3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Did anyone reach a point where they felt like giving up on their car?
Well, I think I might be at that point...
This is the 4th time my car has been in the shop this week.. for various issues.
First, I had all the symptoms of a head gasket being blown, apart from the oil that looks like a milkshake. Constant low oil and coolant, white exhaust, etc. I got that fixed last saturday. Tuesday, it started not shifting into 3rd gear. Wednesday, the front wheels started making ticking noises every second, and finally today my car was leaking oil from about 8 places when I got home. (Seriously, the whole front underside of the car is covered in oil) It was also completely out of coolant, i've gone through 2 gallons in 2 days.
I've owned it since new, it hasn't been abused, and I'm really losing faith in it's reliability. I need it to commute at 80MPH 80 miles a day.
Can anyone reassure me that this is just a one time thing, or should I really get a new car?
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2006 Scion tC 5spd ~ 60k miles
Last edited by mgartner0622; 09-23-2011 at 01:09 AM.
Way I see it, even if ya have to dump a couple grand into it, if you can get another 100k or more for that couple grand, then its probably 1000% (guesstimated) cheaper than buying a new car... Or possibly worse yet, trading/buying another newer-used car that might end up having even more problems.
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82 Toyota Pickup, 22r, 5spd 4wd, Detroit locker, Warn 8274
1998 Toyota Camry - 5S-FE, Auto - 205k
82 Toyota pickup - 20r, 5spd, 4wd - SOLD
I think one of the problems with the transmission is that it hasn't been changed (the fluid) for 130k miles. Could this break the transmission enough to warrant replacement?
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2006 Scion tC 5spd ~ 60k miles
Last edited by mgartner0622; 09-23-2011 at 01:08 AM.
I think one of the problems with the transmission is that it hasn't been changed (the fluid) for 130k miles. Could this break the transmission enough to warrant replacement?
It did for mine after 126K...
edit: only cost me $800 for that though. $300 ($360-$60 core charge) + $500 labor at a local reputable shop.
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1996 Camry DX SXV10
"Christina" 175,000 miles and counting
2006 Corolla CE E120
"Hitomi" 58,000 miles and counting
Could be... In my experience, once a transmission is screwed up, it's usually screwed up pretty good (like, replace or rebuild).
But I will say, in my 98, I changed trans fluid at 130-140k. Now I dunno if it had been changed before then or not, but it looked like it had been. At 205-206k (as in last week), I pulled the transmission, to fix a leak, which of course meant new seals, trans filter, pan gasket, 90% of the fluid changed ect...
It may be just in my head, but since it all went back together, everything feels better. Smoother shifting, suspension even feels tighter (maybe because I had the whole suspension and sub frame apart, and it's now re-torqued to specs)
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82 Toyota Pickup, 22r, 5spd 4wd, Detroit locker, Warn 8274
1998 Toyota Camry - 5S-FE, Auto - 205k
82 Toyota pickup - 20r, 5spd, 4wd - SOLD
Well, I think I might be at that point...
This is the 4th time my car has been in the shop this week.. for various issues.
First, I had all the symptoms of a head gasket being blown, apart from the oil that looks like a milkshake. Constant low oil and coolant, white exhaust, etc. I got that fixed last saturday. Tuesday, it started not shifting into 3rd gear. Wednesday, the front wheels started making ticking noises every second, and finally today my car was leaking oil from about 8 places when I got home. (Seriously, the whole front underside of the car is covered in oil) It was also completely out of coolant, i've gone through 2 gallons in 2 days.
I've owned it since new, it hasn't been abused, and I'm really losing faith in it's reliability. I need it to commute at 80MPH 80 miles a day.
Can anyone reassure me that this is just a one time thing, or should I really get a new car?
Is the car to blame if a shop doesn't do a thorough, competent repair? Your most recent symptoms yesterday sound like the work done Sat was not done right.
Axles that have given 100k of service owe no more. Why people want to trade the possibility of $500 repair bills several times a year for the certainty of $500 payments every month???
Not sure what your def. of "not ...abused" is. Neglecting tranny for 13 years/130k is not within my def of well taken care of.
If "It was also completely out of coolant" is not a gross exaggeration, there's a very good chance your engine is toast.
I originally got the car from my father, when he got a new one, he nothing to the car besides oil changes, I got the car at 126k. My definition of not abused is not raced, not taken off road, not driven for miles at 5k rpm, etc. It was used to commute 80 miles a day before I got it.
Again, the car has had no work done. Basically, all the problems that are surfacing have been there for a while, just gotten progressively worse, such as the oil leak and smoke coming out of the tailpipe. I've done all I can myself including transmission fluid, filter and pan (the fluid is STILL very dark black, the car shifts very jerky 1st-2nd), coolant, brake and power steering flush, and new brakes.
The shop I took it to I know the owner personally, and it is a very reputable shop, I'm 100% certain they did what they told me they did. The car has previously been in the shop 3 times, one including the timing belt, so they know my car well. (It's a locally owned and operated shop with few employees)
Theoretically, the car needs lots of work - not a thing on the car has been changed besides the brakes, oil, and tires - it even had the original air filter when I got it! My parents are bound and determined to try and convince me not to spend any money on the car, and that it should last for another 100k if I don't because that's how all their old cars have been. I know this is definitely not true in regards to the suspension, because If I fill up the gas tank all the way, the rear struts look like I'm carrying a load of bricks in the truck.
Is it worth it to change the suspension and other parts to make it last another 100k? The car was free to me, so technically I'm only down $200 in repair bills.
I've researched car payments, and if I buy a used Corolla or Civic with 40-60k miles for 10-12,000, (3k down+2k for the Camry if it's working) my car payment would be about 130 a month for sixty months. I'm not sure how much the car will cost to repair, and I don't want problems to keep resurfacing after I spend money on it. I know I have not owned it that long (about 1.5 years) but already i'm getting sick of having it in the shop for various leaks, etc.
Opinions? Is it really worth it too keep the car considering almost no maintenance has been done?
Thanks!
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2006 Scion tC 5spd ~ 60k miles
Last edited by mgartner0622; 09-23-2011 at 06:04 PM.
what do you expect from a car at 130k miles and totally no maintenance whatsoever except for changing the oil!? LOL! the cars in worst shape are the ones coming from owners claiming "it is so good that I have never done anything to it, just changed the oil", sad but true ... I have 5s-fe like that.
at least 1mz-fe has been taken care of on crucial things (but neglected on suspension, brakes and some post-collision wiring issues, all fixed by now)
interval for timing/WP job is 90k miles, you did it at 130k?
trans fluid was not changed for 126k miles? the change (drain+refill) interval is 15k miles (city driving) and 30k miles (mostly highway driving) ...
front struts are usually done at 50-60k miles, rears can hold up longer especially if no one rides in the back and you do not carry 300lbs of crap in the trunk. mine are still good but rev owner changed them at 98k miles (fronts replaced once recently).
another things that can go bad over 100k miles are axles, wheel bearings, rubber bushings and generally rubber parts, and stuff like o2/AFR sensors.
man, get over it, get your savings out of piggy bank and start doing the long past due maintenance things...
so, after fixing the head gasket there is no more milky oil and no more white exhaust? does it burn oil? anybody doublechecked the compression on all cylinders? cooling system pressure check?
I think the transmission could be one of your least issues.
EDIT:
how are your brakes? Master Cylinder any good, I bet the brake fluid has never been flushed in 13 years?
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
if both engine+trans are toast that could be an option.
however paying ~$300 a month for next 3-5 years vs spending up to $2,000 one time (if engine is good, but trans on the way out plus some other stuff to fix) is worth considering still.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun
I would get a new car.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
I actually just flushed the brake fluid considering the car wouldn't stop anymore and the pedal would go to the floor - the problem is now solved, and the car stops great, so I assume the master cylinder is fine.
My cylinder compression is within specs, and there is no more oil burning or other issues in regards to the head gasket from the repair saturday. The car does not burn oil, however due to the oil leak I just took it in for, it was/is going through lot of oil.
My cooling system is great besides the leak(s), however I'm pretty sure that the leaks in the system are caused by the cap to the radiator as it does not fit very tightly, but I took it to the shop just to make sure.
The one good part about the car is that it lived in the garage and was washed and waxed weekly - the paint is perfect and the rubber is mostly still good.
I know it seems like complaining, but I'm kind of scared to drive the car farther than the store because of the fact that it has been ignored and could overheat or contract issues on the freeway.
__________________
2006 Scion tC 5spd ~ 60k miles
Last edited by mgartner0622; 09-23-2011 at 06:46 PM.
if both engine+trans are toast that could be an option.
however paying $300 a month vs spending up to $2,000 one time (if engine is good, but trans on the way out) is worth considering still.
Yeah, I went through this problem with my old 96 Plymouth Voyager. It had about 138k on it and started leaking coolant to a point where I was refilling it with coolant almost everyday. At that time I didn't know much about cars, so I couldn't fix the thermostat housing leak. After a couple weeks it got worse so I just used water, after doing that dance I stopped filling it up and drove without coolant for a long time. It overheated alot to a point where it was normal, then the transmission went bad so we donated it and my dad bought a new car and gave me his old one. Just letting the OP know that this may be only the beginning of your problems so buying a different car with lower miles and maintain it from the start would probably be the smartest choice.
that sounds good actually. there is hope
just drain+refill the trans a few more times in short intervals (e.g. every week or so) a few times and see if you are able to save it. if not then it calls for either a rebuild or a swap.
get a new rad cap from dealer before you start troubleshooting cooling system leaks. how are rad hoses? are they different color on ends, cracked maybe?
visually check the coolant bypass hoses to IAC valve and heater core (it's right behind the firewall).
how is power steering? have you flushed it yet? in 8 years (74k miles) the factory ATF turned into honey on my wife's 5s-fe, was very hard to suck it out from return tank and mix with new fluid as a prep step to flush it later. pump still works great though
yeah, if the biggest problem are oil leaks (could from a lousy timing job in past, oil pump seals are suspect) then I'd say it's not that bad as it sounded like
oh, and don't forget to drain & refill the differential (if car is 4cylindrer then it is separate from transmission).
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgartner0622
Answering your questions in random order;
I actually just flushed the brake fluid considering the car wouldn't stop anymore and the pedal would go to the floor - the problem is now solved, and the car stops great, so I assume the master cylinder is fine.
My cylinder compression is within specs, and there is no more oil burning or other issues in regards to the head gasket from the repair saturday. The car does not burn oil, however due to the oil leak I just took it in for, it was/is going through lot of oil.
My cooling system is great besides the leak(s), however I'm pretty sure that the leaks in the system are caused by the cap to the radiator as it does not fit very tightly, but I took it to the shop just to make sure.
The one good part about the car is that it lived in the garage and was washed and waxed weekly - the paint is perfect and the rubber is mostly still good.
I know it seems like complaining, but I'm kind of scared to drive the car farther than the store because of the fact that it has been ignored and could overheat or contract issues on the freeway.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
I also changed the differential oil - that looked almost new when it came out, probably due to the car's low torque.
The main thing i'm worried about once the leaks are finished. is the transmission. It shifts from 1st to 2nd like how a manual transmission feels when you slip off the clutch - the car just jumps forward... I assume this is not normal but this is how the car has shifted since I got it. It got quite a bit better when the pan and fluid was changed by me, but then once again the fluid changed from a deep red to a grey when rubbed on a paper towel.
How much is a new transmission generally for the 5s-fe?
you mean that the trans DURING shifting gears from 1st to 2nd behaves like it was running a too high gear for the speed (on manual setup) and it jumps/chokes/shakes?
something is slipping. the grey color of fluid ... I think it could be worn out clutch packs probably causing it (loose particles of that material I think give the grey look of fluid). I would drain+refill it 3-5 more times and see if it goes away or not, there must be lots of the clutch packs material circulating in system if the ATF color turn grey so quickly.
not sure about getting it repaired, have not much idea about things like that, maybe others will post more.
example trans swap was priced in one of above posts at $800 (parts+labor), probably depending on area it could be something more or less, also depending on what part's source is used, it could be used from junkyard or it could be remanufactured ... or new, but price of the last one is probably astronomical.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgartner0622
I also changed the differential oil - that looked almost new when it came out, probably due to the car's low torque.
The main thing i'm worried about once the leaks are finished. is the transmission. It shifts from 1st to 2nd like how a manual transmission feels when you slip off the clutch - the car just jumps forward... I assume this is not normal but this is how the car has shifted since I got it. It got quite a bit better when the pan and fluid was changed by me, but then once again the fluid changed from a deep red to a grey when rubbed on a paper towel.
How much is a new transmission generally for the 5s-fe?
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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