2000 camry 3.0 o2 sensor seized - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 01-05-2012, 07:14 AM
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2000 camry 3.0 o2 sensor seized

The o2 sensor is stuck on the back header of the engine. I need to replace it because my cel is on. If I try and put gorilla torque on it will the threads be damaged on the exhaust manifold? How would I repair this without removing the exhaust? Can I just thread the o2 sensor on the few remaining threads and put some tack welds on it?

If I just mess up the threads does anybody also know what size tap I will need to Chase the threads?
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#2 Old 01-05-2012, 09:07 PM
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use generous amounts of PB Blaster, give it a few hours to soak into threads, then spray it again a few minutes before touching it.



if it still doesn't help you can try using a handy $20 propane torcht to heat up the area around old sensor and let it cool down before removal (thermal expansion and contraction should help it break it free).

use an offset oxygen sensor socket like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...nch-97177.html


and a 3/8'' dr click stop torque wrench (it's long, good leverage, keep the handle loose with no tension spring):
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...rench-807.html


or a 3/8'' breaker bar.

I have no idea what size of tap it takes if things go wrong, all I know it has to be big.


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#3 Old 01-05-2012, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011gt View Post
The o2 sensor is stuck on the back header of the engine. I need to replace it because my cel is on. If I try and put gorilla torque on it will the threads be damaged on the exhaust manifold? How would I repair this without removing the exhaust? Can I just thread the o2 sensor on the few remaining threads and put some tack welds on it?

If I just mess up the threads does anybody also know what size tap I will need to Chase the threads?
dont' use any oxygen sensor socket, it will round the bolt if it is really stuck.
instead, get a portable yellow bottle propane torch to heat up the exhaust area where the oxygen sensor goes in, not the oxygen sensor itself, heat it to cherry red, and use the good quality 22mm or 7/8 inch 6 point close ended wrench, discnnect the electric wire harness, it should fit through the wrench hole, always works for me.

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#4 Old 01-08-2012, 11:50 AM
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Well I finally got it changed. Pulled out a bunch of metal stuck into the sensors threads. I hope I'll never have to change it again. I went with the Bosch sensor from oreillys pn 15217. Thanks for the help.
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#5 Old 01-08-2012, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 2011gt View Post
Well I finally got it changed. Pulled out a bunch of metal stuck into the sensors threads. I hope I'll never have to change it again. I went with the Bosch sensor from oreillys pn 15217. Thanks for the help.
So how did you get it off?
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#6 Old 01-08-2012, 12:03 PM
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So how did you get it off?
A big wrench with a cheater bar, two cans of bud light, some choice words and one bloody knuckle.

Also used a little pb blaster but the threads pulled out anyways.
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#7 Old 01-08-2012, 02:23 PM
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Please don't use a torque wrench as a breaker/cheater bar, they are expensive and you can easily break them. Buy a cheap breaker bar and use that.

PB Blaster works well, if you can soak the bolt/nut in question for a couple days, tapping with a hammer to help get the penetrating oil into the threads.

Glad to hear the sensor got out okay!

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#8 Old 01-08-2012, 04:15 PM
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neither expensive (3/8'' at $12 on good promo in HFT, normally around $20 on sale) nor fragile as at least 1/2'' click stop torque wrenches can survive up to 500lbs of weight on the body (with spring loose).

I always use both of my 3/8'' and 1/2'' torque wrenches (the spring can work both directions by the way, but I keep it loose) as breaker bars when loosening stubborn bolts and never a problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiermang View Post
Please don't use a torque wrench as a breaker/cheater bar, they are expensive and you can easily break them. Buy a cheap breaker bar and use that.


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#9 Old 01-08-2012, 06:49 PM
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After breaking the only torque wrench I had at the moment years ago, I'm a bit wary of using them as breaker bars. Proper breaker bars are even cheaper and are easier to slide a piece of pipe over if you need extra grunt, and if they break you're not SOL when re-torquing fasteners.

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