Brake caliper mount rubbing - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Icefan71 · 09-26-2011, 06:17 PM

94 Camry 2.2 I replaced the front left hub/bearing and when I put everything back together, the caliper mount is rubbing against the rotor. It looks like the mounts are bent inward toward the rotor. How did this happen? Could it have been from pressing the old hub/bearing out and the new one in? Or was it from the heat when my bearing went bad? While driving the other day, the front left wheel was shaking real bad. I pulled over and it was burning hot. I pulled the wheel and found the bearing was real loose. When I pressed out the hub and removed the snap ring the inner race and balls just all fell out. Looks like I need a new knuckle now $$$$!!

***fenixus*** · 09-26-2011, 06:56 PM

most likely the rotor does not sit flush on the hub, it could be at an angle. check that first.

I drove my car with shot front bearings for god knows how long and didn't experience neither over heating nor warping on anything ... my bearings disintegrated upon removal too. hubs were garbage too as the matter of fact...

have you torqued the axle nuts to 217ft-lbs as the manual recommends? (based on gen4 specs)

***JohnGD*** · 09-26-2011, 08:18 PM

One TN member mentioned that a chain store pressed his bearings and ruined the new bearings and on the second try the knuckles. So it's possible that the knuckle is bent, or there is a problem with the hub (wobbling for example). Is the hub/bearing fully seated?

Icefan71 · 09-26-2011, 08:55 PM

Pulled off the rotor, caliper. Found a little rusty build up on rotor inside hole. Cleaned it up and put everything back together. Rotated by hand and it looked good. Went for a 10 minute drive and it seemed fine. When I got home the wheel was smoking again. So now what? Maybe the rotor is warped. Maybe the caliper is sticking.

***JohnGD*** · 09-26-2011, 09:31 PM

Where is the heat concentrated at? The rotor surface or near the axle/hub? That should tell you where to look.

How often do you flush the brake fluid? And when you try to move the anchor pins, can you do it with two fingers easily?

If the bearings are new you shouldn't have this heat problem from the bearings. How was the axle nut torqued?

etc etc

Quote:

Originally Posted by Icefan71

Pulled off the rotor, caliper. Found a little rusty build up on rotor inside hole. Cleaned it up and put everything back together. Rotated by hand and it looked good. Went for a 10 minute drive and it seemed fine. When I got home the wheel was smoking again. So now what? Maybe the rotor is warped. Maybe the caliper is sticking.

***fenixus*** · 09-26-2011, 09:51 PM

see, rotor was not aligned properly on the hub ... but the things is we do not know if this is all about it, perhaps, hub is not seated all the way in into the steering knuckle, that's why such problem in first place? question on axle nut torque comes back.

correct me if wrong, but this torque could be there to actually make sure the hub/bearing is seated fully into the steering knuckle in case it wasn't done on hydraulic press in first place?

also the question is where the smoke was coming from? if center of hub then the bearing is likely seized (improperly installed, probably garbage already by now if that's the case) or the pads are rubbing the rotor (dragging caliper) OR the rotor still sits too far out on the hub not fully pressed in and causes the outside pad to touch rotor at all times. might be worth checking asap.

just don't feel the temp by hand, you will get burned. use a non-contact thermometer, e.g. the $9.99 one from HFT or something similar to find the heat source.

Icefan71 · 09-27-2011, 03:35 PM

Axle nut torque was somewhere around 150 lb/ft. I don't have the book in front of me. I borrowed neighbor's torque wrench. I jacked up the car today and watched the tire as I spun it by hand. It looks like its rotating straight for whatever that's worth. I could hear rubbing though. It wasn't constant, only when it came around to a certain point. So maybe it is the rotor. I pulled the caliper and pumped the brake to let the piston come out quite a bit. Pulled off the seal and lock ring. I didn't see any wear or rough spots where it would bind so I put it back together. I'm gonna try swapping rotors and see what happens. Have to wait till later. Open house at the kid's school. Thanks for all the input everyone.

Icefan71 · 09-28-2011, 04:20 AM

I went to swap rotors when I noticed there was a small gouge in the rotor from when I first took it off. It was stuck so I used a bolt and nut thru the mount hole to get it off. The gouge had a raised edge on it. It took a grinder to it and knocked it down. Overheating is gone. Car drives totally fine now.

priya9942 · 10-12-2011, 10:37 AM

Something is sticking and causing friction. There was an excellent Japanese language video I had seen that showed how to completely rebuild a Toyota (a small blue sub-compact) disk brake caliper including taking very single part apart. You can ignore the language and just follow the video. That should help you identify the source of your problem. I was unable to find the video after an extensive search today. Can someone please post a link to that video?

Icefan71 · 10-12-2011, 07:20 PM

Its been a couple of weeks now and everything is fine.

***fenixus*** · 10-12-2011, 07:29 PM

priya9942 · 10-12-2011, 09:24 PM

Glad things are fine, though I don't understand why a gouge on your rotor would cause it to overheat. If the router has an edge, the pad mating that surface would have a gouge/depression matching it. Now that you have turned the rotor to remove the edge, you might want to check out the pad and replace all 4 on that axle if the pad has a gouge. Also, consider turning the other rotor as well on that axle while you've got the wheels off. All these steps will increase the contact surface area, make the braking action smooth and improve braking performance. Regardless, it sounds like you're past the immediate problem with the overheating.

Icefan71 · 10-27-2011, 07:15 PM

A month later and the damn wheel is smoking again! The rotor seems to be the hottest. Everything else is just warm. I checked the other (pass) side and everything is warm there too. No hot spots. I spun the hub/bearing by hand and its toast. It makes a ratcheting sound. So I replaced it again along with both rotors, pads and a tie rod end since the stud turns witht the nut now. Again, I torqued everything to specs and took it for a test drive. It is still smoking. All thats left is the caliper which I think I'll look at tomorrow and probably replace. After that, what else is there? This is really killing me. I don't know why it was fine for a month and now its hot again.

***fenixus*** · 10-27-2011, 07:55 PM

sticking/dragging caliper can surely overheat rotor (warping it) and wheel bearing too. how are the brake pads wearing out, evenly or not so much?

Icefan71 · 10-27-2011, 09:29 PM

I didn't notice if they were worn evenly. I put new pads on and the old ones are in the box so I can check.