Pulling my hair out here/charging system 95 camry

[Melfina]

Ok so here goes:
I am a new owner of a 95 camry 4cyl 2.2, automatic transmission.
As I was driving the other day the radio died, then the gauges (but not the warning lights, the od/off light was flashing) and the ac/heater blower followed. About a mile later down the road I stalled out, no restarting the car. Upon inspection under the hood I realized I needed a new battery and terminals. Replaced those and tested the charging system with one of those little things you plug into your cig lighter that tells you the voltage of the battery and alternator, battery obviously fine, alternator reading dead. Replaced alternator and belt, tester still says alt is dead. Checked all charging system fuses except the 100a alt fuse in the engine compartment (the screw is too tight for me to get it out, but it looks fine from the top). Before I rip the alternator out again and go have it tested/replaced is there anything else I should check? Car will start, but battery drains and gauges/ac blower are still dead (radio is on tho). Weird thing is the charging/battery/alt (whatever that warning light is called) never came on and still isn't on. The only other thing I can think of is there is a problem in the engine wiring harness somewhere but I don't know how to check for it and certainly don't know about how I would go about replacing it if I did have to. Any help is greatly appreciated, I am totally an amateur mechanic and my husband is not much help lol

[Mike Gerber]

If the car is drivable, take it to an auto parts store like Autozone where they will check the battery/charging system right on the car for free. If it is not drivable, recharge the battery from an external source and drive it there.

You can also do a bacis check of the charging system yourself, if you have a digital volt/ohmenter. (If you don't have one Walmart probably sells one for $10-$15 that will work. If you have a Harbor Freight Tools store in your area you can get one even cheaper.) All you need is a basic one. Just make sure it is digital, not analog. With the car off, set the meter on 20 volts DC. Touch the 2 leads to the 2 battery posts. If the battery is properly charged, you should see a reading of around 12-1/4 to 12-1/2 volts. Next start the car and take another reading with the engine running. If the alternator is working you should see a reading of around 14-1/2 volts. If it is still reading what you measured with the engine off or slightly lower, then the alternator is not charging. If that is the case, I would recherck all connections. If the coonections all seem good, then I would take the alternator back to the store where you purchased it. It wouldn't be the first time a bulk rebuit alternator was defective right out of the box.

Mike