one pin of igniter and one pin of the ignition coil. Check your ignition switch too, you may have a bad one.

If you don't have the service manual, get one, because you'll need the schematic.

Currently the am2 keeps blowing so I feel like I'm isolating this. Penny for ur thoughts

[dc_98_cam]

+1 on what toovira said regarding the AM2 fuse ... maybe that is a possible clue to the problem.

The igniter will have two wires that are colored white with a red stripe.
With the ignition turned to ON, one of the W/R wires should have about 12V on it ... check this with a meter or test light. This wire might have a short in it to chassis ground, and be the main problem. ... Probably check this first ...

The other white/red wire going into the igniter is from the ECU, and will only have short pulses on it ... spark confirmation ... probably need a scope for that.

To reiterate, can you find the white wire with a red stripe going into the igniter and verify that it has 12V, or is maybe shorted to ground someplace?

[latinflex01]

Appreciate the thoughts. My netbook died on me out there so i had to come back to the apt real quick to retreat and regroup. Well, i just looked up more details and it's possible it could be the condenser inside the distributor that is shorting the AM2 fuse out? Is that easily replaceable or should i just replace the whole distributor (cheaper than ECU is how i see it).

I did find the red stripe but didn't mess with it cuz lost the netbook and just decided to regroup recharge and form a plan of attack for the next trip. I pulled off the engine main relay cuz it's buzzing so brought it with me to test it? (is that possible and how so). I'd just put the key on ON (not crank it all the way) and it would short the AM2 immediately. but the MAIN relay would spaz (click) a lil so brought it

[toovira]

So after AM2, the wire goes to ignition switch. After ignition switch, it goes to the igniter and ignition coil (as mentioned).

Bring a few correctly rated fuses with you (30A?). Disconnect the ignition coil connector (on the distributor - I assume since you literally rebuilt the distributor, you know which connector it is) and disconnect the igniter. Put a new fuse in and turn the ignition key to on, then see if she blows.

If she blows, you probably have bad ignition key switch or harness issue.....since now after AM2 fuse, it's only ignition key switch and to nothing else.

If she didn't, then reconnect one component at the time and repeat procedure. No offense, but since you rebuilt the distributor (and this was the last "change").....I would probably say the chance of bad igniter is probably less. So I would connect the igniter....then turn the key to on. If she blows, then something is going on with igniter.

Then disconnect the igniter....and connect the ignition coil connector.....turn the key to on. If she blows, then it's the disty. If she doesn't, connect both - on a second thought...this will surely blow the fuse.

Past AM2 fuse, there are only 2 components..you're lucky that the circuit is simple. I would also check for 12V at igniter (forgot what pin) and 12V at one of the ignition coil pin (forgot which)......given that you can disconnect the igniter and distributor and turn the key to on without blowing the fuse. Make sense?

I probably don't need to state the obvious, but there's a short in your ignition system somewhere.....physically inspect the wires and connector pins. And during these tests, DO NOT let the connector touch the chassis.

[toovira]

There is no direct connection to the ECU from AM2 fuse per se. Hence, no high power going directly to ECU (but not to say impossible). So I wouldn't be too concerned with the ECU being bad......in general, they are pretty resilient.

[toovira]

By the way, bring the old "bad" igniter with you and swap it out too (should the igniter blows AM2)....wont hurt.

[latinflex01]

So check this. I replaced the Noise suppressor inside the distributor (after research here and google) and yep...it was blown/melted and shorting stuff out. I'm hoping it shorted out the igniter cuz that sucks to have paid 200 on a 4 dollar melted part lol. Need the igniter tho don't we?

Apparently i rebuilt the distributor around 90 % lol. Not just the coil but more :p

Well everyone keep an eye out on that cuz it's also something recurring with foreign cars. Just over time (my car has 200k+ miles on it) it's so hot in there it'll blow sooner or later.

Cheers for all the help everyone.

PS-only side effect is my main engine relay was clicking so i took it apart and cleaned it off so it wouldn't stick anymore but putting it back in now turns the radiator fan on completely even with the car off. Ordered a new relay to replace it so i'll let you know if that does the trick unless someone knows what's up with that.

thx

[dc_98_cam]

'Noise suppressor inside the distributor' ... glad to see that you finally tracked it down.