clutch replacement on 3rd gen - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

steve76 · 12-28-2011, 06:57 AM

Hey All,

I'm considering replacing my clutch, my 5S-fe has got about 233k kms on the clock. I feel in 1st gear that my disc is almost gone, if I want to start fast. 1st question: is there a need to replace all the clutch set or enough to replace the disc? 2nd: how much work does it take? I wouldn't do it, but if it takes a lot, i.e. getting off the transmission (manual), I would put it a bit later since my mechanic would ask a lot more..
thanks for any idea!

steve

***Eye8Pussies*** · 12-28-2011, 09:56 AM

usually, it's a good idea to get the flywheel resurfaced as well since you're in there, but it's not a must. a must to replace as well though, is the throw-out bearing. If you end up getting and after market clutch (and pressure plate), go to the toytoa dealer to buy an oem throw out bearing, as they are the best ones you can get.

and yes, the transmission has to be taken off the motor. It doesn't HAVE to be dropped, as it can be pushed aside and the clutch can be changed that way as well, but it will depend on your mechanic's skill

steve76 · 12-28-2011, 11:13 AM

Thanks very much! I'd buy an AISIN disc, throw-out bearing some SKF or other good brand, what about the pilot bearing and the clutch cover? Need to replace them as well, or only occasionally. I feel the 1st gear a bit hard to shift when my Camry is still moving.

steve

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

usually, it's a good idea to get the flywheel resurfaced as well since you're in there, but it's not a must. a must to replace as well though, is the throw-out bearing. If you end up getting and after market clutch (and pressure plate), go to the toytoa dealer to buy an oem throw out bearing, as they are the best ones you can get.

and yes, the transmission has to be taken off the motor. It doesn't HAVE to be dropped, as it can be pushed aside and the clutch can be changed that way as well, but it will depend on your mechanic's skill

nevada · 12-28-2011, 12:01 PM

hard to shift is not really an indication that the clutch is worn.
possibly the clutch master cylinder/slave, leaking or need adjusting. or cable, if it uses a cable, is stretched, and needs adjusted.

generally when the clutch is worn, you'll start to notice it slipping in the higher gears first. rolling along in 4th, at 35mph, and nail the throttle, does the engine rev up, but the car doesnt gain speed?

steve76 · 12-28-2011, 12:30 PM

Thanks, I will check this out too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ynevada

hard to shift is not really an indication that the clutch is worn.
possibly the clutch master cylinder/slave, leaking or need adjusting. or cable, if it uses a cable, is stretched, and needs adjusted.

generally when the clutch is worn, you'll start to notice it slipping in the higher gears first. rolling along in 4th, at 35mph, and nail the throttle, does the engine rev up, but the car doesnt gain speed?

thefranks5 · 12-30-2011, 09:44 PM

Ynevada:
I just saw this string, 12-30-11. I'd like to jump in the fray with a question, if that is appropriate.

My 90 Camry was not shifting well. Suddenly, couldn't shift into reverse without shutting down the engine. 1-4 gear, still functioning pretty well.

I replaced the master and slave cylinders today... lonnnnnnng process, but got it done finally. But, at time for test drive, reverse was still grinding, had to stop engine to get it in.

I noticed some vertical play in the arm / plate that the slave unit push rod pushes again. Is that normal, about 1/2 to 1 inch vertical play???

The clutch certainly has more room to be either adjusted or bled out.... When stepping on the clutch pedal, it only seems to be ... not sure what word to use ... engaging or offering resistance on the bottom 1/2 of the clutch pedal stroke.

I'm a total novice at clutch work. Feel free to send me an e-mail directly, if it's in appropriate to jump into an existing thread. My apology to Steve76 for interupting.

***Eye8Pussies*** · 12-31-2011, 03:16 AM

^ that sounds like there may still be some air in the clutch lines, which is only letting you disengage at a lower point in the pedal play

also, there shouldn't be that much vertical play in the release fork (if you are referring to the small "plate" that sticks out of the transmission that the rod on the slave cylinder pushes). not too sure what could cause that problem though, since there isn't much room for vertical play on the release fork unless it has either fallen off its perch a bit, or there is something physically wrong with it and is moving around

I would make sure the clutch hydraulic system is well bled first, and then see if the symptoms go away first. If not, it could be that the cables have stretched as well (still not sure why there is so much play on the fork though)

camrtm3 · 12-31-2011, 10:38 AM

It is possible the fork popped off the ball. The only way to get that back on is to pull the trans off the engine and push it back on.

Actually, You could try to put it back on by pulling the slave cylinder off, and pulling off the rubber grommet. Use the resistance of the pressure plate and pull it to the driver side of the car to pop it back on. Though, not 100% if that will work.

thefranks5 · 12-31-2011, 02:49 PM

Spent another hour + bleeding the system... My mistake was I forgot to bench bleed the master before I put it on.

The clutch pedal/cylinder system is engaging and moving the slave pushrod, and I adjusted the master push rod setting distance out as well, up under the dash (not sure if that is the appropriate term for that adjustment).

At any rate, we finally got the clutch fully bled (Hint to all who follow, MAKE SURE YOU BENCH BLEED THE CYLINDERS before you put them in. It will save a bunch of time)

Whe we went to test the system, however, the clutch is not engaging enough to allow us to shift the car into any gear. So, it seems like the actual clutch might be the problem.

Camtr3: will try manually getting the fork back up... It's worth a try. Only a couple bolts. And am going to try extending out the push rod length on the master cylinder rod again.

I'm afraid my odds are low and I'll probably have to go to the pros and have them install a new clutch. Crap on a cracker, that's about $700-800 bucks. Would love to dodge that bullet. But, we'll see what the Lord has in mind on that one.

Thank you all for your insights and suggestions. Much appreciated

Hope things go well Steve.