Terrible Gas Mileage, Long Starts, and other issues.

[mgartner0622]

Hello everyone,
Well, until about two days ago, after all the work I did on my car from the advice here, it was running like new, and I couldn't have been happier.
Although, starting last Friday, i've been getting absolutely terrible gas mileage, about 210 miles to a full tank of gas. This is driving super economically, and usually with just the fan on and no A/C.
The same time these issues happened, I checked my spark plugs, as when I changed my valve cover gasket last month I noted that the far driver's side spark plug tube had quite a bit of oil in it. When I checked on friday, it was basically filled to the top with oil. I removed as much as I could, then removed the spark plug, letting the oil drain down into the tube.
As I expected, this led to lots of smoke... but not blue as I was expecting... lots os white, and it kept going for two days, especially at higher RPMs (4k or above)
Also, after I changed my valve cover gasket, I had no more blue smoke at startup. After Friday, there is a ton whenever I start my car after it has been sitting for more then 6 hours or so. The car also takes around 10 seconds of cranking to start, and I have to have my foot on the gas to help. I am 110% sure the spark plugs are good.

On a side note, my electrical system also started going haywire on the same day, fast flashing blinkers and such, but I doubt it's related.
Does anyone have any advice?
Thanks!

[mgartner0622]

Please excuse the duplicate threads! I have no idea how that happened...

[fenixus]

any trouble codes?

[mgartner0622]

Originally Posted by fenixus

any trouble codes?

That's the problem... there are absolutely no codes.. I really don't understand this. On paper, the engine should be running fine, as there's no codes, no leaks, and nothing visibly wrong with it. Spark plugs, timing belt and all fluids are new or recent.

I ran into another issue today... occasionally I lose all brake pressure. The fluid and brakes themselves are fine (well the level at least, the fluid is original) but the car will just randomly lose pressure and the pedal will go to the floor. Any suggestions? It's a good thing my e-bake is nice and tight as I had to use it to not be killed in intersections multiple times today.

[fenixus]

sounds like you've got a few issues over there...

as per oil in spark plug tube, most likely the rubber seal over it is shot and leaking the oil like hell into the tube from the top ... or the tube itself got loosened in engine head and leaks oil from bottom... just since you touched spark plugs some time ago, make sure they are tightened to specs (13ft-lbs per specs, or 18ft-lbs if using anti-seize), is it possible that the spark plug is loose?

replace the 4 tube nut seals, they sit right under the 30mm nuts (17ft-lbs) or go ahead and replace the valve cover gasket too at same time if you have any leaks (e.g. on rear of engine). very easy to do.

as per loosing brake pedal pressure ... prepare to replace the brake Master Cylinder man, and better do it fast. since you've bought the car you noticed the brake pedal sinking and now occasionally going to floor. I see it this way, the primary cup seal in Master Cylinder was failed since day one, now you are probably seeing the secondary cup seal failing as we speak. replace the MC before it gets you killed.
on a side note, that's what I would expect from brake system with original (13 years old) fluid which pretty much consists of at least 25% water (collecting 2% per year if not more...)

now, the last thing, white smoke on start up ... that usually means moisture, water or coolant... or carbon deposits burning off (e.g. after using cleaner sprays)... hopefully it's not a sign of a blown Head Gasket ... how is the motor oil looking like on a dipstick? anything like a milky shake from McDonalds? any buttery residue under the oil filler cap? coolant level dropping significantly over night?

[mgartner0622]

Originally Posted by fenixus

sounds like you've got a few issues over there...

as per oil in spark plug tube, most likely the rubber seal over it is shot and leaking the oil like hell into the tube from the top ... or the tube itself got loosened in engine head and leaks oil from bottom... just since you touched spark plugs some time ago, make sure they are tightened to specs (13ft-lbs per specs, or 18ft-lbs if using anti-seize), is it possible that the spark plug is loose?

replace the 4 tube nut seals, they sit right under the 30mm nuts (17ft-lbs) or go ahead and replace the valve cover gasket too at same time if you have any leaks (e.g. on rear of engine). very easy to do.

as per loosing brake pedal pressure ... prepare to replace the brake Master Cylinder man, and better do it fast. since you've bought the car you noticed the brake pedal sinking and now occasionally going to floor. I see it this way, the primary cup seal in Master Cylinder was failed since day one, now you are probably seeing the secondary cup seal failing as we speak. replace the MC before it gets you killed.
on a side note, that's what I would expect from brake system with original (13 years old) fluid which pretty much consists of at least 25% water (collecting 2% per year if not more...)

now, the last thing, white smoke on start up ... that usually means moisture, water or coolant... or carbon deposits burning off (e.g. after using cleaner sprays)... hopefully it's not a sign of a blown Head Gasket ... how is the motor oil looking like on a dipstick? anything like a milky shake from McDonalds? any buttery residue under the oil filler cap? coolant level dropping significantly over night?

I already replaced the valve cover gasket and the spark plug tube seals as well. I am sure they are good as I did it twice just to make sure it was not this, as I suspected it originally.
To be honest, the car has been in my family since it was new, (And had no maintenance besides tires and oil till I got the car) The brake pedal has behaved like this for as long as I remember, you pretty much have to put your foot to the floor to stop. In order to do a normal stop (Think red light 700ft away) before I had any issues, the pedal would go probably about .5cm away from the floor before the brakes would kick on. I could never do a panic stop in this car, I always blamed it on the rear drum brakes.

I have not used any cleaning sprays in terms of the white smoke. I change the oil every 3k miles (myself) and it comes out looking pretty much how I put it in, a nice golden yellow.
...Now that you mention it, it does eat through quite a bit of coolant, probably about 2 cups or so a month. It started doing this a few months ago, and I was never bothered by it, I just refill it when the tank is empty.
Thanks for your help

[fenixus]

rear drums have nothing to do with your problem. in fact I have rear drums on 5s-fe and that car can stop on a dime if I want it to (think of 10-15ft from 30mph).
I'm telling you, replace the MC or you will get yourself (or somebody else) killed. in my state your car would be rejected during bi-annual inspection even though they no longer do safety checks on passenger cars (what a shame), they wouldn't allow the car with no brakes to drive in this state.

you may have a blown HG. test the engine cylinders compression and then do a cooling system pressure test to see if leak is external or internal.

Originally Posted by mgartner0622

I already replaced the valve cover gasket and the spark plug tube seals as well. I am sure they are good as I did it twice just to make sure it was not this, as I suspected it originally.
To be honest, the car has been in my family since it was new, (And had no maintenance besides tires and oil till I got the car) The brake pedal has behaved like this for as long as I remember, you pretty much have to put your foot to the floor to stop. In order to do a normal stop (Think red light 700ft away) before I had any issues, the pedal would go probably about .5cm away from the floor before the brakes would kick on. I could never do a panic stop in this car, I always blamed it on the rear drum brakes.

I have not used any cleaning sprays in terms of the white smoke. I change the oil every 3k miles (myself) and it comes out looking pretty much how I put it in, a nice golden yellow.
...Now that you mention it, it does eat through quite a bit of coolant, probably about 2 cups or so a month. It started doing this a few months ago, and I was never bothered by it, I just refill it when the tank is empty.
Thanks for your help

[mgartner0622]

Originally Posted by fenixus

rear drums have nothing to do with your problem. in fact I have rear drums on 5s-fe and that car can stop on a dime if I want it to (think of 10-15ft from 30mph).
I'm telling you, replace the MC or you will get yourself (or somebody else) killed. in my state your car would be rejected during bi-annual inspection even though they no longer do safety checks on passenger cars (what a shame), they wouldn't allow the car with no brakes to drive in this state.

you may have a blown HG. test the engine cylinders compression and then do a cooling system pressure test to see if leak is external or internal.

Thanks, i'll get the head gasket and master cylinder checked out.. hopefully it doesn't run too much.
Thanks again for the info.

[mgartner0622]

Well, the problem with the brakes has been solved, with a fluid flush and refill with some nice toyota brake fluid.
The old fluid was black and very watery, so it lost a lot of its power and was probably having an adverse affect on the brake tubes and master cylinder.

[fenixus]

^ if fluid was black and watery then expect MC failure soon, no kidding, the piston must be totally rusted and cup seals destroyed. your calipers might be damaged internally too.

besides, it's a good idea to use a Low Moisture Activity brake fluids like fully synthetic Valvoline DOT3&4 or Castrol GT LMA.
factory toyota brake fluid is regular dino DOT3.