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Old 10-18-2011, 02:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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slow/lazy gear shifting 1mz w/ A541E, cold shifting problem, kick down adj helped

Just wanted to share something.

Some time ago my 1mz started shifting gears (automatic) in a very lazy fashion, almost felt like gears slipping, especially the overdrive.

It was also a problem when driving the car cold, I was having trouble making it shift into 3rd gear, usually up to 35mph it was still sticking to the 2nd gear (almost 3k rpm - very annoying) until engine warmed up a bit, then it was shifting better like allowing 3rd gear in city driving and then overdrive. To make it shift to 3rd gear I had to accelerate to like 40mph (in city), I was actually starting to worry about transmission in my car....

I remember adjusting the throttle cable (kick down cable) on 5s-fe like making sure the stopper on this cable sits flush with rubber grommet (or stopper sticking out of rubber by no more than 0-1mm), which really helped me with restoring optimum between gear shifting time and smoothness ...

Now, kill me, but I can't remember if I messed with that cable on my 1mz or not before, however yesterday I modded it a little pretty much just as Toysrme describes in his thread here.

On my car, this is BEFORE adjustment:


On my car, this is AFTER adjustment:


Hmmmm, gears are again shifting quickly (a little harsher between 1 & 2), easily downshifting upon acceleration (was a slight problem with that recently, needed to almost floor it to make a downshift, especially on regular fuel).

Also this morning I tested it at cold driving, meaning I started the car cold (50F ambient), waited maybe 20-30 seconds and drove away - that's what I always do
This time I had no problem into making the car shift into 3rd gear, it did that quickly the moment I hit 30mph (maybe 2.5k rpm) <- That's how I like it

trying to find pictures in FSM about that cable adjustment, but I see only something like this (screenie from A541E, regarding stopper placement), but I know there was another one somewhere else also (Haynes has it):


EDIT:
for comparison, this is the procedure for OEM specs throttle (kick down) cable adjustment, note how the metal stopper is supposed to sit in the rubber grommet (can stick out by no more than 1mm).

I adjusted 5s-fe like that and it's OK (kinda lazy downshifting to my taste, but oh well, I don't drive that car usually hehe).

Only problem is that I found that pic in one of my older threads, but I have no idea where I took it from originally ... cannot find that now in SFI nor in transmission manuals.

Hope it helps!
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Old 10-18-2011, 03:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thx Fenixus! I was vaguely aware of this from reading Toysrme's posts a long time ago; kinda spaced it out. My Camry's a bit too hesitant to downshift.
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Old 10-18-2011, 03:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah, no probs, I resurrected that mod only because I didn't like the way my 1mz-fe downshifts (and upshifts when it's cold).

Normally, you keep it stock, if you don't mind
On 5s-fe I have this cable at OEM settings and it feels fine for daily driving, but it has a slow downshift issue as well. thankfully 5s-fe doesn't experience the problematic cold upshift problem (it warms up very fast unlike 1mz).

In past I modded it over there too, but I didn't like the harshness of shifts, so I backed off to norm. Shifts are not too harsh on 1mz-fe/A541E so I guess it will stay like this here I like it

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Thx Fenixus! I was vaguely aware of this from reading Toysrme's posts a long time ago; kinda spaced it out. My Camry's a bit too hesitant to downshift.
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4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just remembered my Cam's got a diff tranny; A540E, not A541E. I'm gonna assume it's the same, as far as this adjustment, eh?

Edit: just went back and checked Toysrme's thread. Yup, same adjustment.
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Last edited by BMR; 10-18-2011 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 10-18-2011, 06:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I remember adjusting the stopper barely sits out of the rubber. I just start the car in the morning, immediately put it in D and go, surprisingly the transmission shifts just as smooth when cold, it does shift into 3rd at 2500rpm but still smooth as butter.
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Old 10-18-2011, 06:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yup, same thing

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR View Post
Just remembered my Cam's got a diff tranny; A540E, not A541E. I'm gonna assume it's the same, as far as this adjustment, eh?

Edit: just went back and checked Toysrme's thread. Yup, same adjustment.
yeah, I had it like that before, but I hate the shift lag when cold, also on highway it takes more pressing on the pedal to make it downshift.

now when returning from work I felt the shifts as a bit harsh (not too harsh though), but then again my "cold" means 30-50F and your "cold" means like 70-80F, eh?

I may loosen the tension on cable a bit (maybe 1 turn of the nut) to smooth it out a tad, but it shifts much better now anyways, I love the quick downshift!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun View Post
I remember adjusting the stopper barely sits out of the rubber. I just start the car in the morning, immediately put it in D and go, surprisingly the transmission shifts just as smooth when cold, it does shift into 3rd at 2500rpm but still smooth as butter.
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'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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OK, I've adjusted mine. Here's the before & then after shots below. I didn't go quite as far as you did, Fenixus. Looks like 4 or 5 threads change. I just went for a short drive. The engine was still warm from my commute home, so I don't know how it feels with a cold start. Shifting into D with the engine idling at 800, I couldn't really feel it bumping into gear any differently than before. Nice. It downshifts a *lot* more readily now; maybe too much so. Cruising at 35 or so, the slightest increase in throttle will get it to downshift. Punch the throttle down halfway, and it'll drop two gears now; BANG, BANG! Under normal acceleration throttle, shifts are just a little bit firmer. Under WOT, it's noticeably firmer. Maybe too much. I'm gonna drive it this way for a while and see how I like it... Might back it off just a scosche.



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Old 10-18-2011, 10:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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hee hee, glad I was able to inspire someone however all compliments to toysrme

yeah, I went too far. it was written somewhere in toysrme thread that around 2-3 threads should be left ... well I left like 1 LOL
will fix it tomorrow after work, need to regain some more smoothness, shifting between 1 & 2 is a bit too harsh (car even jumps a little while driving LOL!), however shifting to and from parking gear is still OK.

I also noticed that at OEM setting, you kick down cable is loose, shows significant slack. mine has slack on it too at OEM setting, but not that much. I wonder if this cable stretches over time/miles (it surely can do), so maybe we are actually supposed to compensate for the slack even at OEM setting?

anyways, I need to back off around 2-3 threads.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah, I thought it looked like it had slack in it too. But it's still there after tightening the cable by 4 threads (just a bit less). So I think it's just a permanent bend there. I tried straightening it out, but it won't go away. I'm guessing when the cable gets pulled and wraps around that arc-shaped thingy, that bend flips 180 as it winds up. Make sense?
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yup, it does wind up around the throttle wheel thing, especially at WOT.
just wondering if that slack is really necessary ... well I don't have one now at my setting, it's tight (can see in pic no.2) ... but this is too tight for a comfortable ride, so yeah maybe some slack is necessary after all.

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Yeah, I thought it looked like it had slack in it too. But it's still there after tightening the cable by 4 threads (just a bit less). So I think it's just a permanent bend there. I tried straightening it out, but it won't go away. I'm guessing when the cable gets pulled and wraps around that arc-shaped thingy, that bend flips 180 as it winds up. Make sense?
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4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:03 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I was wondering about that too. I think the cable, like the parking brake cable in the other thread, probably stretches too.

The most accurate way to adjust is probably using a line pressure gauge. But for most DIYers a couple of mm is probably good enough.

The first picture you posted is for a new cable without the cable stake. After it's installed and the boot put back on it's 0-1mm out (when new). I don't know maybe 1-2 or even 2-3 as it ages??


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I wonder if this cable stretches over time/miles (it surely can do), so maybe we are actually supposed to compensate for the slack even at OEM setting?
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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yup, that's what I figured too. and yes the first pic/diagram was for staking the stopper on new cable. the second one shows adjustment (stopper in grommet).

will re-adjust it today after work (similar 2-3mm out as BMR did) to see if shifting can smooth out while still staying sharp on downshift and such. I like quickshifts, but what I have now is probably good for racing the car and not driving it daily LOL

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I was wondering about that too. I think the cable, like the parking brake cable in the other thread, probably stretches too.

The most accurate way to adjust is probably using a line pressure gauge. But for most DIYers a couple of mm is probably good enough.

The first picture you posted is for a new cable without the cable stake. After it's installed and the boot put back on it's 0-1mm out (when new). I don't know maybe 1-2 or even 2-3 as it ages??
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Two more observations on my drive to work this morning; in some situations, it actually shifts smoother because the shifting behavior is changed.

1) Going up a slight grade with the cruise set at 45 MPH. It used to start to lug a while and then downshift with a pop. Now it downshifts at the slightest sign of lugging, and does it much smoother. On one of the steeper hills, it actually downshifted twice where it never did so before.

2) I have a habit of accelerating briskly up to the speed limit, and then letting off the gas. It often used to upshift with a pronounced bump as I was letting up on the gas pedal. Annoying because my brain is expecting the acceleration to let up, but instead I get an accel bump. It doesn't do that now, because it's already in the gear it needs to be when I let up on the gas.

I like it even more now. I may leave it adjusted where it is.

BTW, my Cam has lived its entire life with the ECT "PWR" button turned on. All of my comments thus far are with that likewise.
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:15 AM   #14 (permalink)
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^ nice !

I can't wait to re-adjust mine, hopefully my sweet spot is around where yours is (would make it easy hehe). Once there I want to leave it too.

I believe the cable is stretched loose and this partial adjustment is actually required to restore the proper gear shifting on old cars.

I also have a couple very steep hills that I climb up almost every day, it's a annoying to go up the hill using too high gear. one of reasons why I need that adjustment too

I don't have the Power button on shifter, not sure what it does on gen3.
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'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

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Old 10-19-2011, 10:30 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I agree with you on the cable stretching. These old cars probably need a bit of adjustment to get things back to what they should be.

There's a sticky thread that describes what the PWR button does. I'm surprised your Solara doesn't have it?! In a nutshell, it raises the upshift RPM at partial throttle settings, and makes it downshift more readily. At WOT it does nothing.
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2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
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