99 Toyota Camry went through three EVAP purge valves in 3 months

[cougarhunter]

I'm getting tired of seeing my check engine light come on my 99 toyota camry. Because it has been for the purge solenoid for the EVAP system under my hood. And mostly because I have had to replace it three times in like three months. Something is killing them. The one's I bought weren't from a dealer however. That might be something. I have a performance air intake on it. And so I had to move the solenoid to a different spot in the area. Does it have to be grounded or something? I like to do a lot of under body washes. Being in Utah you'll get salt under there. And I'm wondering if getting water on it is shorting them out. I have to buy a new one, should I buy it from the dealer this time or do you guys suspect something different? The three that I bought before is a Dorman part number 911-603. The three I have bought were from rock auto. They list it as "Category: Vacuum Control Valve." Any ideas? The picture is of the part I have replaced to many times now.

[fenixus]

why don't you try an OEM part from online dealer? it shouldn't be much more expensive than Dorman equivalent. I learned to use only OEM parts around the engine and so far it works for me. I had very bad luck with most of aftermarket parts in general...

it's just an electrical vacuum switch valve, but perhaps inside on the OEm unit are of better quality than on Dorman one?

[BamZipPow]

Are you using any dielectric grease on the connectors?

Are any of the connectors showing any green residue from the copper corroding?

Are you topping off yer gas tank?

Are you testing the purge valve fer the proper operation? How do you know it failed?

What code are you gitting from the ECU?

Since there are 2 wires going to the solenoid...it shouldn't require grounding.

When you installed the performance air intake, did you move any vacuum lines? Are you sure the purge line isn't pinched or clogged up?

[cougarhunter]

Originally Posted by BamZipPow

Are you using any dielectric grease on the connectors?

Are any of the connectors showing any green residue from the copper corroding?

Are you topping off yer gas tank?

Are you testing the purge valve fer the proper operation? How do you know it failed?

What code are you gitting from the ECU?

Since there are 2 wires going to the solenoid...it shouldn't require grounding.

When you installed the performance air intake, did you move any vacuum lines? Are you sure the purge line isn't pinched or clogged up?

I never top the tank off. I pump my own gas here. =) No corrosion. I had put some dielectric grease on one of the past ones that failed. Is it a good idea to do so? Usually it would make a noticeable clicking noise (that's what they did coming out of the box new) when the valve is open. And then stop when it closes. I just stuck my head by it and I can slightly hear it clicking. Maybe it's not dead yet. Maybe it's clogged. I have changed the whole canister and all the valves attached to it by the fuel tank over a year ago. I have some carb cleaner. Should I try to spray some into the lines and the solenoid? I didn't move any of the vacuum lines.

[cougarhunter]

Originally Posted by fenixus

why don't you try an OEM part from online dealer? it shouldn't be much more expensive than Dorman equivalent. I learned to use only OEM parts around the engine and so far it works for me. I had very bad luck with most of aftermarket parts in general...

it's just an electrical vacuum switch valve, but perhaps inside on the OEm unit are of better quality than on Dorman one?

Do you have the website for getting a oem part for it?

[fenixus]

www.toyodiy.com/parts
www.toyotapartszone.com (one of dealer websites)

check all the vacuum tubing first for restrictions, it's just plain weird that so many valves died like that. How exactly did they die? electrically or mechanically?

[cougarhunter]

Originally Posted by fenixus

www.toyodiy.com/parts
www.toyotapartszone.com (one of dealer websites)

check all the vacuum tubing first for restrictions, it's just plain weird that so many valves died like that. How exactly did they die? electrically or mechanically?

They would stop clicking and would not open. The code talks about insufficient flow purge solenoid. I've seen that code so many times now you'd think I would have the code memorized.

[fenixus]

so even after jumpering them to battery they do not open anymore at some point (and are not clogged)? I would try OEM part if tubing is OK and all else checked out in past.

[BamZipPow]

I would double check yer wiring to make sure it's not shorted out somewhere to cause it to cycle so much.

[bolink654]

Curious about the topping off the tank thing?

Can this hurt something? Or is not topping it off what hurts things?

Cuz when I fill up I let it run til the pump clicks off, then to the next dollar. Unless it shuts off at like $40.01 then I stop cuz if I try to put 99 cents into it, sometimes some runs out onto the ground. Is this a problem? Should I not do that?

[fenixus]

topping off to next dollar (if it's close) is usually safe, but trying to put anything more (like next dollar) will likely flood the overfill check valve. it can get damaged eventually. don't do this.

NJ is one of states (if not the only one) where it's illegal to operate the pump on your own (however stupid it sounds it is true), you actually have to wait for the attendant to fill the tank for you and most of them top off a little bit. no problems with that though as far.

Originally Posted by bolink654

Curious about the topping off the tank thing?

Can this hurt something? Or is not topping it off what hurts things?

Cuz when I fill up I let it run til the pump clicks off, then to the next dollar. Unless it shuts off at like $40.01 then I stop cuz if I try to put 99 cents into it, sometimes some runs out onto the ground. Is this a problem? Should I not do that?

[cougarhunter]

Can anyone tell me what the Toyota Genuine part number is for that part? As the one in my car is a dorman part number.

Also what are some reasons why it may cycle so much, the solenoid that is? I know the electrical can be one. Anything else?

[bolink654]

Originally Posted by fenixus

topping off to next dollar (if it's close) is usually safe, but trying to put anything more (like next dollar) will likely flood the overfill check valve. it can get damaged eventually. don't do this.

NJ is one of states (if not the only one) where it's illegal to operate the pump on your own (however stupid it sounds it is true), you actually have to wait for the attendant to fill the tank for you and most of them top off a little bit. no problems with that though as far.

I believe one of the north western states do this too. I want to say Oregon? Perhaps it is Washington. Anyway, that is interesting, never heard of that.

[cougarhunter]

Originally Posted by BamZipPow

I would double check yer wiring to make sure it's not shorted out somewhere to cause it to cycle so much.

Can it be the ECM?

[fenixus]

this is the VSV sitting on top of resonator by the air box, correct?

here you go:
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/t...860-74050.html

ECU operates VSV by switching the ground connection, so I have no idea why it cycles a lot, mine does too on 5s-fe, I think they should actually quickly click that's how this purge valve works.

check all ground connections (for harness, not for the engine), ECU loves using the 2 ground points behind the engine behind the cylinder #1, you can see them from passenger side. make sure they are clean and tight. I had some trouble when those were dirty with oil dripping from broken valve cover gasket.

Originally Posted by cougarhunter

Can anyone tell me what the Toyota Genuine part number is for that part? As the one in my car is a dorman part number.

Also what are some reasons why it may cycle so much, the solenoid that is? I know the electrical can be one. Anything else?