Camry only running on cylinder 2

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Hey guys, I recently had my head redone on my engine (92 camry) and I hooked everything back up and went to fire it and it wouldnt crank over at first. I Checked for fuel, which i had, then I started checking for spark and I have no spark on 1 3 and 4. I thought that there maybe was a problem with the coil, so I pulled the cap and checked the coil and the top of it was cracked so I replaced it with a used (good) coil. I have codes 31 and 13, and I tried swapping the igniter, and the map sensor as well. When it does start, obviously it sounds /runs like crap. I haven't reset the ECM since I swapped the map and the coil either.

any help would be appreciated.

[Jason.MZW20]

Mechanical timing?

Sounds like the ECU is firing on cylinder 2 thinking it's cylinder 1. The firing order is 1-3-4-2. Reset the engine to TDC/compression on cylinder 1 and ensure the timing belt didn't jump teeth or you didn't make a mistake.

[fenixus]

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

31 - Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).
13 - Knock Control CPU (ECM).

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Originally Posted by fenixus

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

31 - Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).
13 - Knock Control CPU (ECM).

Thanks for that!

Now i know why the air flow went off .. because the intake isnt connected.

I had to solder the wiring together on the Knock sensor.. Making me think. would an incorrectly connected knock sensor cause the ecm to throw it into a fail-safe or something? How many wires connect to the knock sensor? I only saw one wire, but maybe thats what the problem was?

[fenixus]

hmmm, Knock sensors use a shielded wiring, so maybe the ECM doesn't like the soldered connection?

not sure. reset the ECU first to erase the codes and see what comes back after plugging the MAF/MAP back in.

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I was looking on google and it says that Code 13 is RPM Signal .. Something to do with the Crank / Cam corrolation being wrong.

Would the Crank/cam corrolation cause the car to fire incorrectly? Now since I changed distributors with a known good one, you would think that it would remedy any problems that I had with the bad distributor. Now since it still doesn't run still, does that sound like a wiring issue ?

I'm pretty sure I have a wiring issue, but its just really annoying not knowing exactly what the problem is

does anyone know if the 92 Camry LE Harness plugs are interchangeable with the 92 Celica GT Harness?

[fenixus]

well, bad cran vs cam correlation could indicate a bad timing belt alignment imho...

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Well, I checked a bunch of crap today:

1. Mechanical timing - Good
2. Ignition timing - Good (Compression stroke pointing to #1)
3. Checked the GE and NE pickups on the distributor. Within spec
4. Checked the wiring between the distributor and the ignitor - Good
5. Checked the wiring from the GE / NE to the ECM - Good
6. Checked the Ignition Coil for voltage - Good
7. Checked the Wiring from igniter to ECM - Good
8. Probed the Black with Yellow stripe wire that runs from the igniter to the ECM and grounded it. Checked for voltage. Didn't get voltage for some reason.
9. Changed ECM With Known good one - No change
10. Changed the igniter with known good - No Change

I didnt check the air gap, because I could see that the gaps were good, and it ran before changing the transmission.

I have no idea what the dang problem is. lol

I did also notice when Checking the wiring that went from the igniter to the Distributor (thick black with orange stripe) It had a lot of resistance. Jumped from 60ish to 149ish Ohms.

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Well, I just bought a new Engine harness for it because I know thats what the problem is. Somewhere in the harness a wire is broke, or disconnected. I'll keep you guys posted