3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi all! I need your thoughts on why our beloved Camry won't start.
Last week the car stalled twice when it was running and after the engine was at normal operating temperature. It wouldn't restart while turning over.
After letting it sit for an hour or more it started right up. I had it at 1 mechanic last Thursday and Friday and at another on Monday, but of course it never acted up!
Long story short, after getting it back & driving it A LOT (1 hour trips several times) and trips to stores it never stalls anymore, but it is obvious that it will not restart for about 30 minutes or more after turning it off when the engine is warm. I can drive it an hour with the engine running STRONG, pull into a parking lot, turn the ignition off, then try to restart. It turns over great but will not restart until it cools down a while (about 30-40 minutes). This has happened about 5-6 times.
I'd also check the engine coolant temperature sensor (the two-wire thing that the ECU uses, not the 1-wire gauge readout). And then the thermo vacuum valve too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kent55
How do you check the ignition coil and circuit? If that comes next?
The solution to your problem. Are you a Ghost Busters Fan?
I'll bet when you pull your distributor cap off there will be a slimy gel residue on the lower part of the cap.
You've been slimed !!
Actually, your coil has melted....basically.
I bought a Camry that had the exact symptoms.
This problem is caused by a super negligent owner who does a tune-up every ten years....
The rotor and cap on my car was soooo corroded that I actually kept it to show my gear head buddies.
When the coil produces the ZAP, the ignition system is supposed to deliver the ZAP to the point of ignition (spark plugs)
But if the ignition system is soo far gone the resistance is just too much for the ZAP to travel where it is supposed to......so the coil ends up getting sooo hot the internal gel turns to HOT slime and drains out.
After this happens the coil is super irratic and will only perform as it should when cold or cool....not warm or hot.
Anyway......check for slime.
Then replace coil, rotor, cap, wires and spark plugs. Done deal.
Talking about dist cap. I was at the junk yard last week to see if I can find MB parts. Came across one MB that has distributor w/ center electrode completely worn out. You can see zapped and missed fire inside. That owner probably curse at MB for the last year or two before junked it.
So far I have no idea. I took the cap and rotor off to "inspect" the coil but don't know what I'm looking for. SO- I took pictures of what I saw. Also, I read ways to test the coil but don't know how to use my meter- pointless to own I guess.
How do I use it? What do I turn the knob to and where do I plug the positive and Negative in?
This is the directions I have to test:
"Turn the dial indicator on your multimeter to the ohms setting. Insert the red probe from the meter onto the positive terminal, marked by the +, and the black probe onto the negative terminal, marked by the -, to test the primary winding on the coil. The measurement on a cold engine should be between 0.36 and 0.55 ohms. The measurement on a warm engine should be between 0.45 and 0.65 ohms. If the resistance measurement is not within these specifications, the coil is bad and needs to be replaced."
The ohmmeter's range is set to 2000K ohms. You need to turn it to 200 (ohms). That way you'll get better resolution.
The mechanics of the distributor looks ok. The oil looks it's from valve cover leaks and not from internal.
The ignition coil is to the right of the red arrow where you marked "oil". The primary terminal nut on the left is (+) and the nut on the right is (-). You should see approximately 0.36-0.55 ohms.
For the following test switch the meter to 20K. Between the primary (+) and the secondary terminal on the bottom of the coil, you should see 9-15.4 K-ohms.
Then set the meter to DCV 20. Then turn the key to On without starting the engine. Touch the positive probe to the Primary (+) and the negative to battery (-). Do you read about 12V?
Then check the signal generator connetctor. Turn the meter to 2000 ohm range. The oblong 4-pin connector on the upper left of the distributor in the picture are: G+, G-, Ne-, Ne+ from left to right for Federal model; and G-, G2, G1, NE for California emissions. You basically should see about 125-250 ohms here. The exact range are in the free repair guide depending on the emissions.
By looking at your photos I can see that your cap is alot cleaner than mine was when my coil got hot and slimed all over the place.....
However, the symptoms are still the same. Since you already have it apart go ahead and test the readings.
If you find an obvious problem while testing then Great!.....but if you don't keep in mind that your coil is cold.....you said it works when it's cold (surely not as well as a good coil but it still will run the engine)
You might consider running the engine up to operating temperature, getting it to give you the same problem (no start) and test it then.
Of course working on a hot engine can be a pain but you need to see the readings when it is acting up.....
Easier method to at least get an idea.....when engine won't start pull a plug wire, hold it close to a metal area on the engine and have a friend crank over the engine.....no spark tells you "ignition problem"......good spark tells you something else is giving you problems, not the coil.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
