3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
This is what rock auto has. I don't remember either of the two rods having an open end on them. What do you call the front rear arms and what do you call the trailing rear arms? Are these the best prices for these parts or have people seem them for better elsewhere?
Also the bolts that come through where these rods attach in the middle.. What are they called and is it one long bolt? I am afraid I am going to have to cut them out as they are rusted as sh!t.. I wanted to order the new ones before I messed with the old ones..
Also the bolts that come through where these rods attach in the middle.. What are they called and is it one long bolt? I am afraid I am going to have to cut them out as they are rusted as sh!t.. I wanted to order the new ones before I messed with the old ones..
I suspect that Amazon listing has the wrong pic. A google search on that Eibach p/n yields this.
And yes, those bolts are one long bolt. I haven't messed with 'em, but other folks that have say that because they pull out towards the gas tank, you have to drop the tank to get them all the way out.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
So you have to drop the gas tank to change the front control rods or whatever they are called? That is the stupid thing I have ever heard.. I mean that Toyota would make it so you have to drop a gas tank to change suspension parts!!!
Anybody know what the actual names of the 4 rods are? It looks like I am just going to have to try and replace the back/trailing ones because I am not dropping the gas tank to replace the front ones..
Toyota calls them suspension lower control rod #1 & suspension lower control rod #2, or something close to that. #2 is the rear-most one, the one with the turnbuckle in it; used to adjust toe in/out.
One guy who changed his out (Mr. Perkins) mentioned that when he put his back together, he put those bolts in the opposite way, so he wouldn't have to drop the gas tank ever again for that reason. Seems to me you could avoid dropping the tank if you cut the heads off those bolts & drove 'em out the easy direction (probably easier said than done). Then install the bolts reversed?
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
I may be able to cut them a couple times as I pull them out.
The list of names on rock auto is lateral link, track bar, trailing arm (which I believe is the one that goes front to back instead of from the center of the car outward), and they are listed under control arm.
Do I need 2 of the rear lower front and then one of the rear left and rear right ones of these?
MEVOTECH Part # MS86189 USA BUILT; Rear Right Lower Rear
$42.79Add to Cart MEVOTECH Part # MS86190 USA BUILT; Rear Left Lower Rear
$42.79Add to Cart MEVOTECH Part # MS86186 REAR LOWER FRONT (Only 4 Remaining)
$42.79Add to Cart
The list of names on rock auto is lateral link, track bar, trailing arm (which I believe is the one that goes front to back instead of from the center of the car outward), and they are listed under control arm.
Do I need 2 of the rear lower front and then one of the rear left and rear right ones of these?
Yup. That's what you need. Looks to me like Rockauto is giving the same parts under three different names. They're a bit confusing that way; seen it before.
You might have to go to the dealership for the bolts. I couldn't find 'em on Rockauto.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
I just replaced the two rear arms on my 1996 Avalon. The 2 center bolts were impossible to undo. What I finally did that worked pretty quickly was use a high speed air cut off tool (On sale for $6.99 at harbor freight) to cut off one side of each of the bolts. You stop when you just kiss the threads. Then use a chisel to open up the nut and off it comes. I did use a thread restorer (M14-1.5) that I borrowed from Auto Zone to clean up the threads. Once you do that, the 2 long bolts slide in and out easily (but of course only slide forward as far as the gas tank). If you need to replace the front 2 arms, what I would do would be to slide the 2 bolts forward so you can cut them off below the head (and below those cup shaped washers). Once you do that, you can pull the bolts out from the back. When you reassemble, put the bolt in from the back.
So these bolts #9090109001 and the nuts #9017914019 are unbelievable expensive.. $28 for the bolt locally ($22 online plus crazy shipping) and $3.00 for the nut.. I NEED 4 OF THESE!!! That is insane... Over $120 for 4 bolts and 4 nuts... I thought Honda was bad..
Yikes! That's crazy. I'd say try a well-stocked hardware store. And not only match up the size, but also get high strength bolts. Not likely to find them at any of the big-box stores. The bolts shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks each.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The inner two nuts are usually a lot more of a problem to get off than the outer two. If the outer 2 won't come off, you can grind and chisel the nuts off, then drive the bolt all the way out from back to front, since the gas tank isn't in the way for the outer 2 bolts. I'll try to post some pictures of removing the nuts. I have no idea if the pictures will work or not.
First I tried to use a nut splitter, which was a failure, but it did create a notch in the bolt that may have helped later.
Then I used a high speed cut off tool
Then I used a cold chisel. The notch from the bolt splitter may have helped here.
I bought all 4 parts to replace this and then looked for the bolts.... I looked at the outer bolts and they definitely don't look as bad as the inner frame ones.. I will just have to suck it up and buy them.. How hard is it to drop the sub frame on these? Is it just those 4 large bolts that hold it on?
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MEVOTECH Part # MS86190 
1999 Toyota Avalon
Linear Mode
