Engine rough idle/stalled when coming to a stop, finally got CODE - P0401!!!! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-03-2011, 05:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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4th Generation Engine rough idle/stalled when coming to a stop, finally got CODE - P0401!!!!

Hi all,

I've been going on for the past 3 years here about my 98 Camry 2.2l (5s-fe) and stalling issues and rough idle issue. It finally happened again today while exiting off the interstate. It started to rough idle and had to give it gas to get to where I need to go which wasn't the most desirable places in LA (Skid Row for volunteering at a soup kitchen.)

Once I made the turn to get there, my car stalled out. I quickly got out my ODB-II reader and got a P0401 code which tells me there's an issue with the EGR system.


Here's my next steps,

Clean out the EGR valve and Pipe while getting new EGR valve gaskets in there.

Also replace the EGR Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) since I've read this also fail intermittently.

If anything else, I'll replace the Vacuum Modulator as well.



Should I look at anything else?

Last edited by Savio; 12-04-2011 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you can catch it before it stalls, tap on the EGR valve with a wrench or something and it should come right back to life.
This is classic tales of a sticking valve. Or you could simply block off the vacuum supply and test drive to see if the problem went way.
Sounds to me you need to replace all 3 parts.
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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DIY: 1MZ, EGR, code P0401 & P0402 diagnostic & repair
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech1984 View Post
Sounds to me you need to replace all 3 parts.
The EGR is quite robust and can usually be cleaned along with connecting pipes.
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The EGR is quite robust and can usually be cleaned along with connecting pipes.

I'm considering replacing the EGR valve and pipe as well only because I've seen the bolt on them seemed to be super rusted. I've seen people had a good amount of trouble getting them off.

I'll try cleaning it first with some maybe spare bolts on hand as well as the gaskets. Is there a good cleaner to use? Will it damage the Valve if I soak the whole thing in TB cleaner?

Also, I know Toyota OEM is the way to go but the parts I'm finding at Autozone have a limited lifetime warranty. Is there any drawbacks for using these aftermarket parts rather than OEM?
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Old 12-04-2011, 02:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Also, does anyone know the Toyota Part # for the EGR VSV?

I'm see a couple of part #'s

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_...onentsIndex=20
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Found te part numbers I needed with help from another board member...

25860-74050****
25870-74090****
25627-74011******
25628-74010******
90179-08153******
91511-60614******
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I have the exhaust flow to my EGR disconnected and blocked off.

You could try blocking off the exhaust flow by inserting a piece of aluminum as a block plate before the EGR valve and see if that fixes your problem.

You'll get codes, but your car won't stall or run poorly. $5 fix.


But honestly when I opened up this thread I expected to tell you you'll need to replace the IAC. If cutting off the EGR flow or replacing the EGR doesn't fix your problem. I'd bet you need to replace your IAC.

Last edited by SirThomas88; 12-06-2011 at 04:05 AM.
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Old 12-08-2011, 12:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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4th Generation

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Originally Posted by SirThomas88 View Post


But honestly when I opened up this thread I expected to tell you you'll need to replace the IAC. If cutting off the EGR flow or replacing the EGR doesn't fix your problem. I'd bet you need to replace your IAC.
That's the first thing I did was clean it and it kept coming back so I had it replaced. That didn't fix it. Of course, I was going at it blindly since I couldn't get a code when it idled.

But finally got it and know how to attack it with the help of this forum.

I have all the parts I need for the project this weekend.

VSV on Friday
EGR Mod and Valve cleaning Saturday.
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Old 12-09-2011, 09:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I managed to change out the EGR VSV and EGR Vac Mod today. The Vaccum hoses were clean from the EGR.

I was about to learn out the EGR Valve and Pipe but didn't have one of the gaskets

Will finish up tomorrow and follow up after a long ride.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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done! I will followup tomorrow and some do's, dont's and tips.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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So there are the outcomes of the installs for fixing the P0401 code I received for the past 3 years from this car, albeit, intermittently.

EGR VSV - I couldn't reach the VSV because I couldn't get up there and reach it or see it. I took it to a mechanic who had a lift and was able to get up there easily and get enough leverage on the bolt. It took him 30 minutes to replace the part and cost me $60 bucks. All in all not bad since I could have spent hours laying on my back trying to get it replaced. There are plenty on guides on this forum that show you how to do this.

EGR Vaccum Modulator - This was a fairly simple install. Remove it from the housing container, remove the tubes, and replace. Be sure to inspect the vacuum hoses for cracks and tears. I also sprayed some TB cleaner and let it sit for 30 minutes, before putting the new ones back on. Put the hoses back on, then put the Modulator back in the housing.

EGR Valve - I started off by actually spraying some PB Blaster on the nuts on the top mounted to the intake the day before when working on the Vac Mod. I wasn't sure how hard it would be to remove or if it was rusted.

I put the car on jack stands so I could get underneath the car to get to the union bolt. I don't have to long of arms so I hard to reach up there with a 6 inch adjustable wrench. I flipped the wrench to get enough play on the bolt to start twisting it with my hand. It's very tedious and it's wound on there a good bit.

After the removal of the union bolt, I removed the hoses going into the Valve (one on the side and another on top). The hose from the Vac Mod going to the EGR Valve was ridiculous to get off. I used some TB cleaner and plier's to wiggle it off. This took a while since it's a very snug fit. ***Be careful not to rip it*** I actually need to replace this piece since I did remove bits and pieces of the hose but not enough to warrant leaks.

I used, I believe a 12mm socket to on a 1/4 socket wrench to easily remove the nut. The nut was not that rusted and the PB blaster helped some I'm sure. I had no issues removing the nuts connected to the intake. I snaked out the EGR Valve and Pipe.

From there I sprayed cleaner in all the openings and let it sit for a bit. There wasn't as much carbon build up as I thought but I did see some around the openings. Once I let it sit for a bit, I removed the bolts (10mm) connecting the EGR pipe to the valve. Again, fairly easy to remove. I had bought spares just in case it broke off. Reminder to replace the metal gasket.

I soaked the pipe again along with the valve for about an hour. All and all, the EGR valve/pipe did not have too much carbon build up. I could easily see the the TB cleaner flow out of the openings easily.

On the intake, I needed a small flat head screwdriver to remove the paper valve gasket infused onto the intake. I did spray TB cleaner on it and in the intake during this time as well. I didn't see much carbon build up there but removed the little build up around the opening.

Once all of the valve and pipe got a good soaking, I put a new metal gasket on the pipe and used new bolts, put the valve back on the pipe. I put a new paper gasket on the intake where the valve goes. Snaking the valve back down through the opening, I had my brother in law hold the valve into place so I could easily wind the union bolt back in. When that was done, I went back up top and put the nuts back on the valve to the intake. Be sure you have a new Valve gasket on before you screw the nuts on.

***I think it would have been easier to put the vacuum hose from the Vac Mod on first before snaking it back down into place.***

Put the hoses back and started it up. Of course I had a decent amount of smoke coming from the exhaust since I sprayed a good amount of cleaner in every opening.

Let it run for a bit and took it for a decent ride from LA to Garden Grove. It ran great and didn't sputter, idle or die on me coming off the Hwy.

All and all, good experience to do this.

The next steps for me is to replace all the vacuum hoses, although everyone of them checked out. Just to give me piece of mind


PS...Big thanks goes to fenixus who has helped tremendously along the way. Thanks for answering questions and the guidance!

Last edited by Savio; 12-11-2011 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 12-11-2011, 11:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirThomas88 View Post
I have the exhaust flow to my EGR disconnected and blocked off.

You could try blocking off the exhaust flow by inserting a piece of aluminum as a block plate before the EGR valve and see if that fixes your problem.

You'll get codes, but your car won't stall or run poorly. $5 fix.


But honestly when I opened up this thread I expected to tell you you'll need to replace the IAC. If cutting off the EGR flow or replacing the EGR doesn't fix your problem. I'd bet you need to replace your IAC.
Just curious on the long term issue. I did like that using soda can when I'd older Chevy. With Toyota I've noticed the engine temp increase and I'm afraid it'll affect the O2 sensor and cat converter.
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