3VZ-FE valve cover gasket DIY Writeup - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 09-23-2011, 02:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation 3VZ-FE valve cover gasket DIY Writeup

this shortened writeup will cover changing the valve cover gaskets on a Camry with a 3VZ-FE engine. i will later add the torque specs as well as all tools needed with pictures of each tool. all work performed was by myself on my 92 Carmy SE with a 3VZ-FE and a 5spd manual trans.

-remove the left bank engine cover and the upper half of the air box with intake tube:





-remove the solenoid rack and anv vacuum lines blocking the left bank:





-remove the cold start fuel injector's fuel line, ground wire, and the pcv valve's hose and accociated vacuum lines:





-remove the rear egr tube, rear engine hanger and the rear vacuum lines. you will also need to disconnect the throttle sensor on the rear of the throttle body:





-remove the two nuts and the two bolts holding the upper intake manifold to the lower manifold:



-lift the upper intake off and leave the throttle body attached:



now you are ready to remove each valve cover. they are held on with 10mm bolts. the bolts are special and have rubber washers with a metal head under each bolt. these washer should be changed EVERY time the gaskets are replaced.



the bolts that come off will probably look like this:



you will need these new washers form Toyota:

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Old 09-23-2011, 02:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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the valve covers will probably look like the when removed:



clean them thoroughly:



install the new spark plug tube seals first and then the valve cover gasket:



apply sealant to each corner of the mating surface on the cylinder head where the valve cover gasket meets the head. ensure that you clean the surface of any oil or debris. place the valve cover in position and torque the bolts in steps until the proper torque is reached. overtorquing will result in cracking the aluminum valve cover. re-install each component in the reverse order of removal, noting the the torque specs for the upper to lower intake manifold. the toughest part of the process for me was wiggling the rear harness up enough so that i was able to remove the right (rear) valve cover. this is a tight fit.
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice DIY. It's a good idea to stuff rags or something into the intake manifold ports to prevent dropped screws or whatever from falling in.

Also a good time to check the valve/cam clearances.
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the write-up! I always give up when attempting to make my own.

How did you get the valve cover so clean?
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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i cleaned the valve covers with brake cleaner and then engine degreaser and hot water. the oil was really caked on them and was hard to get off. i was leary to throw them in the hot tank so i just did it by hand. i have had a couple people ask for a valve cover writeup so i figured i'd post a quick one and add to it within the next day or so. i actually did this last fall but kept forgetting to post the writeup.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Nice DIY. Is that the new silicone Fel-Pro red gasket? Or did the cover gasket come from the dealer?

Did you reseal the semicircular plugs?
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
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the spark plug tube seals were new as well. they just happened to be black just as the old ones were. the gasket kit that i used was the FEL-PRO silicone set. i give it the highest marks. far better than the rubber set i installed back in 2005! i still have the old gaskets and the box that the new gaskets came in. i'll take a picture of it tonight on my lunch break or tomorrow afternoon when i wake up and i'll post the picture with the part number.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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today i will be taking the time to include all of the torque specs and special tools needed to perform this repair.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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hehe, looks like exactly what i did a month and half ago.

good job

i did one more item while i was at it. i replaced the PCV valve and grommet.
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i replaced it when i did the valve cover job as well. i just didn't add that in there. the grommet was hard as a rock and it was difficult to remove.
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Good thing i did this! Two of the spark plug tube seals were cracked(Is it bad for the car? I guess) . To bad i don't get any of the parts till Tuesday.

Good DIY.
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:25 AM   #13 (permalink)
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thanks! the spark plug tube seals, seal the oil from getting into the spark plug wells. the oil will seep in there and foul the plug and can ruin the rubber on the wire's boot. the spark plug tube seals can be stubborn to remove so have patience.
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Thank you once again! I wouldnt of attempt changing nothing if there was no DIY of this.
And I've been driving like that for a while. Good thing nothing happen. Those things are stubborn but two of them came out easily. That's how bad they were. The inside is so clean for a 230k mile car. . Well maintenance. lol
I dont know if you did it but do you recommend changing the oil also?
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Old 10-09-2011, 03:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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yeah, i changed the oil at the same time i changed the valve cover gaskets. figured it couldn't hurt to do while i was in there.
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92 Camry SE 3VZ-FE 5spd 131K 6m1
85 Porsche 944 119K 5spd
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