3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I personally wouldn't use tap water to flush the system.
If your cooling system is well maintained without mineral build up, then I'd just do a drain and refill. As far as radiator hoses and thermostat (use only OEM "Kuzeh" brand or Stant OE-exact with a jiggle valve, not the cheap Stants in parts stores).
Loosen the petcock at the bottom of the radiator as well as the drain union (the small brass pipe below the front exhaust manifold). You should get 5-6 qts out. So 1 gal of Toyota Red and 1 gal of distilled water will do.
If you have a digital multimeter put in in 200mv or 2vDC mode, touch the positive to the negative post of the battery and the negative probe into the cold coolant in the radiator neck without touching the sides. Do you read much less than 300mv (0.3v)?
I personally wouldn't use tap water to flush the system.
If your cooling system is well maintained without mineral build up, then I'd just do a drain and refill. As far as radiator hoses and thermostat (use only OEM "Kuzeh" brand or Stant OE-exact with a jiggle valve, not the cheap Stants in parts stores).
Loosen the petcock at the bottom of the radiator as well as the drain union (the small brass pipe below the front exhaust manifold). You should get 5-6 qts out. So 1 gal of Toyota Red and 1 gal of distilled water will do.
If you have a digital multimeter put in in 200mv or 2vDC mode, touch the positive to the negative post of the battery and the negative probe into the cold coolant in the radiator neck without touching the sides. Do you read much less than 300mv (0.3v)?
So if I go in and take out the thermostat, you recommend buying a stant to replace the old one? How many are there 1 or 2?
Loosen the petcock at the bottom of the radiator as well as the drain union (the small brass pipe below the front exhaust manifold). You should get 5-6 qts out. So 1 gal of Toyota Red and 1 gal of distilled water will do.
I'm going to change out my thermostat, (got a P0128) and thought I'd do a drain and fill, like I do with the transmission. I figured I'd drain the coolant as you suggested, then fill it up with distilled water, drive around for a bit, drain the radiator, fill it with distilled water, and repeat it a couple of times.
That way, whatever crud was in the radiator, the block, and the heater core, will be diluted, and flushed out more so, than if you just drained the radiator.
BTW, you can do just a simple drain/refill, just buy 1 gal of Toyota Red and 1 gal of distilled water. The DIY drain from the thermostat housing that's why I mentioned the parts. (Maybe I shouldn't have ). But the following parts are good to replace when doing the timing belt.
Again, on your V6 (not the DIY's I4), do NOT drain from the thermostat housing. It's much of a pain to get to. Just use the petcock and small drain pipe.
I'd use either OEM (Kuzeh brand) or Stant OE-Exact (Local stores probably don't stock the OE-Exact, so unless you can wait for rockauto to ship then local OEM may price out the same (no shipping). www.rockauto.com
You can also contact TN sponsoring member ToyotaPartsMan among others for quotes. He's a dealer seller who gives 30% off for TN members. So if you need OEM stat (one required), gasket and radiator hoses try him too.
Here are the parts list of what you might need from rockauto (double check application), shipping is about $9 to Kansas City. Also google up a 5% TN discount code:
2001 TOYOTA CAMRY 3.0L 2995cc V6 FI [1MZFE] DOHC
GATES Part # 22306 1 5/16" x 23 29/32" Does Not Contain Spring Molded Coolant Hose
Lower $11.90
GATES Part # 22309 1 5/16" x 19 3/16" Does Not Contain Spring Molded Coolant Hose
Upper $11.08
STANT Part # 10233 {#11233} Mini Cap (Closed System) - 16 psi (SAE Range 14-18 psi) OE Type Radiator Cap $5.47
STANT Part # 48128 180° Bottom By-Pass (2 13/64" x 57/64" x 1 53/64" x 1 7/64") w/Jiggle Pin OE Exact Thermostat 180 Degree; OE Temperature $15.35
Subtotal $43.80
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
No need to drive around, just idle or high idle would do. Leave the old stat out and reseal using the old gasket only. If the coolant is drained/refilled every 2 years with distilled water there shouldn't be any crud. In fact the aluminum should be nice and shiny too. But you have a P0128 so that bet may be off.
Otherwise 3 distilled water filled flushes should work, followed by concentrated Red coolant filled to 1/2 the total system capacity and the rest by distilled water. It just takes longer. Then reinstall using a new stat and new rad cap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajkalian
I'm going to change out my thermostat, (got a P0128) and thought I'd do a drain and fill, like I do with the transmission. I figured I'd drain the coolant as you suggested, then fill it up with distilled water, drive around for a bit, drain the radiator, fill it with distilled water, and repeat it a couple of times.
That way, whatever crud was in the radiator, the block, and the heater core, will be diluted, and flushed out more so, than if you just drained the radiator.
What do you think?
.
The Following User Says Thank You to JohnGD For This Useful Post:
......Also, I just looked on the top of my radiator, can someone tell me where the radiator cap is located? It isn't there. ???? Never seen such a thing.
There's a white plastic reservoir ( i think in the back on the firewall ) with a symbol that will tell you it's the coolant, ( most likely a thermometer ). Look carefully as it's hard to see the level without a good light. ( Use a good flashlight ). There are MIN and MAX marks. Also don't mix it up with the windshield wiper fluid, nor brake, nor power steering fluid.
I heard dealers really jacked up the price for the Red coolant to $30/gal. Valvoline asian vehicles formula comes pre-mixed at $11/gal. So 2 gal = $22. Or full strength Valvoline G-05 after a complete flush, but it's a low-silicate coolant so no pumps with rubber seals (like GMB). OEM Aisin claims carbon-ceramic seals.
On a V6 engine 01 camry...Haynes Manual says, "After coolant stops flowing out of the radiator, move the container under the engine block drain plug. Loosen the plug and allow the coolant in block to drain."
My question is, as it states the plug is on both sides of the engine block, do I have to remove both plugs or is one going to drain the whole thing out?
It also recommends that when flushing you use regular water to flush it (via garden hose). The last vehicle we had (my wife had it before we were married) had rust all in it and I am someone sciddish of putting regular water into the coolant system even it is just used for a flush and you use coolant/distilled water for coolant afterward. Thoughts?
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2001 Toyota Camry LE V6 with 156k miles
2007 Toyota Sienna LE with 89k miles
I would also never use straight water, as most people can't accurate calculate the 50:50 ratio and end up lean on antifreeze because of the straight water left behind after the flush. Also, straight water without any 'protection' will rust up your engines insides pretty much instantly.
I only recommend dealer OE thermostats. Have seen too many aftermarket ones fail to work properly, or fail early.
Zerex Asian and Peak Global can also be used.
If you think that you're losing some cooling efficiency due to crud buildup, add some RMI-25 to your system a month or 2 before the coolant change. And, use RMI-25 at every coolant exchange(radiator/block drain/refill). Shorten your coolant change interval to prevent crud buildup.
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Preventive maintenance prevents mechanical problems. Ripe out your owners manual's maintenance schedule and start some common sense intervals for ALL fluids in your vehicle.
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). But the following parts are good to replace when doing the timing belt. 
Linear Mode
