Keyless entry remote does not work. Need help

[solarapimpster]

Hey guys this is my first post. I own a 1999 solara and i bought it used which came with a keyless remote that does not lock and unlock my car. I opened the remote and tested the battery along with the circuit with a voltmeter and confirmed that it is getting power but not sure if it is actually sending the signal. I tried reprogramming it to my car and still nothing. Could this be an issue with the receiving module in my car or directly with the remote? Also is there is any other inexpensive way of testing this? Thanks for you help guys!

[fenixus]

can you post the pic of front and back side of your keyless entry or alarm remote?
I can help you with that, but I need to know what you have over there.

there are several options for solaras, including both factory and dealer installed alarms (or keyless entry systems) and aftermarket solutions.

[TedL]

Check the FCC Id on the remote and the car unit.

[solarapimpster]

the FCC Id is GQ43VT14T and it seems to match the car. here are the pictures:

[fenixus]

^ that is the factory installed alarm remote key fob. I have the same one on 2002 V6 SLE.

I bought my remotes from ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=GQ43VT...d=263987963618

the programming instructions are here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=126305

http://www.programyourremote.com/cla...se.asp?cid=286

[solarapimpster]

hmm yeah i might just buy a new one and see what happens. sucks that i already have one but cant figure out whats wrong with it :/

[TedL]

Take the time to make sure the FCC IDs coordinate. You say that you tried programming it to your vehicle, but it doesn't work. Did you get the confirmation that it registered? System could be at max of (usually ) four. Try clearing all fob registrations from the receiver, then adding your transmitter.

Testing a battery's voltage is not a good measure of it's power output. Depleated batteries generally still show nominal voltage with no load. Try a new (or swap with a working fob form another vehicle) battery, which often can be had for a buck. I get ten for $5, name brand, fresh dates, delivered, off ebay.

Clean the rubber membrane. Make sure that the battery # is correct. 2016, 2025 and 2032 are the same diameter, but different thicknesses. All commonly used in car fobs, but too thin can mean no contact. Some parts places have battery testers where you point the fob at it and it measure signal strength. Supplied by battery manufacturers, they tend to say "bad" when still functional. But if it says "good", your battery definitely is.

[solarapimpster]

cleaned it, replaced the battery several times, took one from a working fob and still nothing. can't figure out how to reset the module, i saw somewhere if i ground the obdII that will reset it but not sure exactly how. i found a forum with some one with the exact same problem as me except he has a tahoe http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14846. He tried everything just as i did and he found that his problem was his key fob reciever wire was pinched between the dash and the front of the vehicle. I might have that very same problem. Also i found that replacing the battery can reset the receiver which the previous owner of my car mentioned he did but if that was the case i should still be able to reprogram it which i tried. thanks for your help so far guys, keep the ideas coming

[TedL]

The receiver s/b under front pass seat. Make sure Id's coordinate. Took for green button to reset.

[solarapimpster]

i double checked the FCC ID from the car manual and confirmed it is correct although i found this is not the original key fob that came with the car new. i checked under the front passenger seat and found nothing. i looked under from the front and back and did not see a green button or the receiver. I looked extensively online and in my haynes repair manual and the receiver location is no where to be found. This is very frustrating

[TedL]

I appear to have sent you looking in the wrong place. It's under the seat in my 99 and 03 Avalons. The 97 fsm shows Camry location is in center console beneath radio, forward toward the firewall. That's first yr of gen 4 like yours.

Also, 97 Camry system can only register 2. Procedure for clearing/programming seems to be done using a jumper on the remote control mirror switch assembly. I now recall doing it that way back when my son first got car in 2004.

[fenixus]

what exactly are you looking for? security/alarm computer? Solaras have it under the arm rest console.

to get access to it, you need to pry out the shifters trim, then unbolt 2 screws holding the front of center console. then remove all stuff from the center arm rest box, peel off the material from bottom and unbolt 2 more bolts, then the whole thing should slide out backwards and upwards.

solarapimpster, I am writing a PM for you, based on 2000 solara, but things should be pretty much same.

[solarapimpster]

Alright so the problem was not the key fob at all. I found out how to get into confirmation mode to check how many codes were registered with the car and the car told me there were 4 (max) so i then knew what the problem was. I then had to go into rewrite mode to clear the codes and then into programming to register my key fob which works like a charm. I bought a new one just in case my original was broken but now i have a spare in case i lock my keys in my car (again). Thanks a lot guys and a special thanks to Fenixus! i would have ended up paying some shmoe down the road to do it if it wasnt for toyota nation

[fenixus]

glad you figured it out

I had my own deal of trouble with that system I was adding new remotes from ebay, buying more chip keys from ebay and dealer and such, I went through it all hehe

Just a friendly advice, if you ever plan to work on car for extended period of time, NEVER leave the battery unhooked for as long as 1 month (that's what I did)... the transponder key programming got erased from the ECU (car's ECU, not alarm), so I was standing in front of 2 options to get my master keys recognized again: a) buy new ECU from dealer (cheapest online $700, locally with labor around $1,350) or send my ECU to a qualified electronic locksmith ($160 for service +s/h).