3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I wanted to know how much are you guys are able to get out of your V6 Camry's on a full tank. I usually buy half a tank of gas and I average around 250KM (city + highway driving). The best I got recently was 380KM on a tank that was almost full (filled 3/4ths). I usually by the highest octane 91, but recently I've been using 89 octane. I don't see much difference between the two, but I sometimes think that I get a bit more kilometers out of 89 octane since I get more gas. Anyways, my check engine light is still on indicating that an oxygen sensor needs to be replaced. Last time I did emissions testing this car scored horribly and barely passed. Anyways, just wanted to know what is the best kilometers on a full tank that this V6 can make?
The Following User Says Thank You to Toyota343 For This Useful Post:
I wanted to know how much are you guys are able to get out of your V6 Camry's on a full tank. I usually buy half a tank of gas and I average around 250KM (city + highway driving). The best I got recently was 380KM on a tank that was almost full (filled 3/4ths).
Poor way to calculate mileage/kileage, unless you drive it til it stalls. Best to jot down odometer after fill then new odometer after refill and distance traveled.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Poor way to calculate mileage/kileage, unless you drive it til it stalls. Best to jot down odometer after fill then new odometer after refill and distance traveled.
This is the proper way to do it.
Can't just eyeball it and expect it to be realistically accurate.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBO Das Automagazin
A BRZ, a curvy mountain road makes one liter of happiness hormones.
yeah, you need to calculate it at the pump when you refill (don't top off, let it click off and done), you should have the amount of fuel used since last refill on the receipt at gas station (the amount you poured in).
use/check your odo/trip meter to know how many kilometers you traveled since last fill up, then you just divide Km travelled by fuel used (in litres I guess).
what you get is the KPL (Kilometers Per Liter)
gen3 camry 1mz-fe engines are rated at 16MPG (14.7L/100Km) city driving and 23MPG (10.2L/100Km) highway driving (updated EPA, not the dealer/factory rated eons ago): http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.htm
newer 1mz-fe are slightly better rated (17MPG or 13.84L/100Km in city and 24MPG or 9.8L/100Km on highway), but I usually get around 28MPG or 8.4L/100Km on highways, and I do not drive like a grandpa usually on long trips
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
I wanted to know how much are you guys are able to get out of your V6 Camry's on a full tank. I usually buy half a tank of gas and I average around 250KM (city + highway driving). The best I got recently was 380KM on a tank that was almost full (filled 3/4ths). I usually by the highest octane 91, but recently I've been using 89 octane. I don't see much difference between the two, but I sometimes think that I get a bit more kilometers out of 89 octane since I get more gas. Anyways, my check engine light is still on indicating that an oxygen sensor needs to be replaced. Last time I did emissions testing this car scored horribly and barely passed. Anyways, just wanted to know what is the best kilometers on a full tank that this V6 can make?
Hi, Toyota343,
I have a 1994 with V6 engine and I have the exact same concern and also problem as yours. I use octane 91 and a full tank average out less than 400km. This is the average figure over a year with mostly city driving and short hauls of less than 20km one way. Recently, The check engine light come on and the scan code is 0135 which is the oxygen sensor code. It passed the emission test last year but the results were at the marginal level. I doubt it will pass again on the next round if I don't replace the sensor. The car is 18 years old but has only 165000 km on it. I also take very good care of it as I plan to keep it for a long long time.
As with the lit up engine light, my friend told me to use fuel injection cleaner for the next few tank of gas. Then he will clear the code for me to see if the light will come back on again before I decide to spend bout $500 to replace the sensor. Some say the octane 91 fuel already has cleaner so using fuel injector cleaner won't make any difference.
Can you advise how did you fix your problem? Thanks.
Last edited by lovemytoyota; 02-12-2012 at 03:35 PM.
^ that o2 sensor is about $70-$110 only for OE part by Denso (same one Toyota OEM is) if you buy it online on amazon, ebay or rockauto. you can replace it yourself fi you have the tools.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
Additionally, P0135 = Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1). That's not gonna be fixed by running some fuel treatment thru it. Your best bet is to replace the sensor, like fenixus said. Bank1 sensor1 is the one in the rear bank's exhaust downpipe, up against the firewall. You can look up the Denso p/n your car needs here on Denso's online catalog. In that catalog, "universal" just means it doesn't come with the connector; the old connector needs to be transferred to the new sensor. "OE" means it comes with the connector, and is a bit more expensive.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The Following User Says Thank You to BMR For This Useful Post:
Additionally, P0135 = Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1). That's not gonna be fixed by running some fuel treatment thru it. Your best bet is to replace the sensor, like fenixus said. Bank1 sensor1 is the one in the rear bank's exhaust downpipe, up against the firewall. You can look up the Denso p/n your car needs here on Denso's online catalog. In that catalog, "universal" just means it doesn't come with the connector; the old connector needs to be transferred to the new sensor. "OE" means it comes with the connector, and is a bit more expensive.
Hi, BMR,
Thanks so much for your quick posting in response to my question. Upon checking the Denso website, it is listing a different P/N for the upstream and downstream sensor in OEM version. However, the universal ones are of the same part number. I tend to go with the OEM but are the upstream and downstream sensors identical to each other? If I order the universal, the connector has to be transferred. How difficult is to transfer the connector from the old one to the new universal sensor? The saving between the Universal and OE is about $29 (i.e. 42%). Does this saving warrant the extra work?
p.s. I am not an auto mechanic but would to unstained my options. I'd ask my garage guy to do the work for me for an hour of his time at $85. I also don't know why he recommended to use Toyota sensor at $350 a piece over the OE parts.
Your insight will be very much appreciated.
Just got on YouTube and discovered the way to retain the original connector. It is simply the cutting off of the wires from the connector end and connecting them to the sensor wires by using clamp-on metal connectors. Quite easy and straight forward. Now I need to find the exact location of the Bank 1 sensor and the rest should be easy enough.
Some say the 1994 Camry V6 has more than two oxygen sensors.
Can anyone help to clarify this so I can order the right sensor(s)?
Yeah, it's pretty easy to transfer the connector. I crimp them on and then solder them to be sure the connection stays good. The Denso sensors come with the crimping tubes and also heat shrink tubes.
You need either 234-4209 which is the "universal" sensor, or 234-4622, which is the OE with the connector.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The Following User Says Thank You to BMR For This Useful Post:
A special thanks to BMR, FENIXUS, MISTER_PERKINS and AJKALIAN for posting their responses to my question regarding the faulty oxygen sensor. I now have a fairly good idea of what is it, what to order, where to order it, and also how to replace it.
You all are a wonderful group of people.
I will post the result as soon as it is done.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
I would like to thank those people who provided me with all the information I needed to replace the Bank 1 Sensor 1 Oxygen Sensor. I did it over the warm weekend last week. It took less than an hour of time. The Denso OEM sensor cost me less than $70 from autoparts123.com. They offered the cheapest price at my time of ordering. The average price was about $120. They are a good source and I will definitely order from them again.
I did not buy the sensor socket but just use a regular adjustable wrench. I could access the connector from top of the engine by squeezing both of my hands in between the engine and firewall. It is very difficult to unplug the connector if I couldn't get both hand on it.
The Engine Light stayed on for the first few engine starting cycles. After about 5 trips, the light turned off by itself. I didn't even have to reset it with the OBD scanner.
I don't know about the other sensor locations but if it is this one, you can easily replace it yourself. My saving is $400+.
THANK YOU AGAIN.
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