3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 1992 Camry, 4 cylinder, 2.2 engine. I'm ready to put a match to it. No one seems to have an answer to my problem. When I first start it up in the morning I wait for it to warm up. When it is warmed up I take off. When I'm slowing up to my first stop the car starts to shake and I notice that the RPM's are dropping down to near "0". I then put the car in neutral, rev it up till the RPM's hit 4 or 5 and then the problem goes away. While it is shaking and dropping down to "0" I get a strong smell of gas. If I don't rev it up the car will stall out. I'm able to re-start it with no problems. This problem also is now happening when after doing high speeds, between 50 and 65 MPH and then slowing up to come to a stop the car begins to shake and the RPM's start dropping down to "0". I literately have to put it into neutral while I'm slowing down, rev up the RPM's once to about 4 or 5 and then the problem goes away. Also I noticed that while I'm cruising along on the highway at a high speed I can feel the car vibrating or surging somewhat. This is what we have done so far, changed the temperature sensor, changed the gas filter, changed the pcv valve, changed the air filter, cleaned the IAC valve, cleaned the throttle body, What else is there to do? I'm going nuts over this. The car has 172 thousand miles on it. I really don't want to get rid of it.
Please help me?
Your Camry's symptoms are usually caused by a dirty/malfunctioning IAC valve. When you say the IAC valve was cleaned, does that mean it got some throttle body cleaner sprayed into it? Sometimes that simply isn't thorough enough.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
I would agree on that.
There are some great threads on how to clean it here. But if you have been experiencing the problem gradually,....and just kept getting worse,.....you may have to test/remove/replace/or thouroughly clean the IAC valve itself. Search the forum for "IAC valve" threads,....if you end up needing to replace it,......rockauto parts has them fairly cheap or contact toyopartsman here on the forum,...he'll get you an OEM one for 30% off,....he's a trustworthy guy,....great reputation and helps alot of us here.
By the way,...when you replaced your gas filter,....did the gas smell start after that? If you did not use a Toyota filter,....these are notorious for leaking at the bottom fitting. You may not see the leak because the gas evaporates quickly. Search the threads here on that as well.
Also I noticed that while I'm cruising along on the highway at a high speed I can feel the car vibrating or surging somewhat.
Just re-read your post and caught this, which is not symptomatic of a sticky IAC valve. Spark plugs & wires, maybe?... how old are they? '92 4cyl has a distributor, right?... how old are the cap & rotor? These could also cause the poor idle RPM control.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
Possibly a sticking EGR valve. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve; drive your car and see if it's fixed. Another possiblility is a faulty Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT). connect a voltmeter to the ECT sensor and check the resistance (ohms). Turn on the car let it warm and watch the ohm readings. They should decrease as the car warms up. If the readings start going up and down erratically it means that the ECT sensor is gone. These erratic readings are interpreted by the ECU as low coolant temp and creates an enriched engine condition ( too much gas ) and the car will do a warm stall. You said you replaced a temperature sensor, but I would test it anyway. Good luck!
__________________ It worked fine until I fixed it!
you could have a clogged fuel return line or a leak or possably your fule pump is on its death bed i get about 150k on a stock fule pump and your messed idol situation sounds alot like what happened to me
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