3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Broad sided my front left wheel... Suspension pushed back... How much will it cost?
Hey guys,
My beloved 93' Camry has taken one for the team tonight. It had been lightly raining... I was making a right turn and my tires broke free, and I slid right into the curb with no mercy. My left wheel slammed into the curb with the wheel basically almost parallel to the curb. It took some gas to get her unstuck... I pulled into my parking lot at school and jacked it up and looked at the damage.
My front left wheel is pushed back. Maybe only an inch of clearance from the back side of the wheel well and the tire. It looks like the camber has been tilted in at the bottom of the wheel. And the suspension has been bent back and the trans-axle now rubs on the tie rod. I'm not 100% sure of suspension terminology, but the trans-axle is rubbing on whatever part is directly behind it that has to do with steering I believe.
I'm in a bind right now, because I am busy with classes at college. She's my daily driver and I don't have a lot of time to take it to a shop and get it fixed. Alas that is probably what must be done. I do not have time to take photos, and it's dark out. I will post some tomorrow though.
I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to how much this is gonna cost me, and if my car can actually be fixed. My poor little car I love it I rebuilt the engine in it and drove it all the way from Austin, TX to Harrisonburg, VA (2 hours outside of DC) and back to Austin again, and she stayed faithful all 2800 miles. I've put about 18,000 miles on the car since I replaced the engine. Now up at about 188,000 miles on the frame.
Any help suggestions questions or comments please post.
I'm in a bind right now, because I am busy with classes at college.
I know how you feel. I'm stuck with 17 hours.
Some pictures of the damage will help. But judging by you're description; first on the damage list are the strut and possible the lower control arm. Next, would be damage to the wheel, strut tower mount, tie rods, ball joint, bearing, and maybe frame too.
Some pictures of the damage will help. But judging by you're description; first on the damage list are the strut and possible the lower control arm. Next, would be damage to the wheel, strut tower mount, tie rods, ball joint, bearing, and maybe frame too.
Seem fixable but without pictures, it's not 100%.
Yeah I have 16 hours, and I have a job, and working on my commercial single engine land pilot certificate so I'm pretty busy!! My car is my life line being away from home at college...
Anyways, I will post pictures tomorrow afternoon. It will just have to wait until then. Until that time homework galore!
Hey guys, I know I haven't posted those pictures yet. They will be coming later this afternoon. I was wondering if anyone had ballpark figures on the price for parts. Say everything that holds the wheel in place as far as suspension how much $$$$$ am I looking at spending just on parts alone? I know labor is gonna be $$$$$$ too... That's about all I was seeing as my tires broke free from the pavement was $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
It would have to be significantly more than $1500 for me to consider buying a new car... I've put way more money into this car than it's worth, and you cant get a good used car for less than $3000. I'm talking about a bunch of money I don't have any way you look at it. Any kind of an estimate I'm all ears.... Like I said pictures will be posted later...
You can get a quick strut assembly for $125(comes with everything). The knuckle and control arm from the junkyard(if they are bent). Inner and outer tie rods and ball joints are cheap online.
i bought a 93 SE a few years back that had been curbed. the only damage was a bent lower control arm. it was a fairly easy fix and took around an hour from start to finish. if yours looks anything like mine did then i think you should look at the lower control arm. here's a pic of that SE after i unloaded it from my car trailer:
I finally had a chance to do a closer inspection of the damage. It looks repairable. The frame that holds the mounts, and the mounts are not bent. You can see how the aft mount on the A-bar or A-frame or whatever that thing is called (can someone tell me the correct terminology??) you can see that it tore out the rubber on the mount, but the mount has not been bent out at all. It looks like the A-bar took the worst damage. You can see how it's twisted. You can also see the axle where it rubbed after it hit and I drove it back to the parking lot. I'm not driving it anymore so that should be fine. I think it also may need a new sway bar along w/ the other things bent up there as you can see in the photos below:
Looks like you need a new control arm and sway bar link. How did the ball joint look?
I will look at it next time I get out to my car. I discussed with my dad what we're going to do about parts, but definitely looks like I didn't bend the frame thank God. Looks like we're gonna replace the parts that are broken/bent, and we've decided to replace the ball join regardless of how it looks. He is going to talk with our mechanic and see about the best way to get each parts. We're thinking about just getting an A-arm off a used car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajkalian
you also have a hose loose, unless it's some type of drain. (??)
That's some sort of a vent. Not entirely sure. I think it might be a vent for the fuel filter? I'll have to go and investigate, but definitely not loose or out of place.
If OP pulls a lower control arm from the junk yard then make sure the bushings are still good. The round one to the rear likes to crack. Or a Dorman new LCA is about $50 on rockauto.
Sway bar link Deeza $15.
Ball joint and outer tie rod - get OEM. Agreed definitely to change them. Check online Toyota dealers or ToyotaPartsman here on TN. Aftermarkets may give you problems.
The subframe's mounting bracket for the LCA rear bushing looks a little bent. But as long as the subframe is ok then maybe start with the above parts. The strut assembly may be fine, but you can always change it later if the mount rubber is torn or the strut tube is deformed from the impact. How's the driveshaft otherwise? Is the steering rack tie rod bent or have any play as you push in/out/left/right/up/down?
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
I will look at it next time I get out to my car. I discussed with my dad what we're going to do about parts, but definitely looks like I didn't bend the frame thank God. Looks like we're gonna replace the parts that are broken/bent, and we've decided to replace the ball join regardless of how it looks. He is going to talk with our mechanic and see about the best way to get each parts. We're thinking about just getting an A-arm off a used car.
That's some sort of a vent. Not entirely sure. I think it might be a vent for the fuel filter? I'll have to go and investigate, but definitely not loose or out of place.
Yeah, you can get a used control arm, just make sure the bushings are good. Go with a Toyota ball joint, save you grief later. You will probably have to remove the knuckle to replace the ball joint, since there is little clearance to get torque on the ball joint nut, look at the sticky for "on car ball joint replacement" if you want to give that a try. Deeza sway bar links are excellent quality, I have lowering springs on and they are holding up great, and they're cheap. Rockauto has them, the sway bar link doesn't have to replaced immediately, so I would get it from them. There is also a 5% discount code that you can use.
Is that vent for the manual transmission, or a diff breather tube?
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