3VZ-FE Timing Belt Questions

[BCRolla]

First post on this forum.

Just bought a 1993 V6 SE 5 spd Camry with 207k km last weekend for $1900 (cdn) .

I have read many posts over the last couple days, about mods, fixes, and timing belts.

Info:

service records from previous owner

Water pump replaced under warranty at 72k km

Timing Belt replaced at 97k km

no information about oil seals


Questions:

I'm going to replace the timing belt soon this weekend or next.

with the timing belt I'm going to do

idler pulleys (no. 1 & 2)
crankshaft oil seals
camshaft oil seals
power steering belt
Alternator belt

power steering fluid flush
coolant system flush

should i bother replacing the water pump, its not leaking currently and makes no unusual sounds?

what about the auto tensioner?

[71Corolla]

On the water pump, you can make the call when you open things up. If there is no play in the bearing or noise when you spin the pump, and no signs of leaking, the water pump is probably fine. But IMO just go ahead and replace it, it is quite a lot of work to get to that stage, so if you skip replacing the WP, you might be doing the job twice. The hydraulic tensioners seem to last a long time in these cars, but it's easy to tell if they are going, pull back the rubber boot and look for leaks. There should be only a trace of or no oil there. If you see more than a tiny bit of oil, replace it.

[Silent Runner]

First of all, congratulations on buying one of the most sought after, and rarest of Camry models, paricularly one with pretty low miles for a nearly 20 year old car, and actual records of previous services records!

^+1, on 71Corollas recommendations, plus maybe a little bit. Do you want to keep this car for a long time? If You plan on hanging on to it for only a couple of years or so, 71's recommendations are right on, but if you like the car alot, as many on this forum would, I suggest that you do everthing you can while your pulling the front of the engine apart, including the waterpump and hydraulic tensioners. It is a big job, but a little more investment now, could save you having to go back in before you want to or have to sell it off.

My guess is that with good interim maintanance, you could probably get another 100k mls, or 160k km out of this car, if it is relatively free of rust, and still shows a clean (oil free) tailpipe.

You will absolutely have to do a clutch replacement soon as well. No manufacturer, or driver can possibly ever prevent the wear that will occur in a clutch system over this time period or milage. Fix it when it breaks, it's going to cost at least a $1000 at a shop, but thats still cheap compared to the $600 a month payments it would take you to get as nice and well equipt. car new on purchase or lease.

[BCRolla]

Ya at the autoparts store last night (Lordco here in Canada) I decided i might as well get the full kit with the waterpump, seals, idlers, and the tensioner if I'm gonna do it.

Well the clutch feels like brand new it grabs right at the floor. If required I would change the clutch myself can't be as bad as my old Rolla's.

From my previous experiences with Toyota though they seem to last until the car falls apart. I had two Corolla 4WD Wagons I replaced the clutch on the first one at 340,xxx km that's after teaching 7 people how to drive std, and dozens of rally/drift/4wd driving in snow and mud.

When i finally said enough is enough and pulled the motor and trans from the car to change the clutch I removed the original OEM clutch(i know it was the original because i got the car from the original owner who never had it done) from the car and it still had tons of life left the only thing that needed replacing was the pilot bearing but i did the whole thing anyways. Just amazing cars I never bother changing the clutch on the second corolla, and I taught like 3 or 4 people to drive std on that clutch too.

[mazdaverx7]

changing the clutch on a 3VZ-FE requires dropping the entire front subframe before the trans comes down. its not a task for the weak hearted and i can guarantee you its more work than one would think. i did it myself when i bought my 92 SE in 2005.

[BCRolla]

Still can't be as bad as a 4wd Corolla, I had to use a engine lift to pull the transmission and motor completely out of the car disconnect the CV's, drive shaft, all electrical connections, steering knuckles, part of the sub frame, cooling system, rad removal, airbox, etc... was f***ing horrid.

The worst is i had to do it in a driveway with no cover, and it pissed rain for all three days I did it. Could have been done in 1 1/2 or 2 days but I had to wait for the flywheel to get turned which was the better part of the second day.