Brake line help change

[toovira]

So I'm replacing all 4 corners brake lines (cracked). Start with right rear first, no problem. Then went to left rear - the b-nut from the master cylinder to rubber hose is so tight, but she turned. Then went to the other end of the rubber hose (mount on the shock - from rubber to wheel cylinder), now both b-nuts backed out of the thread, but still caught and the rubber hose can't be removed?

I tried heat, no go....what to do?

Then I decided to tighten them all back as I decided forget it. Now I get leak at the b-nut that's mounted on the shock (rubber to wheel cylinder). Any suggestions?

Where do I get the curly q section of steel line from the shock to wheel cylinder? I have a feeling I need a new one.

[toovira]

And whatever you do, stay away from front left Centric Brake lines. It doesn't fit. The banjo peg/bolt hole off set is off by 3mm. I just can't believe they are dumb enough to ship a part like that out.

[carsrus]

Bend all your own lines. Its much cheaper and simpler to be honest. They come in section of 4-5 ft and just use couplings to extend. Bend loops in if line is to long in a spot. In my expirence is easiest to just repalce hoses and everything and call it a day. Beats trying to remove rusty fittings.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by toovira

So I'm replacing all 4 corners brake lines (cracked).

Brake lines or brake hoses?

[toovira]

I guess if the terminology hose = rubber and line = steel, then brake hose. As I mentioned, the brake hose is stuck with the brake line after the b-nut is backed off. So I may end up having to replace a brake line also (from the rear wheel cylinder to the brake hose). That part is now leaking when I put it back together.

[toovira]

Also update: Don't buy Centric. Front right has problems installing. Old hose would install, but Centric's thread hole is 0.2mm smaller than factory's, NAPA's, and their own from the other corner. That's 60 thousandths of an inch....in short, an Irwin tap and die from home depot would create tolerance way smaller than that. Poor quality control.

I figure from the mother company who makes PowerSlot and StopTech would be good....I was wrong.

[oopssorryy]

I would just replace all your lines. When I did mine (just a month or two ago) we fixed all the problem spots and then went to bleed the brakes. Then new leaks appear and you have to go back in.... doing the same job twice (or more) is quite annoying.

[JohnGD]

+1 OP may want to replace all the steel "lines" too. Maybe some of the lines' flare ends were crushed? However, I'd just get pre-bent lines from the dealer first.

Use a low moisture activity brake fluid, like Castrol GT LMA or Valvoline synthetic.