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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-16-2011, 01:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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3rd Generation Flex pipe repair

I want to give as much possible information in my first post to avoid any unnecessary questions. I will also try to keep it short.

I'm driving a 98 2.2L Camry. With CALI emissions. (However, I'm in Delaware and don't plan on selling the car in California).

There's a crack down the length of the flex pipe -- creating PLENTY of "vroom" noise when accelerating. (How do I know? There's no more braiding -- so I can visually see the rippled pipe)

Toyota's solution as we all know: Replace the whole pipe ~ $1500.

I went to my local Meineke -- Mark said he could replace just the flex section only - cut the old one out, weld a new piece in. (New piece would be something like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Exhaust-Flex-Pipe-2-x-8-Heavy-Duty-Steel-12-OL-/170686684923?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &vxp=mtr&hash=item27bdb81efb)

I decided that would be an "ok" option. I think I could work with him on the price a bit. I decided to keep looking.

Now I found the Direct Fit Converter kits that are from bolt to bolt from the headers to the resonator. Hrm. Bolts might be a lil stiff, but that's something I can probably do myself. And then I'd have a new catalytic converter.

Now the questions:
Obviously not as quality as an Toyota OEM Cat, but can these be trustworthy?

I'm even willing to go a bit further into the wallet for a name brand such as Magnaflow ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnaflow-23750-Direct-Fit-Catalytic-Converter-/300539267798?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Year%3A1998|Model%3ACamry&vxp=mtr&hash=item4 5f9894ad6)

Looking into these sorts of Direct Fit items, they often say that they're FED standard and not for sale in the State of California -- but however don't mention anything about being compatible with CALI spec'd vehicles. (I did find ONE -- JUST ONE -- that did mention it wouldn't fit properly -- although on Magnaflow's official site it doesn't mention anything).

To see the Toyota OEM items visit here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_199...PNKA_1702.html

The first two 17410 - xxxxx are the items in question. And just by that, they are two different items (My guess is simply because of the catalytic converter, not because of the dimensions of the piping itself) In addition, I obviously don't want to pay that much for this item on a car of this age.

Ultimately, will I be good with the 49 State/Fed spec'd direct fit catalytic converter sets?

(And on a side note -- Is there's a swanky parts diagram website someone has that I can visual see what some of the parts are - so I can cross reference. There are some hangers/brackets that hold the exhaust close to the body and based on visual rust I don't know that they'll survive any work that will be done underneath).
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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"I went to my local Meineke -- Mark said he could replace just the flex section only - cut the old one out, weld a new piece in"

That's a common and acceptable repair to replace the flex pipe. I had it done to my 94 5SFE engine a few years ago. Cost in the Chicago area was $150.

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Old 10-16-2011, 03:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I/we do it almost every day. and the flex is from NAPA. its a perfect repair and reasonable.
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Old 10-16-2011, 03:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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that's the only way to do it unless someone goes to dealer and replaces the whole exhaust because of it LOL

I paid like $140 in North-Eastern NJ for same (parts and labor).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
"I went to my local Meineke -- Mark said he could replace just the flex section only - cut the old one out, weld a new piece in"

That's a common and acceptable repair to replace the flex pipe. I had it done to my 94 5SFE engine a few years ago. Cost in the Chicago area was $150.

Mike
also California emission spec cars were sold in many other states along the East Coast and actually all Toyotas made for US market past 2000 are always Calif emission specs (50 state cars). It has nothing to do with the fact that you live in Delaware.

also all Solaras (99-01) I've seen in USA were always Calif emission specs.
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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if you want to fix this yourself, the local autozone sells flex pipe sections for $25 and clamps for about $3 each (you need 2). measure to be sure, but im pretty sure the flex section replacement needs to have a 2" inner diameter and all you have to do is cut out the old section and clamp in the new.
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Old 10-16-2011, 10:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I know I COULD clamp it...but SHOULD I? Is that honestly an acceptable fix? I'd be happier with a weld -- although I'm not comfortable enough to do it myself.

I suppose for about 30 bucks, I could see how it works out with the clamps and if I'm not comfortable, I can get someone to weld it for a cleaner seal.

My thought on this whole matter is that my car is nearing its 100k Mileday and wondering what kind of life the catalytic converter still has in it. Why shouldn't I get the whole Direct Fit piece?

And if I did get the new one, I'd be able to salvage my old one...wouldn't I? I've heard a recycled Cat can fetch 50-100 bucks. Any truth behind this?
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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About to do this on my ES300 as well. Leaking flex pipe.

Is it better to have the whole exhaust out? Do I just unbolt it from the exhaust manifold, disconnect the sensors and that's it?
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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you can repair it right on the car. You shouldnt have to remove any sensors either
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Old 01-01-2012, 12:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Update: Pipe fixed

Ok. I just wanted to post that yesterday I fixed the flex pipe with the help of a friend.

We ran into a few "hiccups".

First, there is a clamp located at the front of the flex pipe, so you can't cut the pipe cleanly without first removing the clamp. But how do you do it? Well, its secured to the vehicle with a nut, the bolt comes through from somewhere...and barely any wiggle room to pull it away. So..if your bolts aren't rusted TOO bad, you might be able to get the lower half of the clamp off and somehow twist the top portion to remove it.

How did we do it? We took a grinder to one of the bolts, that freed up one side, bent it all the way around and it left us a nice section to start banging on with a hammer. FUN. It came off.

Now I tried a "Tail Pipe Cutter" from Autozone -- Its free to rent, why not right? Well, you need some sort of KungFu Grip to keep this thing in place, and the proper pressure to cut all the way through. I was able to use it just enough to get a nice groove to use a sawzall.

Now the flex is off. Well, we cut kind of close to the old pipe, which is tapered down - not sure the exact size..but definitely smaller than what everyone recommends as far as the 2" I.D. We cut close, just so that we didn't OVER do it.

Now be careful when you go to cut further back...you don't want to cut off too much material that your pipe is too short.

10" here is just about right. However a 12" probably would have worked just as well. Weld as best you can with limited access to the top of the pipe -- clamp if you must, but I can't imagine sealing up all air leaks -- there's always going to be a gap.

No leaks for me...whisper quite car. I didn't know my car was this quiet.

I can usually hear it inside my house when I start it using my remote starter.....Now I can't. I can barely hear it when its warmed up and I'm 10 feet away.

Thanks Wes! (he's my bud that helped me out).

Best of luck to everyone else.

I know this post was a lil silly and a bit long, but I hope just my story of every thing I experienced can help someone with their DIY fix on their vehicle. Cheers!
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Old 01-01-2012, 03:41 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Good to hear you were able to take care of it. I was (somewhat still am) dealing with a similar issue a short while ago.

Did you happen to take any pictures?
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I did not take any pictures....our phones stayed on the workbench away from flying debris and tools ;-)

So sorry.

When/IF I change my oil soon (I put a heavier weight in when I changed it last and since the temp is dropping drastically now I should probably go to the 5W) I'll try to remember and snap a few photos while I'm underneath to point out everything I mentioned.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have 258000 on my 98. Still have the original cat. Replaced both o2 sensors in the past year. I would not worry about the cat at all. When it fails the smog test, then it will be time to change it.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adhum View Post
I did not take any pictures....our phones stayed on the workbench away from flying debris and tools ;-)

So sorry.

When/IF I change my oil soon (I put a heavier weight in when I changed it last and since the temp is dropping drastically now I should probably go to the 5W) I'll try to remember and snap a few photos while I'm underneath to point out everything I mentioned.
No problem at all. I just thought if you happened to have any, I'd compare to see if that's where my issue was too.

In hindsight, I should have probably taken some the first time it was at the shop on the lift when they spot-welded it (the area where the flex pipe connects with the cat was separated right at the cat).
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adhum View Post
I did not take any pictures....our phones stayed on the workbench away from flying debris and tools ;-)

So sorry.

When/IF I change my oil soon (I put a heavier weight in when I changed it last and since the temp is dropping drastically now I should probably go to the 5W) I'll try to remember and snap a few photos while I'm underneath to point out everything I mentioned.
It would be appreciated if you posted where you purchased the flex pipe, size and product #.
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