3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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I have an automatic 2001 Camry V6. I recently had my transmission fluid changed (01/11). Especially now that it is cold, it seems the first time (first use of the day) that my car shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear it requires me to get the car up to about 2800-2900 RPMs instead of what is usual around 2000 RPM. I can get it up to 2700 and it won't go, let off the accelerator and it will just run back down in 2nd gear.
After it shifts into the 3rd for the first time (during that drive when the car was started cold), then it doesn't do it again.
The transmission is slipping. That's not good. It may be because of low ATF level. Hopefully this is the case and not other internal problems. I think many members can actually do a better job maintaining cars themselves.
Can you double check ATF condition and level? What fluid did the shop use? I hope it's not T-IV.
The 01 Aisin A541E transmission takes plain Dexron III type fluids, such as Walmart SuperTech ATF or SuperTech Mercon-V. Always read the label for suitable applications.
The transmission is slipping. That's not good. It may be because of low ATF level. Hopefully this is the case and not other internal problems.
Can you double check ATF condition and level? What fluid did the shop use? I hope it's not T-IV.
The 01 Aisin A541E transmission takes plain Dexron III type fluids, such as Walmart SuperTech ATF or SuperTech Mercon-V. Always read the label for suitable applications.
NOt sure what they used, but it says right on the dipstick what to use...
I'll take a pic of the levels and condition, and you tell me what you think.
The ATF level needs to be checked on level ground with the engine running at operating temperature (rad fan on once or twice). Shift through all gears, stopping in each a few seconds and then back in Park. With your parking brake applied of course.
Sometimes it may be hard to read the level because of smears. In that case, wipe clean the dipstick, quickly insert and pull out.
The ATF level needs to be checked on level ground with the engine running at operating temperature (rad fan on once or twice). Shift through all gears, stopping in each a few seconds and then back in Park. With your parking brake applied of course.
Sometimes it may be hard to read the level because of smears. In that case, wipe clean the dipstick, quickly insert and pull out.
Ah, I'll do this later today after I get back from an errand.
You may have a shift solenoid going out. They are attached to the valve body inside the trans oil pan. Mine did the same thing in first gear. Replacing the solenoid did not work. Should you try a solenoid do NOT buy it from a dealer. If you can find someone with a Snapon brand switch box they can test the transmission manually and see what is wrong.
You may have a shift solenoid going out. They are attached to the valve body inside the trans oil pan. Mine did the same thing in first gear. Replacing the solenoid did not work. Should you try a solenoid do NOT buy it from a dealer. If you can find someone with a Snapon brand switch box they can test the transmission manually and see what is wrong.
What is a switch box? Have a link or better description of what is involved in that?
There is the condition and the red mark is where I saw a dry spot. So it looks a little low...
I had the fluid changed early 2011, and I have probably only travelled 10k miles at most.
If you had it changed THAT recently, I'm pretty sure it should still retain some of its brilliant red color. It doesn't look very "fresh" to me. I'll go out to my car later and take a pic for you. I last did my fluid about 9k ago.
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2006 Scion tC 5spd ~ 60k miles
Last edited by mgartner0622; 11-30-2011 at 06:17 PM.
OK, just took a picture. The fluid isn't as red as I expected it to be on a white piece of paper, however I took it on one so we could directly compare. Mine is more very light pink/clear when your's definitely has a shade of brown/grey to it.
OK, just took a picture. The fluid isn't as red as I expected it to be on a white piece of paper, however I took it on one so we could directly compare. Mine is more very light pink/clear when your's definitely has a shade of brown/grey to it.
So does that mean it wasn't changed properly or that something else is wrong causing it to do this?
So does that mean it wasn't changed properly or that something else is wrong causing it to do this?
Well, it depends on what you mean by "changed"
They can change the pain fluid, which only changes about 1/6 or less of the fluid in the system. If this was done, it would easily change back to brownish colored fluid, as it would mix in with the older fluid you had in the system.
If you had a flush done, it should look pretty close to the picture I provided.
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2006 Scion tC 5spd ~ 60k miles
Last edited by mgartner0622; 11-30-2011 at 06:31 PM.
Well, it depends on what you mean by "changed"
They can change the pain fluid, which only changes about 1/6 or less of the fluid in the system. If this was done, it would easily change back to brownish colored fluid, as it would mix in with the older fluid you had in the system.
If you had a flush done, it should look pretty close to the picture I provided.
If you're confident in your abilities you can do it yourself: DIY: 5S-FE Transmission Fluid & Strainer Replacement Procedure
You probably don't want to do the pan since that's probably already been done, but just the latter part with the hose that you remove.
If you want a shop to do it it should be around $70.
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2006 Scion tC 5spd ~ 60k miles
Last edited by mgartner0622; 11-30-2011 at 06:37 PM.
That doesn't look too good for a 10K old fluid, your ATF should look more like mgartner0622's (his got a hint of pink but yours can pass for motor oil if not for the dipstick). It's a bit low and 8 oz should take it into the HOT range. But at this point I think 3 drains/refills may be called for. If you're not mechanically inclined I'd start with drains/refills instead of the cooler line flush method. I'd first bring the ATF into the HOT region, and then measure what you drain out and just add that amount back in. It's the easiest. A gallon of Dexron-III type SuperTech at Walmart is about $13.
As far as the shift solenoids go, they usually will cause MIL or blinking "D" light. If you need a diagnosis, instead of the corner garage I would look up an ATRA transmission rebuilders association member shop. Some are duds, but better than any corner garage.
But I'd do the 3 drains/refills and see how the transmission responds first. Because usually the first thing done is to change the ATF and wipe clean the pan before anything else. I'd start with the cheap stuff first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarryMeBF
There is the condition and the red mark is where I saw a dry spot. So it looks a little low...
I had the fluid changed early 2011, and I have probably only travelled 10k miles at most.
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