3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
So, my car is stuck in park. I have researched the issue and I'm looking for some input on which parts to go for, seeing if i can save some time and money with your help.
here's the symptoms
The tail lights all work. but the brake lights do not work.
the brake light fuse (coin tray) is good.
The tail light "module" (little yellow box in trunk) appears to be fine and nothing burnt out, i took it apart.
The car got stuck in park on like three ocations but would go shift after about 30 secs of wiggling. on each occation the problem was getting the release button on the stick to go in, it wouldn't go in.
then it got stuck permanently, again not being able to depress the release button. I can use the bypass thing on the side of the shifter using the tip of my key to get it in to N, start it up and then drive fine going to D and R and back in to P (and then it gets stuck again)
the car is a 94 A/T 2.2
I would go for replacing the brake light switch as the next step. Unless you guys have some better advice for where to start.
It seems from previous threads that a break light switch failiure is often indicated by a blown break light fuse... but maybe not always...?
(a) Check that there is continuity between terminal and
switch body with the switch ON (switch pin released).
(b) Check that there is no continuity between terminal
and switch body with the switch OFF (switch pin
pushed in).
If operation is not as specified, replace the switch or
So, my car is stuck in park. I have researched the issue and I'm looking for some input on which parts to go for, seeing if i can save some time and money with your help.
here's the symptoms
The tail lights all work. but the brake lights do not work.
the brake light fuse (coin tray) is good.
The tail light "module" (little yellow box in trunk) appears to be fine and nothing burnt out, i took it apart.
The car got stuck in park on like three ocations but would go shift after about 30 secs of wiggling. on each occation the problem was getting the release button on the stick to go in, it wouldn't go in.
then it got stuck permanently, again not being able to depress the release button. I can use the bypass thing on the side of the shifter using the tip of my key to get it in to N, start it up and then drive fine going to D and R and back in to P (and then it gets stuck again)
the car is a 94 A/T 2.2
I would go for replacing the brake light switch as the next step. Unless you guys have some better advice for where to start.
It seems from previous threads that a break light switch failiure is often indicated by a blown break light fuse... but maybe not always...?
Funny, I just came across this problem myself!
My answer? 1st, check the fuses again, they will probably look fine, like mine did. Then really shove them in firmly, then pull it out and do it again. Then (now that I'm thinking more about it), maybe put a litle dialectric grease on it and try again. Finally, just replace the fuse. (I seem to remember a 20A one, not a 7.5A).
Maybe its just my bad luck, but I pulled two brake light switchs from the PnP, and they didn't work, then I got ticked off and started trying new fuses, and I'll be darned if the thing didn't work like a charm on my OE brake light switch. BTW: Brake light switches are silly expensive from Toyota ($100), and about $60 from NAPA here.
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Domesticon Prime
93' LE V-6, 303K Km., fully optioned including Leather Interior. ES300 rear discs, twin piston front calipers, Depo Chromes with HID projectors, 17" OZ' summer's, 96 corner lights, MAF, timing, exhaust and intake mods, 2001 Toyota/JBL sound, + more and always more coming.
(a) Check that there is continuity between terminal and
switch body with the switch ON (switch pin released).
(b) Check that there is no continuity between terminal
and switch body with the switch OFF (switch pin
pushed in).
If operation is not as specified, replace the switch or
inspect ground point.
Good call checking continuity. I had none in either position. It's actually between the two larger pegs that you check on my model (type with cruise control).
New switch and now I have a working shifter AND working brake lights!
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95 Camry
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BTW: Brake light switches are silly expensive from Toyota ($100), and about $60 from NAPA here.
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