3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Because my car was still idling rough after putting in a gen4 dogbone motor mount, I deep creeped my IACV and throttle body. They were pretty dirty, and all appeared to go well, except after putting everything together, it's now idling at 1200-ish rpm's.
I checked the vacuum tubes, 5 in all...3 in a row along the top, one thick one to the valve cover and one thin one going to a vacuum-looking device behind the throttle cable. The thick one from the valve cover to throttle body has a little crack at the valve cover, and that's the only issue I could find.
I don't know what else to check. Any suggestions?
__________________
1994 Camry LE
4 cyl 2.2L 5SFE, 180k miles, tan
Last edited by WaxonWaxStillOn; 10-15-2011 at 05:37 PM.
first make sure you re-connected all air and vacuum hoses tightly and you didn't create a vacuum leak (it raises idle speed).
then reset the ECU by pulling out the blue 15A EFI fuse from the Main Fuse Box under hood (driver side), for 2 minutes, then re-insert it. it will not reset the clock or radio, just the ECU memory. it will take a few days of driving for it to relearn everything.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
The Following User Says Thank You to fenixus For This Useful Post:
first make sure you re-connected all air and vacuum hoses tightly and you didn't create a vacuum leak (it raises idle speed).
then reset the ECU by pulling out the blue 15A EFI fuse from the Main Fuse Box under hood (driver side), for 2 minutes, then re-insert it. it will not reset the clock or radio, just the ECU memory. it will take a few days of driving for it to relearn everything.
Great, thanks fenixus. I did what you suggested, hoses seem fine, and reset the fuse. The idle is down to ~1050 (from 1200 actually...was reading tach wrong.) I'll keep an eye on it and see how it does over the next few days of driving.
__________________
1994 Camry LE
4 cyl 2.2L 5SFE, 180k miles, tan
Ive seen people use too much throttle body cleaner and F up the IAC motor,
you might try disconnecting the battery and letting the ECU relearn the values.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaxonWaxStillOn
Because my car was still idling rough after putting in a gen4 dogbone motor mount, I deep creeped my IACV and throttle body. They were pretty dirty, and all appeared to go well, except after putting everything together, it's now idling at 1200-ish rpm's.
I checked the vacuum tubes, 5 in all...3 in a row along the top, one thick one to the valve cover and one thin one going to a vacuum-looking device behind the throttle cable. The thick one from the valve cover to throttle body has a little crack at the valve cover, and that's the only issue I could find.
I don't know what else to check. Any suggestions?
The Following User Says Thank You to Oh6War For This Useful Post:
If you're sure there is no false air entry, then cover the IAC port on the intake side and see if the engine slows/stalls. You may have to take it apart to clean it again like this: 5sfe IAC Removal (lots of pictures)
The vane rotor needs to be able to spin freely. As far as the thermostat spring goes, it only opens the vane when cold. As it warms up then the vane goes into a free moving range and is not affected by the spring. Just lift the cover plate straight up so you don't shift the position of the spring.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaxonWaxStillOn
Great, thanks fenixus. I did what you suggested, hoses seem fine, and reset the fuse. The idle is down to ~1050 (from 1200 actually...was reading tach wrong.) I'll keep an eye on it and see how it does over the next few days of driving.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
Ive seen people use too much throttle body cleaner and F up the IAC motor,
you might try disconnecting the battery and letting the ECU relearn the values.
Wouldn't that be the same as removing the ECU fuse for a few minutes?
__________________
1994 Camry LE
4 cyl 2.2L 5SFE, 180k miles, tan
If you're sure there is no false air entry, then cover the IAC port on the intake side and see if the engine slows/stalls. You may have to take it apart to clean it again like this: 5sfe IAC Removal (lots of pictures)
The vane rotor needs to be able to spin freely. As far as the thermostat spring goes, it only opens the vane when cold. As it warms up then the vane goes into a free moving range and is not affected by the spring. Just lift the cover plate straight up so you don't shift the position of the spring.
I'd like to see how the idle reacts to the ECU being reset, then if the idle doesn't return properly, I'll do as you suggested and manually blocking the iac port (if that's ill-advised.) Is it working properly if the engine slows/stalls when blocked (I'm guessing so), or is it the other way around?
The vane rotor seems to turn freely, atleast to the extent that it will turn when cold, which is probably less than 45 degrees total. I took a couple pictures of the rotor manually turned with my thumb to it's limit in either direction (before I cleaned it). Is this the proper rotation limit when cold?
Manually opened, to the point of the spring's resistance:
limit when manually closed:
__________________
1994 Camry LE
4 cyl 2.2L 5SFE, 180k miles, tan
Last edited by WaxonWaxStillOn; 10-16-2011 at 01:21 AM.
The idle is much closer to what it was after resetting the ecu and driving ~15 miles. Currently it is 875 in park, 800 in Drive. I've never seen a 750 idle, usually is 800 in Drive and about 825 in park.
It still idles a little rough while stopped in Drive, but I'm not too concerned about it since it seems lots of people have this issue. I hoped for more direct results after cleaning the iacv, but atleast it's clean now.
I might need a new distrib cap and rotor, and probably could benefit from the injectors being cleaned/synced, things I'd like to address in the near future.
__________________
1994 Camry LE
4 cyl 2.2L 5SFE, 180k miles, tan
Last edited by WaxonWaxStillOn; 10-16-2011 at 08:00 PM.
Yeah, that's good enough for now. If you have a scanner and the fuel trim is pegged positive then you probably have an air leak that causes the higher rpms.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
Yeah, that's good enough for now. If you have a scanner and the fuel trim is pegged positive then you probably have an air leak that causes the higher rpms.
I don't have a scanner yet, but that's good information and gives me something to investigate more thoroughly next time I'm in there (and something to review when I get a scanner.)
__________________
1994 Camry LE
4 cyl 2.2L 5SFE, 180k miles, tan
800rpm is the upper range of norm on gen3. OE specs call for 750+/-50 on gen3 camry, so you are not too much off. give it a few more days of driving to see if maybe it returns to middle of specs on its own. ECU learns your drive style all the time, it might have had a problem with re-learning the controls of IAC after it was cleaned
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
The Following User Says Thank You to fenixus For This Useful Post:
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