High idle upon startup (Cold)--Help

[RNMCGUIRE]

I bought my wife a clean 95 Camry with a 3.0 V6 back in June. Since we've owned it the car has a very high idle upon startup (1900 rpm). I've cleaned the throttle body, replaced the PCV valve and also ran seafoam through the vacuum line hoping to clean up any gunk that may be causing the problem. Nothing has worked and I'm really thinking I may have a bad sensor somewhere. Does anyone have any ideas about where I should start looking? Once the engine is warmed up (10 mins) the car idle's normally.

[carsrus]

[hardtopte72]

The car is supposed to idle high when cold. This is because the car is in Open Loop mode and not reading inputs from the Oxygen sensors. This is sort of like the choke in a carburetor.

[coffee-3000]

I think my 96 v6 camry idles around 1250 to 1500 at startup.
It then drops pretty quickly to 750 where it is suppose to be.
The idle air control valve is in play here. It's job is to direct air into the throttle body to raise the idle speed during startup. Since you don't have your foot on the gas pedel when idling, the air can not enter the throttle body the normal way -- that is through the butterfly valve. But the idle air control valve is suppose to bring the idle speed down to 750 where it should be.

I can check to see how long it usually takes for the idle speed to decend and level off at 750 rpm if you need me to.

[hardtopte72]

Mt 2005 Corolla and 2009 Camry both idle at around 1700-1900 when warming up. Just verified on both. They both don't even have an IAC valve.

[Pauloil]

Stop warming it up. if you put it in gear and drive I don't think it will bother you.

[RNMCGUIRE]

Yes I believe the car should idle initially about 1200 rpm when cold and then lower to about 750-800 when warm. This is how every car I've ever owned or worked on operates. I don't believe that the car is designed to warm itself up at that high of an idle as it's not good for engine wear. I sprayed the IAC again with some Deep Creep and I'm going to let it soak overnight. Maybe it'll clean some more carbon out and help.

[RNMCGUIRE]

Originally Posted by Pauloil

Stop warming it up. if you put it in gear and drive I don't think it will bother you.

The point here is that the initial Idle is way too high and not that I like to let my car "warm up". I shouldn't have to wait 8-10 minutes for the engine rpm to lower to a safe speed in order for me to shift into reverse or drive without fear of damaging my transmission.

[hardtopte72]

If it is that severe then you will need to remove the throttle body and remove the IAC valve. And clean it throughly spraying the hole in throttle body will not do you much good if you have an extrememly caked valve.

[RNMCGUIRE]

Originally Posted by hardtopte72

If it is that severe then you will need to remove the throttle body and remove the IAC valve. And clean it throughly spraying the hole in throttle body will not do you much good if you have an extrememly caked valve.

Yeah I'm considering that also. My throttle body was absolutely filthy so I imagine the valve is as well. I wonder if it's possible to remove without taking the TB off?

[coffee-3000]

There is a couple of write ups in the FAQ section that describe the cleaning of the IACV on a couple of different Camry engines. It sounds like you can do it without removing the TB. But the guy who did the write up for the 5se engine said he had to unbolt the TB from the air intake ( not remove it) so he could disconnect the 3 hoses connected to the IACV. He probably needed a little wiggle room to lift up on the TB to get at things. He is a picture from that thread.

[coffee-3000]

This thread talks about taking the IACV off for cleaning. It is saying that there are some philps head screws that are pretty subborn.


IAC sticking
Let me know how you do it. I wondering if you can't soak it cup of carb cleaner since it has an electrical connector on it.