First off myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for anything that happens should attempt this repair. This DIY is for informational purposes only
OK guys I decided to do a bit more detailed DIY for the axle replacement on the V6 equipped Gen 3 Camrys. This job from the outside looks plenty intimidating since its requires greasing joints and keeping things together but even snapping pictures I had this job done in 1 hour.
This was done on a 92 3VZFE A/T Camry. Should also be the same for any 92-96 V6 Camry or ES300.
This procedure was for the drivers side of the car but is identical to the procedure for the pass side of the car. I bought this remanufactured axle on ebay from detroitaxle. It shipped fast and was a very good rebuild. Only issue I had was it did not come with a new gasket or correct axle nut forcing me to reuse the old one.
On to the job.
Tools and parts you will need:
1/2 inch drive impact gun
1/2 inch drive impact extensions
1/2 inch to 3/8 drive impact adapter
3/8 drive ratchet and several extensions long extensions (if you don't want to use the adapter)
3/8 drive or 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (depending on how you want to remove the axle bolts)
8mm Allen head socket (preferably name brand like Mac, Snap-on, etc.)
17mm socket
21 MM socket or lug nut sockets for aftermarket wheels
Sledgehammer or tie rod removal tool (I prefer sledgehammer)
30mm impact socket (I can not stress how it important it is to be impact. A regular chrome socket is almost guaranteed to split and possibly let pieces in your face)
Safety Glasses
Gloves and Rags
Jack Stands
Jack
Torque Wrench
Long Pry bar
Diagonal cutting pliers (for cotter pin removal)
Axle
New Cotter pins for tie rod and axle
Multipurpose grease that will work with universal joints
Brake Parts Cleaner
Why we are replacing our axle
Ok lets start.
Most of the tools and supplies
1. Jack up the car and secure it on jack stands.
2. Remove the wheel and place it to the side
3. Remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt that secure the ball joint to the spindle.
4. Remove the cotter pin and 1 17MM nut from the outer tie rod end. I do this by using my hammer and hitting the flat face of the steering arm hard with the hammer. You can also use a tool for this. Do not hit the tie-rod itself in anyway. You can see the hammer marks on the steering arm. Then remove the tie-rod
5. Remove the cotter pin and nut surround and using your impact gun remove the axle nut.
6. Using your pry bar pry between the loose ball joint and control arm and swing the ball joint disengage the ball joint studs from the control arm holes. Next reinstall the nut on the axle a few threads. Then using your hammer tap the axle nut until it is loose in the spline. Next while pulling the hub away from you pull the axle out of the hub. It should look like this.
7. Next remove the 2 10mm bolts and remove the splash shield from the fender apron.
8. Next using your preferred method remove the 6 8mm hex bolts from the differential side of the axle. I chose to use a series of extensions with an adapter on my impact gun. Worked great. You could try a breaker bar an extensions while someone holds the axle or presses the brakes. Then remove the axle from the vehicle.
One bolt removed
All 6 with washer/retainers
9. Most new axle have some form of zip tie holding the adapter and flange together. I leave these on for the time being. Right now grab a large amount of grease and place it inside the bearings of the CV joint then work the joint around in all directions to ensure grease gets everywhere.
10. Remove as much old grease and possible and pack new grease into the flange still bolted to the differential side of the axle.
11. This next part is tricky. If your axle came with a gasket the easiest method is the place the new gasket on the differential side of the axle and use an ultra light layer of grease to keep it on. Then cut the zip ties and hold the 2 pieces together. While you do that place 2 bolts through the holes and bolt the axle up slowly one bolt at a time while ensuring the gasket doesnt move.
Since I didnt have a new gasket I did it my way. I left the zip ties in place and bolted one bolt on to the diff flange first. I then cut the zip ties and moved the axle over and removed the zip ties. I then installed 2 bolts with their retainer/washer and removed the first installed bolt. Install all the 6 bolts next. I use the impact gun and tightened them all in a star pattern. MAKE SURE THEY ARE TIGHT. IF THEY COME LOOSE SEVERE DAMAGE MAY RESULT.
12. Now move the hub out of the way and line new axle up in the hub and feed it in just a little to place the nut on the threads. (The nut they sent is the wrong kind for this year Camry. I reused my old nut)
13. Using your pry bar pry on the control arm in this place. While you pry downward push the hub in to engage the studs of the ball joint onto the control arm.
14. Tighten the 2 nuts and 1 bolt for the ball joint.
15. Reinstall the tie-rod and tighten the 17MM bolt. Install a new cotter pin.
16. Reinstall the fender apron splash shield.
17. Tighten the axle nut to 217lb ft. I usually just crank my impact gun down for a good 6-8 seconds. Then do it again for another 2 seconds. Then install the nut retainer and new cotter pin.
18. Install the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 76 lb ft.
19. Lower the car down and go for a test drive. Your clicking axle busted axle is now no more.
Hope this helps.
The 05
The Camry
The Hardtop
Linear Mode
