2001 Camry, White Smoke on Start-up (not condensation), No Overheating - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-29-2011, 08:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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2001 Camry, White Smoke on Start-up (not condensation), No Overheating

I have a 2001 Camry that was previously owned by my mom (she purchased it new). It's been babied, I've been religious about oil changes (last was two months ago) at the dealership and has never had any mechanical issues.

About a month ago, I noticed white smoke at start-up that quickly dissipates and it generally doesn't happen again until the next morning. It was not yet cold and I'm certain it was more than just normal condensation. It has never overheated, the smoke doesn't have a light blue tint, doesn't have an odor that I've noticed, and the car has been running fine.

I went on vacation for 10 days and the car sat. When I returned and started it, I saw the same amount of white smoke that I've been seeing, but within a few minutes, the check engine light came on. I don't know if I'm being paranoid, but the car feels like it's driving a little rough when I'm going slowly and letting it coast. A little tiny bit jerky/bumpy, maybe?

I have an appointment with the mechanic at 10 this morning, but I was hoping to get some insight from the experts in here. I'd like to go in there with at least a little knowledge of the possibilities. This mechanic is a new one (my old one of 10 years recently retired) and has only worked on my Subaru, which I've become an expert on over the years.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Katie
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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go to nearest Autozone or Advance Auto Parts and get the codes scanned for free. post back the trouble code and go from there.

white smoke at startup could be an indication of a bad Head Gasket (is your car 4cyl or V6?), especially if the coolant level in return tank drops fast (normal evaporation may occur over time in Summer) like in days. however there is a bunch of tests on car that need to be done before jumping to any conclusions.

it still could be leaking valve stem seals which causes some oil & moisture burn up at every cold start and your CEL problem might be totally unrelated.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The mechanic will read the code this morning. It's a V4.

After doing a ton of reading online, here's the list of possibilities I've come up with:

Leaking valve system seals
Head gaskets (though it seems one of the main symptoms of that is overheating of vehicle, which hasn't happened once)
Transmission fluid leak
Catalytic converter
Gel/sludge issues
Timing chain puncture of engine block (I'm not sure if this applies to mine, as I'm not sure if I have chains or a timing belt)
Piston rings

I like to have an idea of possible issues, research/read about them, look into general cost of repairs, etc., especially since I'm using a new guy. We haven't established trust yet! :p

Any of the things on that list seem like an impossibility?
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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your engine is an I4 (or Inline 4cyl) and not V4 (V-shaped 4cylinder used on some motor bikes).
also there is no timing chain on this model, it uses a timing belt which needs to be replaced together with the water pump every 90k miles.

what was the trouble code?
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'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Oh, der. Thank you!

I'll post back when I hear what it is/when he tells me what he thinks the issue is.

Thank you for your replies!
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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no probs

just before you let the new mechanic working on car, hear out opinions on forums. other people might chime in with important for you clues.

once I know the error code, I can post here the probable trouble areas from service manual for this car. I am no mechanic though, just a guy who loves (and somewhat knows) those cars

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Originally Posted by katiechristine View Post
Oh, der. Thank you!

I'll post back when I hear what it is/when he tells me what he thinks the issue is.

Thank you for your replies!
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4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The error code was related to the air cleaner box sensor (I'm not sure if I'm getting that name exactly right). Basically, it was sensing it was negative 40 degrees, causing enriching of the fuel. There were fuel drips in the tailpipe and that's what he thinks was causing the smoke upon start-up, which would explain why it would dissipate quickly and wasn't overheating.

$81.00 for sensor, $201.44 total. That also includes changing the fuel filter.

I asked him to the check the timing belt. He said it was changed at 90,000 and he would recommend it be changed at 60,000. It's at 50,000 right now, so he said I have a little time. Is changing it at 90,000 the first time and 60,000 the second time standard? Why the difference in mileage? He quoted me $514.36 for that if/when I decide to do it.
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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t-belt should be changed at every 90k miles, not sure why he wants to change it again after only 60k miles if there is nothing wrong with that area of car... maybe he wants to play it safe and assume shorter 5yr/60k miles change interval of unknown part (other than OEM quality).

I think you mean the Intake Air Temperature sensor, makes sense now.
so he replaced also the fuel filter?
I don't think this was really necessary ... but if this filter was never changed (old factory filter on car) then yeah, it's a good idea to swap it out every few years. cost of filter alone was around $30-40 (part only) at dealer if I remember right.

what brand of IAT sensor did he use? what brand of fuel filter did he use? write that down for future.

$514 for timing belt change makes sense only if it includes the water pump and all seals for crankshaft and camshaft and further down to the oil pump and if using good quality aftermarket parts (no stuff from autozone on this one).
using OEM parts may get higher than that depending on parts source.

other than that, timing belt alone is like $30 from the dealer and changing it is a 3hr job (assuming $60/hr labor rate it makes $180 in labor). water pump from dealer was like $70 or so if I remember correctly (MSRP pricing may be higher, I order those parts online with 20-30% off discounts).

ask him how he would charge you for the timing area labor, for replacing everything this OE kit includes (kit is legit, parts are same brands as OEM just no Toyota logo on them):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-Toyota-...item1c1c8ab50e

there is also another kit from same seller which is true OEM with Toyota stamped parts at a little higher price:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-Toyota-...item1c209aecee

neither of kits above includes the seals and o-rings for the oil pump though.
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'02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k

4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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quote: 'The error code was related to the air cleaner box sensor (I'm not sure if I'm getting that name exactly right). Basically, it was sensing it was negative 40 degrees, causing enriching of the fuel. There were fuel drips in the tailpipe and that's what he thinks was causing the smoke upon start-up, which would explain why it would dissipate quickly and wasn't overheating."

Fuel drips in the exhaust pipe? Not likely, as the fuel injectors squirt fuel into the intake track. The only "drips" in the exhaust could be would be water dropplets from condensation. I see no good reason to replace a timing belt with just 60,00 miles on it unless there is an obvious flaw that can be seen. I have some doubts about your mechanic. Hope it all works out.
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I was wondering why he suggested changing it at 60,000. Everything I've read says every 90,000. I will ask him why he suggested 60,000. And yes, the price quoted includes the water pump, all seals, etc. I can't remember everything he listed off after he quoted me the price, but I could ask him for a detailed list for future reference. I'll also be sure to ask for the brand of the IAT sensor and fuel filter (I couldn't find in my records when it has been changed last).

I will ask him again about the fuel drips in the exhaust pipe when I pick up the car. I'm almost positive that's what he said, though I'm going off my (terrible) short term memory (I didn't write it down like I did some of the other stuff). He said nothing about a flaw in the timing belt, just that he recommends it be changed at 60,000. He owns a 2004 Camry. I wonder if that's just what he does with his own?

I'll post his answers to these questions.

Thanks again for the help!
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Maybe if the car is used for towing or under extreme dusty conditions you might change the timing belt early. Maybe ask another mechanic's opinion about things going on with your car?
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I do live in a desertous/windy/dusty region, but I think you're right about a second opinion on the timing belt. Before I have him replace it, I'll take it somewhere else and see what they think.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Timing belt is 90,000. No need to replace it earlier. Usually at that mileage plugs, wires and valve cover gasket are all done in one easy step. It is very very rare to have timing belt failure before 100,000 miles. My camry which is city driven and sees a lot of idle at stop lights had the original belt and water pump last to 110,000.

60,000 is the common interval for interference motors. The camry does not use an interference motor. If the timing belt breaks there is no damage.
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Are you using coolant or engine oil?

Some of the possible causes listed by the mechanic are related to oil consumption and coolant leak (head gasket). I'm not sure what transmission fluid has anything to do with this.

As far as timing belt goes, the later 5SFEs have gone to 90K intervals because a better rubber was used - Highly Saturated Nitrile Rubber (HNBR). The older ones have cheap rubber and last up to 5yr/60K miles.

However, since 5SFE doesn't have an automatic belt tensioner, the belt is probably stretched a little over the years to retard the timing just a little bit. So for those who can do their own work I'm among those who would recommend 5yr/60K mile intervals. If you pay mechanic hourly rates then 6yr/90K should be fine.

Below is an aftermarket parts list I compiled from rockauto.com. There are cheap brands out there, but these are what I'd spec besides OEM. You can also get OEM parts from site sponsors like ToyotaPartsMan who will give you something like 30% off for Toyota parts. EBay's AirCabinMan also has good reviews for OE grade parts.

This list is for reference for what you might want to change:

GATES TCK199 (1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Idler) Timing Belt Component Kit $52.89
GATES K030295 Micro-V AT Power Steering Belt $5.14
GATES K050435 Micro-V AT Alt/AC Belt $14.10
FEL-PRO TCS45920 Crankshaft Front Seal Set $5.10
FEL-PRO TCS45641 Camshaft Front Seal $3.66
NATIONAL 221820 Polyacrylate Oil Pump Shaft Seal $2.86
STANT 48278 180° w/Jiggle Pin OE Type Thermostat $10.94
AISIN (OEM) WPT010A Water pump w/o housing $30.79
FEL-PRO VS50304R1 Valve Cover Gasket Set w/Spark plug tube seals
$18.26
Subtotal $143.74
Shipping about $20

Quote:
Originally Posted by katiechristine View Post
About a month ago, I noticed white smoke at start-up that quickly dissipates and it generally doesn't happen again until the next morning. It was not yet cold and I'm certain it was more than just normal condensation. It has never overheated, the smoke doesn't have a light blue tint, doesn't have an odor that I've noticed, and the car has been running fine.
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