3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Yes, the struts are probably due for replacement. You can go with Monroe Quick Struts or piece everything together(struts, mounts, front insulator and bumpers can be used reused at this mileage).
As for the humming noise, it could be wheel bearings.
If you what a stiffer ride, I heard that KYB struts are stiffer than most other aftermarket struts. Unfortunately, they don't make a complete strut assembly like Monroe or Gabriel.
yeah, V6's suspension (pretty much same as 4cyl model no matter that engine is heavier) is done around 118k miles...
as for humming, it could be bearings, but it can also be dragging caliper(s) or bad tires too
check it all.
Monroe quickstruts come up cheapest, but they have slight down sides. if you have money to spare I would recommend Gabriel ReadyMounts. I really like Gabriel Ultra struts I had on wife's 4cyl for a few years, better than stock and same quiet (you could only hear gas being compressed, dead silent besides that). monroes are not that quiet at all, and they offer a tad more bounciness.
at 118k miles I would suggest replacing both front Lower Control Arms together with Ball Joints (OEM is the way to go on those, aftermarkets are far worse and similar priced), new front struts & mounts, new sway bar end links (Deeza makes excellent and cheap ones), new stabilizer bar bushings ... and perhaps new (remanufactured) caliper and rotors+pads?
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
Monroe quickstruts come up cheapest, but they have slight down sides. if you have money to spare I would recommend Gabriel ReadyMounts. I really like Gabriel Ultra struts I had on wife's 4cyl for a few years, better than stock and same quiet (you could only hear gas being compressed, dead silent besides that). monroes are not that quiet at all, and they offer a tad more bounciness.
at 118k miles I would suggest replacing both front Lower Control Arms together with Ball Joints (OEM is the way to go on those, aftermarkets are far worse and similar priced), new front struts & mounts, new sway bar end links (Deeza makes excellent and cheap ones), new stabilizer bar bushings ... and perhaps new (remanufactured) caliper and rotors+pads?
I don't hear anything with KYBs, for some reason after I switched back to stock springs the struts are less bouncy and my car handles like a dream, much better than the lowering springs.
My friend's camry still has EVERYTHING original in the suspension at 200k, the ride is interesting to say the least. Only the rear strut mounts creak over speed bumps.
OP, depending on your budget, I would replace the strut assemblies, sway bar bushings and links first then do what fenixus said. Although the brake calipers should still be fine at this mileage, depending on service history.
I think KYB were truly the OEM parts at factory for gen4. I liked the struts, however on wife's car they were a tad bouncy at merely 35-40k miles.
on the other hand Gabriel Ultras were like new at 25k miles (however mounts were reused at died at that time, I sold used Gabriel struts on ebay when switching to monroe quickstruts).
hehehe, i can imagine the ride in camry with original suspension at 200k miles must have been an extreme experience most likely
also a word on factory mounted front wheel bearings. it's possible they failed (and are source of hum at 118k miles), because originally factory used front wheel bearing cartridges with one rubber wall (on axle side) that was prone to failing - rubber wall fails after some time then road dirt, salt and grit gets into bearing and kills it in no time.
new revised OEM bearings are Japanese (either NSK or NTN, forgot which one that was) and they have metal walls on both sides, pretty much indestructible I think.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmesfun
I don't hear anything with KYBs, for some reason after I switched back to stock springs the struts are less bouncy and my car handles like a dream, much better than the lowering springs.
My friend's camry still has EVERYTHING original in the suspension at 200k, the ride is interesting to say the least. Only the rear strut mounts creak over speed bumps.
OP, depending on your budget, I would replace the strut assemblies, sway bar bushings and links first then do what fenixus said. Although the brake calipers should still be fine at this mileage, depending on service history.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
thanks all for the pointers. You guys are awesome.
I took my car to the service station ( not the dealer ) and told them about all the issues I think I had on the car. They did a check and recommended me the changes below:
* change all tires - he said that should smoothen the ride a lot.
* change front inner tie rods. - $650
* change all struts - all worn out - $840
I think all this is too expensive and I am not sure if its worth changing all of this on the old car.
I haven't done tie rods, so I'm not sure... Changing struts is one of those things you can do yourself. Just buy all the parts and follow the DIY on the sticky. Just be careful with the spings because of all that potential energy packed into there. You can rent spring compressors at Autozone for 40 and then they will refund you when you return them. If you are strapped for cash, I would replace parts that are worn. If not, replace all the rubber parts just cause with age and the elements, they break down, but that won't be much of a problem in Sunnyvale. All in all, you can get away with paying ~300-400 if you do it yourself. Tires need to be changed when riding on worn struts for too long. My tires were ovals when I replaced my struts and they got rid of a vibration noise at high speeds. I'd say its worth it from looking your specs of the car. Depending on whether you took care of the car, 118K is relatively new. These cars can go 300+ if taken care of properly.
thanks all for the pointers. You guys are awesome.
I took my car to the service station ( not the dealer ) and told them about all the issues I think I had on the car. They did a check and recommended me the changes below:
* change all tires - he said that should smoothen the ride a lot.
* change front inner tie rods. - $650
* change all struts - all worn out - $840
I think all this is too expensive and I am not sure if its worth changing all of this on the old car.
Let me know what you guys think.
-mastkis
If the tires still have tread left I wouldn't change them until needed.
Changing the inner tie rods is not difficult, $650 is an outrageous price. I made DIY on how to do them, DIY:Inner/Outer Tie Rod Replacement.
For the struts, you can get Monroe Quick Struts, all you would need to do is swap out the old assemblies with the new. You wouldn't have to take apart anything. That would run about $540 plus shipping from RockAuto if you do it yourself.
Start with the struts and yes those prices are high. They have enough miles on them. Monroe QuickStruts have lifetime warranty. However, as mentioned there could be some noises (unless they're coming from lower control arm bushings). KYB and Gabriels are about 50% more. Gabriel assemblies have lifetime warranty, but KYB doesn't warranty against normal wear and tear.
As far as tires go, yes, that's a possibility (the humming). But I'd say wait on those.
Inner tie rod ends - you can check those by grabbing the tie rod and try to move in all directions - in/out/up/down/left/right and see if there is freeplay or looseness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mastkis
thanks all for the pointers. You guys are awesome.
I took my car to the service station ( not the dealer ) and told them about all the issues I think I had on the car. They did a check and recommended me the changes below:
* change all tires - he said that should smoothen the ride a lot.
* change front inner tie rods. - $650
* change all struts - all worn out - $840
I think all this is too expensive and I am not sure if its worth changing all of this on the old car.
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