3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I started smelling gas a week ago and have a CEL 440 (Evap leak) for a while. VSVs are checked, no rust etc. Finally I gave up and took the car to the dealer. As they walked around the car, they smelled gas. Without even checking anything else, their first response is "it is the charcoal canistor, lets repalce that". I thought they are going to hook up the smoke machine and figure out where the leak is coming from. No sir.
They want $500 for the canister replacement.
So my questions are:
1. for gas smell and code 440, the default/first is to replace the canister?
2. I know my vsvs (both) are good, they click when 12v is applied.
3. If i remove the canister myself, how can I test it. p0440/0441/0446 twice, which is A and B port.
4. Is it worth trying to make a DIY smoke machine and hook up to see if i have a leak
5. Should I try junk yard and get the vsvs and canister from the junk yard?
6. If I have to buy the canister, should I get the OEM or get one from autozone/napa/advanced etc?
2000 camry LE, 4 cyl, 83K low low miles, no rust anywhere.
I started smelling gas a week ago and have a CEL 440 (Evap leak) for a while. VSVs are checked, no rust etc. Finally I gave up and took the car to the dealer. As they walked around the car, they smelled gas. Without even checking anything else, their first response is "it is the charcoal canistor, lets repalce that". I thought they are going to hook up the smoke machine and figure out where the leak is coming from. No sir.
They want $500 for the canister replacement.
So my questions are:
1. for gas smell and code 440, the default/first is to replace the canister?
2. I know my vsvs (both) are good, they click when 12v is applied.
3. If i remove the canister myself, how can I test it. p0440/0441/0446 twice, which is A and B port.
4. Is it worth trying to make a DIY smoke machine and hook up to see if i have a leak
5. Should I try junk yard and get the vsvs and canister from the junk yard?
2000 camry LE, 4 cyl, 83K low low miles, no rust anywhere.
Please help me...
John
Check the filler neck from the gas cap down to the tank... Fill the car up with gas first and check really well for rust and dampness all around it... I have replaced a few of these... They will set a P0440 code. ----------- You will most likely need to remove a plastic cover to see the top of the filler neck inside the wheel well...
Last edited by beantickler; 10-19-2011 at 09:22 PM.
I did check the filler tube by removing the tire and then the plastic guard. There are no rust and visually the filler neck has no issues, dents, cracks etc.
When I checked the filler tube, the tank was NOT filled fully. So I will check this again after a full tank
A P0440 is a gross leak (atmospheric pressure) in the fuel tank side of the evap system... A few possible causes are the vapor pressure vsv located right by the gas tank and canister. An active test with a Toyota scan tool can diagnose this. Also the hoses on top of the tank can leak(rust). Check the gas cap on an emission machine gas cap test to be sure you don't have a bad cap.
Usually when the canister is involved a P0441 code is pending or hard set with the P0440...
A P0440 is a gross leak (atmospheric pressure) in the fuel tank side of the evap system... A few possible causes are the vapor pressure vsv located right by the gas tank and canister. An active test with a Toyota scan tool can diagnose this. Also the hoses on top of the tank can leak(rust). Check the gas cap on an emission machine gas cap test to be sure you don't have a bad cap.
Usually when the canister is involved a P0441 code is pending or hard set with the P0440...
Gas cap is OEM and is tested fine (I swapped this cap with brother's identical camry. His car is running without the code for months now. So it is not the cap.
vsv is clicking when 12v is applied. Eventhough it is clicking may be it is bad? I can swap that to my brother's and try that if it is needed
Does this car have a canister in the rear fender well with a lot of hoses attached? This is where I found my problem on a 1989 Land Cruiser.
Canister is located below the rear seat, not in the rear fender. I see a lot of rubber hoses and some electrical connections though. All hoses looks ok, no visible crack or anything. Car underside is almost mint, no rust or anything (car has been in texas its entire life)
Gas cap is OEM and is tested fine (I swapped this cap with brother's identical camry. His car is running without the code for months now. So it is not the cap.
vsv is clicking when 12v is applied. Eventhough it is clicking may be it is bad? I can swap that to my brother's and try that if it is needed
Sure you can swap but let me warn you first... lol... The screw that holds this vsv in is a MOTHER F*&%$R... You will most likely break the bracket off or round the screw head or both... We use zip ties to put it all back together when this happens. Its not a huge deal but is is kinda mickey mouse. An active test with proper leak detection is my first choice but swapping them is always an option. With evap on our Toyota's the evap test to set the MIL can take days to set so the swap will have to stay in for a week or 2 to be 100% sure.
A clicking vsv is almost never a good check to see if they work. I know this from experience...
If you should need a charcoal canister, I offer TN members 30% off MSRP and only charge actual shipping costs plus $2.00 for materials etc. I sell genuine Toyota OEM parts and am an Authorized Toyota Dealer and a Supporting Vendor here on the forum.
In any event, whether you buy from me or not, good luck to you in getting your situation resolved.
Sure you can swap but let me warn you first... lol... The screw that holds this vsv in is a MOTHER F*&%$R... You will most likely break the bracket off or round the screw head or both... We use zip ties to put it all back together when this happens. Its not a huge deal but is is kinda mickey mouse. An active test with proper leak detection is my first choice but swapping them is always an option. With evap on our Toyota's the evap test to set the MIL can take days to set so the swap will have to stay in for a week or 2 to be 100% sure.
A clicking vsv is almost never a good check to see if they work. I know this from experience...
True, I already stripped that sucker once.
I will swap and see if that is the cause.
In case I need the new canister, is after market an option?
I know tpm is giving 30% off, so may be that is better ?
Using aftermarket parts is your call... I have had success with them and also headaches with them. I don't think u will end up needing a canister though... Like I said I am fairly confident without other codes pending the leak will be on the tank side...
LOL... No... That thing is funny though... That is for a vacuum leak detection. You would need a bunch more smoke for evap... And anyhow to do a correct smoke test on your car you need to be able to command certain vsv's open and closed to check each part of the system without misdiagnosis...
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