Need help repplacing front wheel hubs and bearings

[cougarhunter]

So I'm waiting for some other suspension parts for my 99 toyota camry four cylinder and I was planning on replacing the front wheel hubs and bearings. Is there a video that shows how you do it on this car or a car that has the same setup as mine. I thought it was like a honda and you press them off with that "claw." Well I got in there and the hub that I was working on and burned the whole day up trying to figure out how to get it off wouldn't come off. Must be a rare thing to do because I'm having a hard time finding a video for this car setup. Thanks for the the help!

[daw22]

Here's a good video on replacing the front wheel bearings. I ended up taking the bearing carrier to a shop and had them press the old bearing out and press the new bearing in.

You Tube

You Tube

[ty**20]

^ oh man. i was gonna post that video too. haha. good'o scotty. i really like his videos because he works majority on import cars.

[JohnGD]

So when you supported the knuckle and try to hammer the hub out (with 1/2 of the inner bearing race) it wouldn't come out? You're not hammering on the inner bearing race itself but on the end of the hub from the inside, right?

See also:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1996133

It's best to pay a shop like $30-40 to replace each side. Also, some hubs may be damaged so it's best to buy a new bearing with a new hub like Timken's kit for the shop to press in.

[cougarhunter]

Originally Posted by daw22

Here's a good video on replacing the front wheel bearings. I ended up taking the bearing carrier to a shop and had them press the old bearing out and press the new bearing in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=197yH...feature=fvwrel

So once I get that whole unit off the axle. Can I take it to a mechanic and have them press it out? I don't have an impact gun or that support thing that he uses to hold the unit up while he pounds the bearing out.

[daw22]

Yup. Take the assembly you removed along with your new parts to a mechanic and they can press the old out and the new in. It'll be a lot cheaper than having them do the whole job.

[BMR]

That's a pretty good video, except he makes it look soooo easy! He never has a problem with a stuck bolt.

The only part of it I'd disagree with is using a pickle fork to separate the tie rod from the knuckle. I've never managed to break them free using one, and always destroy the rubber boot trying. Instead, first try this method in this DIY thread I made, here. If that doesn't work, there's a special pressing tool that I've heard works pretty good. Here's one version. Autozone probably has one in their free tool loaner program.

Oh, and removing the ball joint hex nut as shown in the video is unnecessary, not to mention probably impossible due to poor access until the knuckle is out.

[daw22]

To get the tie rod end off, I agree that a pickle fork is likely to mess up the rubber boot. I used a ball joint separator and it worked fine. (I also used it to get the ball joints themselves out when they needed replacement, but you can't do that until the spindle assembly is out. There isn't room otherwise.) There are lots of ball joint separators out there. Most would probably work fine. The one I used was: "Specialty Products 37985 - SPC 4-Way Ball Joint Separator" that I got from Jegs.

[fenixus]

NEVER use a pickle fork on outer tie rod ends if you want to re-use them! it WILL tear the boot and even if it doesn't half of the grease will squirt out anyways, effectively making it useless anyways.

use this small Pitman Arm puller to separate tie rod ends, Autozone free loaner program:
OEM27022, looks like this:


or better get this Ball joint separator from HFT which also works on the Ball Joints ON THE CAR
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html


here is a DIY on how to replace BJ's on the car without touching the steering knuckle:
DIY camry lower ball joint replacement in situ *PICS*

if you need the puller to remove knuckle from the axle use this:
OEM27037, looking like this:

[cougarhunter]

Just out of curiosity what tools are they using at the shop to press the hub off from the bearings? The places here won't tell me how long it's going to take and will charge me an hourly rate based on the uncertainty of how long of a job it will take. They even said they weren't sure if they had the tools to do it. And I can't leave my car on jack stands overnight as I need my car. As they don't seem to guarantee they can do it in a day. Crazy.

Also is it possible to buy the axle assembly with a new hub and bearing already installed?

[daw22]

I'm not sure what tools they use. I didn't hang around when I had it done. I know that they called me in an hour to tell me it was ready to pick up. I'd call around and find someone else to do it. This is a very common thing to have done and shouldn't be a big mystery for them. They should be able to quote a price.

[BMR]

Originally Posted by cougarhunter

Just out of curiosity what tools are they using at the shop to press the hub off from the bearings? The places here won't tell me how long it's going to take and will charge me an hourly rate based on the uncertainty of how long of a job it will take. They even said they weren't sure if they had the tools to do it. And I can't leave my car on jack stands overnight as I need my car. As they don't seem to guarantee they can do it in a day. Crazy.

Also is it possible to buy the axle assembly with a new hub and bearing already installed?

They might use a hydraulic press, or there are screw-driven presses where an air wrench is used.

Yes, bearings with pre-installed hubs are available. Rockauto.com sells several different brands, ranging from $17 to $70.

[JohnGD]

Find a shop that has a press or a tool like Hub Shark or Hub Tamer. Other shops outsource the work, that's why they can't give you a firm answer. If that's the case find another shop.

They should be able to press it in right in front of you. Wouldn't take 5 minutes for both and that's including the time walking to the press. Really.

You can buy a new steering knuckle (definitely go with OEM if just for quality ball joint and bearing). Not sure what one costs. So you might want to price it out. A new bearing and press work will likely be $80 each side. A new ball joint another $40. A new hub with new wheel studs (if not reusing existing) another $40. That's about $80-$160 depending on parts needed with the existing knuckle.

I'd use Timken brand bearings and hubs. They are selective in what brand they put in their boxes.

Originally Posted by cougarhunter

Just out of curiosity what tools are they using at the shop to press the hub off from the bearings? The places here won't tell me how long it's going to take and will charge me an hourly rate based on the uncertainty of how long of a job it will take. They even said they weren't sure if they had the tools to do it. And I can't leave my car on jack stands overnight as I need my car. As they don't seem to guarantee they can do it in a day. Crazy.

Also is it possible to buy the axle assembly with a new hub and bearing already installed?

[BMR]

Originally Posted by cougarhunter

Also is it possible to buy the axle assembly with a new hub and bearing already installed?

Oh, wait. Are you talking about the knuckle; the big casting that the bearing presses into?... no, that can't be purchased as an assembly as far as I know.

[88 LE]

Originally Posted by cougarhunter

Just out of curiosity what tools are they using at the shop to press the hub off from the bearings?

A press with a big hydraulic jack. See video below, 5 minutes in it shows him using a press.

http://www.youtube.com/jafromobile#p/u/7/jUBIAIDu9-I


Dry ice to freeze and reinstall hub:

http://www.youtube.com/jafromobile#p/u/6/OiCTYJiem0U


The first video also shows one method (cut and split with chisel) to remove the bearing race from the hub.

For removing the tie rod from the knuckle, hit what the ball joint goes through with a big hammer. This also works on anything else with a ball joint. In this case you hit the knuckle, since the ball joint on the tie rod goes through it. The stud / threaded portion of a ball joint is tapered, so hitting what it goes through with a hammer jars it loose.