3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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ok, this might not be camry specific, but just in case, I'm looking for some suggestions
I put on new rotors and pads in the front and afterwards I had a shudder or grabbing when braking, at all speeds, but most violently comming of the highway and braking harder at high speeds.
Reluctantly I pulled of the wheels and brakes and sanded the pads and a little bit on the rotors to, made sure the hubs were 100% clean, but the problem persists.
Now, I kind of learned to live with it and developed a technique for comming of the highway without too sudden brake force, and I might just keep living with it and hope that it will just dissapear one day.
I don't know how bad it is other than anoying to have this kind of shudder. the steering wheel shudders and I figure steering and front suspension will get more taxed driving with this defect and wear faster...
It seems I'm missing a shim on the outside of each front pad. Looking in my Haynes manual it shows two shims on each pad, one outer and one inner anti-squeal shim, and I only have one on each, wich is the adhesive ones that came with the new pads. The ones I pulled of had no shims at all.
I don't want to think that i actually recieved uneven rotors from rockauto... but maybe it's possible...
I don't know what to do... does anyone have any ideas?
That shim could have an effect if it is moving too much but thats likely not it. You have to be careful when buying rotors. You really get what you pay for and your situation sounds like a warped rotor. Cheap rotors are easy to warp.
Sounds like one or both of your rotors are warped. If you have a rotor runout tool you can verify this yourself. If not remove the rotors and take them to a machine shop and have them checked. It is not unheard of for new rotors out of the box to be warped.
Bottom line, you need to have them checked. Would hate to lose control in a panic braking situation!
Mine does what I think he's saying. But I only notice it when braking somewhat hard/fast. I was starting to think maybe the struts. I don't bounce a lot, but I have no proof that these struts have ever been changed. 90k miles.
As stated wisely above, warped rotors are almost certainly your problem. Been there, had that on many cars and a truck. If the rotors are not particularly high in quality, it can take only one or two good roastings from autobaun speeds to do it, even if their new.
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yeah, possibly they are warped already ... what you describe while braking down from high speeds is pretty common if rotors are warped or excessively grooved.
the worst brake shake and knocking I had was when actually rust ate a tiny bit past the edge of rotor (maybe 1-2mm of surface), it was terrible. had to resurface the rotor making on side pretty thin to remove that (and still use same rotor).
I would take rotors to a machine shop where they do resurfacing and ask them to check runout, if anything is wrong, just contact rockauto and ask for advance replacement or send them back for a refund if you can and get stronger units. if the return window is closed, then it will be dealing with manufacturer warranty claim, so you better get another set of better rotors before that happens...
camry uses ceramic pads the lowest and performance pads are even more "biting" (not sure what they are made of exactly, some composite), so you cannot get the cheapest possible rotors, because the story will repeat over and over again ... unless you use organic pads (utter piece of crap).
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
camry uses ceramic pads the lowest and performance pads are even more "biting" (not sure what they are made of exactly, some composite), so you cannot get the cheapest possible rotors, because the story will repeat over and over again ... unless you use organic pads (utter piece of crap).
I looked at the order confirmation, I guess they are organic
I was trying to save on shipping by making sure pads and rotors shipped from the same location.
Centric C-tek or Premium rotors maybe? some people use they with success, but there are also other options (slightly more expensive) like Brembo Plain blank rotors, e.g. $40/each on tirerack, not sure if rockauto carries them.
as for pads, I would get regular Akebono ProACT, they are same as the best of OEM batch of pads you can get from dealer (they are ceramic), they are usually on sale around $35 in tirerack.com
you can sand the organic pads a little bit with sanding paper on a flat surface and use them on new rotors until pads wear out, it shouldn't take too long LOL
When I had those (Wagner ThermoQuiet organic) they however lost the ability to stop the car normally around half way through their life, so I dumped them to garbage and got some performance pads instead.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
Are you sure it's the front brakes that are shuttering? I had a shuttering even after I replace the front pads, front rotors, and rear pads. It turned out that the problem was the rear rotors.
Are you sure it's the front brakes that are shuttering? I had a shuttering even after I replace the front pads, front rotors, and rear pads. It turned out that the problem was the rear rotors.
Yeah, it started on the first drive after the new front ones so i'm pretty much 100% sure. Also, steering wheel shudder is a strong indicator that it's the fronts.
Akebono ProAct ceramic and Brembo rotors. Or Centric C-Tek or Premium (powder coated hubs) rotors.
With any rotor you're also supposed to check for hub round out. For example, shift the rotor one lug stud or more to get a min reading. But I don't think it's ever a problem.
when you pull the bracket just check the anchor pins. Toyota designs like to stick in their bores. Just don't clean them with petroleum based cleaners. It makes the rubber swell more and the anchor pins will really stick.
And if the rotors started vibrating right after install then first check for debris trapped between the hub/rotor and rotor/wheel. Otherwise it's a good chance the new rotor may have a problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twodoorcamry
BTW can anyone recomend a good budget pads and rotors set if I order new ones?
I really cant spen to much, I spent $60 on this set, is $100-$125 a realistic range?
obviously, i will pay what it takes to not have to go through this again..
Update... Rockauto gives me the money back for the faulty rotors, even thogh the order was way old... May 4! (bought back and front sets at the same time and waited a long time with getting the fronts installed)
Two for them!
Thanks for all advice... will try me a couple of Centric Premium this time, with discount $64 for the pair from the same store...
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