Now getting a P1130 CEL - 98 Camry 2.2 5sfe

[Savio]

I haven't turned on my car in about a week and as I'm driving home and the engine is warm, the rpms go from 200 to 1k. When I finally park, it finally cuts out and I was able to get a code. This time it was a P1130.

As some of you may know, I've been trying to fix issues with my car rough idling previously which gave me a P0401 CEL. I changed out the Vaccum Modulator, EGR VSV and cleaned out the EGR Valve and tube. Seemed to work fine after that.

Now this. Is the P1130 related to the P0401 code? Which o2 sensor do I need to change?

Thanks in advance!

[Woodyg]

Originally Posted by Savio

I haven't turned on my car in about a week and as I'm driving home and the engine is warm, the rpms go from 200 to 1k. When I finally park, it finally cuts out and I was able to get a code. This time it was a P1130.

As some of you may know, I've been trying to fix issues with my car rough idling previously which gave me a P0401 CEL. I changed out the Vaccum Modulator, EGR VSV and cleaned out the EGR Valve and tube. Seemed to work fine after that.

Now this. Is the P1130 related to the P0401 code? Which o2 sensor do I need to change?

Thanks in advance!

You should add a signature for your car

-I am chasing the same code along with a p0171. it might stay off for a week and then come back on. I have not determined what the issue is yet

-the p1130 is for the precat AFR/o2 sensor. it is right in front of you when you open the hood. You need to determne if you have the CA emissions. my Car has the CA emissions and uses an air fuel ratio sensor. Rockauto has the OEM denso one for $100

[Savio]

Originally Posted by Woodyg

You should add a signature for your car

-I am chasing the same code along with a p0171. it might stay off for a week and then come back on. I have not determined what the issue is yet

-the p1130 is for the precat AFR/o2 sensor. it is right in front of you when you open the hood. You need to determne if you have the CA emissions. my Car has the CA emissions and uses an air fuel ratio sensor. Rockauto has the OEM denso one for $100

I'm sure it's CA emissions since it was bought here in CA.
Have you tried changing out the A/F sensor yet? Do you get the same rough idles and surges I'm seeing?

It looks like an easy part to swap out.

[Woodyg]

Originally Posted by Savio

I'm sure it's CA emissions since it was bought here in CA.
Have you tried changing out the A/F sensor yet? Do you get the same rough idles and surges I'm seeing?

It looks like an easy part to swap out.

yes it is an easy part to remove. I have the $10 O2 sensor socket. I took it out to get the # off of it and when i did I noticed it was loose. I was hoping that was my problem. Later I noticed that the 1" hose that runs from the air intake to the VC was almost off, so I put that back on. each time I cleared the codes and they stay off sometimes. they have been off for about a week now. I have not replaced the AFR sensor yet because I was not sure if it was the problem or if i had a bad MAP or a vacuum leak...

[Savio]

When I did the EGR work, I made sure everything was connected back up. I haven't had a chance to check the hoses but I'll take a look at that first.

I don't think the A/F sensor has ever been replaced either so now maybe a good time to do it.

Is a o2 socket necessary for removal?

[Handsonmaxima]

its nice the have one so you dont need to use a box wrench and risk rounding it off.
but if your in cali idt youll need to worry about rust related stuck things like we do in the east.

[Savio]

I'm looking back through old records for when my wife had to do maintenance on the vehicle before my wife and I got together.


She took her car into the dealership because of a P0171 and P1130 CEL back on 10/15/08. The car had 128870 miles on it. It only has 145k on it now.
They replaced the air fuel ratio sensor (P/N 89467-33011) and charged an arm and leg for it. She got it done for $440! ouch!

I suspect something else is wrong here. I don't think the OEM part could fail less than 20k into the part.

Any suggestions here?

[Woodyg]

Originally Posted by Savio

I'm looking back through old records for when my wife had to do maintenance on the vehicle before my wife and I got together.


She took her car into the dealership because of a P0171 and P1130 CEL back on 10/15/08. The car had 128870 miles on it. It only has 145k on it now.
They replaced the air fuel ratio sensor (P/N 89467-33011) and charged an arm and leg for it. She got it done for $440! ouch!

I suspect something else is wrong here. I don't think the OEM part could fail less than 20k into the part.

Any suggestions here?

Ouch is right.........you can get the exact same part from rockauto delivered for $98. it takes about 10 minutes to install. I agree it is probably not the sensor with only 20k on it....do some googgling for that code. maybe it has something to do with the work you did.check for some lines that did not get conected. check that the AFR senosr is not loose. I get those same 2 codes coming and going but my car runs fine.......

[Savio]

Just happened again just after riding around the block when the engine was already warm. I was coasting around 45mph and coming to a stop, I broke, and the engine cut off.

I was trying to get a CEL code but none stayed on for me to get. I tried to restart after I pulled into a parking lot but rough idled before stalling out? I left it off for about 4-5 mins and started fine.

Almost at a loss now.

[Woodyg]

all i can suggest for now is to try and catch a pending code? do you have just a code reader or do you have a scanner?... just a shot in the dark but has the fuel filter been changed?

[fenixus]

here is typical trouble area as described in FSM for P1130 code - "A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) (California Spec.)":
-Open or short in A/F sensor circuit
-A/F sensor
-Air induction system
-EGR system
-Fuel pressure
-Injector
-ECM

usually it means the sensor itself is bad, but since this part is only 20k miles old, I'd rather double check some other stuff first. it could as simple as a sticky AFR Heater relay (on my V6 it's located in small fuse box together with DRL relays) or bad connections at fuses (in main fuse box I think is AFR fuse) or loose junction block connector somewhere.

2 other worst problems would be either broken wiring somewhere (insulation stripped and shorting to chassis somewhere) or failing ECM (easy replacement for cars with no immobilizers, a huge problem if you have an immobilizer).

other simple fixes would be adding a full 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron concetrated fuel system cleaner to half full tank and driving it out, it should take care of dirty/clogged fuel injectors.
worth time is also checking for vacuum leaks around the intake (unmetered air could be getting into engine) or areas touched when working on EGR trio (were all gaskets used new and were all bolts/nuts tightened to OEM torque specs?).

[Savio]

Originally Posted by Woodyg

all i can suggest for now is to try and catch a pending code? do you have just a code reader or do you have a scanner?... just a shot in the dark but has the fuel filter been changed?

yeah, I had a reader with me during the ride to actually try to see if I could pull a code again.

The fuel filter has been changed about 3k miles ago.

[Savio]

Originally Posted by fenixus

here is typical trouble area as described in FSM for P1130 code - "A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) (California Spec.)":
-Open or short in A/F sensor circuit
-A/F sensor
-Air induction system
-EGR system
-Fuel pressure
-Injector
-ECM

usually it means the sensor itself is bad, but since this part is only 20k miles old, I'd rather double check some other stuff first. it could as simple as a sticky AFR Heater relay (on my V6 it's located in small fuse box together with DRL relays) or bad connections at fuses (in main fuse box I think is AFR fuse) or loose junction block connector somewhere.

2 other worst problems would be either broken wiring somewhere (insulation stripped and shorting to chassis somewhere) or failing ECM (easy replacement for cars with no immobilizers, a huge problem if you have an immobilizer).

other simple fixes would be adding a full 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron concetrated fuel system cleaner to half full tank and driving it out, it should take care of dirty/clogged fuel injectors.
worth time is also checking for vacuum leaks around the intake (unmetered air could be getting into engine) or areas touched when working on EGR trio (were all gaskets used new and were all bolts/nuts tightened to OEM torque specs?).

I checked for any vacuum leaks around the intake and didn't see anything loose.

I did use new gaskets for the EGR and tried to torque them accordingly to specs.

It worked perfectly fine after I replaced the EGR system parts and took it for a stroll and up until I was out of town for a week. The car sat for a week without being used.

Not sure why the P1130 code would just turn up now and why I'm still having issues with the engine stalling.

[Savio]

Here's what's been done so far and still having stalling issues:

145258 miles - cleaned EGR Valve and Pipe, replaced gaskets, nuts and bolts.

145242 miles - replaced EGR Vacuum Modulator (OEM) and cleaned hoses to/from Modulator

145239 miles - replaced EGR VSV with Toyota OEM

144,525 miles - replaced PCV hose and intake hose (to air filter)

144,050 miles - replaced spark plug wires and spark plugs (NGK Iridium IX and NGK wires)
- replaced valve cover gasket, used red high temp RTV
- replaced pcv valve and grommet
- cleaned vacuum modulator filter with compressed air

142,798 miles - replaced fuel filter
- replaced Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor

142,665 miles - replaced oil and filter

136,499 miles - replace oil and filter
- replaced Idle speed control Valve (OEM)
- replaced radiator (OEM)

128870 miles - replaced Air Fuel ratio sensor (89467-33011) (OEM)
- replaced engine drive belts (99365-51110-83, 99363-70760-83) (OEM)
- replaced engine oil pan (OEM)



I'm going to make sure all vacuum hoses are secure next and see if some fuel injection cleaner helps. I'll report back.

just fyi, I'm at 145,600 miles

[Savio]

I was inspecting the vacuum tubes that go from the P and R to the intake from the EGR vacuum Modulator and it seems as though it was hard to blow air through there.

I'm assuming air is suppose to move freely if I take the tube off and blow air through. I went ahead and soaked it with some TB cleaner.

I also for good measure sprayed some cleaner into the TB and IAC.

So far all the vacuum tubes look good. I might change out the P and R tubes since they are not as snug as I would like.