2001 camry 5s-fe o2 sensor and misfiring problems

[tai]

im a honda guy but my parents own toyotas. so i dont know much about them as far as sensors and common problems.

i have never experienced the problem but my dad has
he says when he was driving the car would buck when he hit the brake(engine related). and today when he was coming from work he said it was sputtering and misfiring like a bad plug or something. he could hear it from the exhaust note and the engine. he told me to come and when we started it the noise and problems were gone.

first thing i do is check to see if their are ay cel sure enough p1135 for primary o2 sensor. so i order the part from an online oem place.
part # 89467-41011
i got it and look at the one on the car and the wires are way to short. i dont know why because the part number is correct.
thats my first problem in getting the car fixed i want the cel's gone.
is there a reason why the o2 sensor wiring is short. is it maybe for the secondary o2 sensor.

any feedback would be much appreciated
if you guys need help with any 90's honda i know every bolt, plug and sensor on those

[houra]

camry has two O2 sensor, one is near radiator and other:
DIY : Downstream Oxygen O2 Sensor replacement

[tai]

yes i understand this
so did i receive the wrong part
or is the code p1135 for the second o2 sensor

im starting to think i got the wrong part and was suppose to get OEM Part # : 89467-33011

ill have to make some calls tommarow
the cel was so vague on my reader it just read o2 heater circuit malfunction

[88 LE]

P1135 = A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Bank 1 Sensor 1 = front sensor, in exhaust manifold.


Heater can be checked for resistance:

[tai]

understood. i will check it soon. but i dont think the hesitation is related at all since its just a heater circuit that controls when the o2 heats up.

i took the plugs out and they were nasty. also some denso brand. going to buy so new ngk plugs tommarow

happy thanksgiving

[tai]

today i got new spark plugs and a new o2 sensor
no cel and car runs great. but doesn't mean the problem is fixed yet since it was intermittent. we will see thoughh. i dont see how heater circuit has anything to do with afr or engine running once warm.

a quick note to take is my dad said it only happens when tank is full or near full

[tai]

ok guys my dad has informed me it has happened again.
a couple days ago the cel came back on so i checked it and it was
p0401 egr valve insufficient flow
a day later my dad called me telling me the car is bucking again when he is braking.

he was driving fine at 45mph~ then as soon as he starts to brake the car bucks and misfires. almost stalls. he gives it gas a couple times and its back to normal.
anyone have any idea.

will be cleaning egr system soon before i start to diagnose/replace anything

[Pauloil]

fuel relay intermittently bad, filter plugged?

[JohnGD]

Either the valve/pipe is clogged with carbon or the EGR VSV below the intake manifold is sticking.

Have you checked/cleaned the idle air control valve? If you need to clean it it's best to disassemble it:
5sfe IAC Removal (lots of pictures)

I'd also check for vacuum/air leaks in the brake booster area. Also, if driving conditions are safe to do so, would shifting it to neutral solve it instead of giving it gas? If so it may be torque converter clutch related.

Originally Posted by tai

ok guys my dad has informed me it has happened again.
a couple days ago the cel came back on so i checked it and it was
p0401 egr valve insufficient flow
a day later my dad called me telling me the car is bucking again when he is braking.

he was driving fine at 45mph~ then as soon as he starts to brake the car bucks and misfires. almost stalls. he gives it gas a couple times and its back to normal.
anyone have any idea.

will be cleaning egr system soon before i start to diagnose/replace anything

[tai]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Either the valve/pipe is clogged with carbon or the EGR VSV below the intake manifold is sticking.

Have you checked/cleaned the idle air control valve? If you need to clean it it's best to disassemble it:
5sfe IAC Removal (lots of pictures)

I'd also check for vacuum/air leaks in the brake booster area. Also, if driving conditions are safe to do so, would shifting it to neutral solve it instead of giving it gas? If so it may be torque converter clutch related.

thanks for the replies guys. i would like to solve the cel first since im assuming the tq converter has nothing to do with the egr. once the cels are solved i hope to eliminate the problem. but if not i will then look into other causes.

ill check for vaccum leaks \

i dont thin this is iacv since most cars dont rely on the iacv to do anything when car is fully warm. meaning the ports for iacv are closed when engine warms