3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 1998 Toyota Camry LE V6 and a January ago, I had my oxygen sensor go out and had it replaced. However upon replacement, the check engine light came on about 20 miles later and then never got around to it. Well my inspections/plate renewals are due this month and decided to replace the sensor again, just by chance the first one might have been bad. Well, just yesterday I changed it and again sure enough its the same thing. Check engine lights comes on with the same code.
I've been reading some stuff online saying it could be the EGR, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a few other things..... But, I really don't have the technical background or feel comfortable working on my car. I tried changing the timing belt myself and ended up failing and having to take to a shop.
But, could there any other possible reasons what could be wrong? I am really stumped and I need to get this fixed as soon as possible.
check the AFR relay and AFR HTR fuse and test sensor socket wires for continuity on ECU end. probably the wiring is broken or some junction connector is getting loose.
__________________ '02 Solara SLE V6 1MZ-FE/A541E Coupe .: Denso/NGK : Akebono SP : Philips 9011 HIR (low+high) : Toshiba HIR2 9012 (fogs) : Magnefine :. @ 131k
'00 Solara SE 5S-FE/A140E Coupe .: NGK : Hawk HPS : Philips XP : RCEng : Magnefine :. @ 82k
4SALE: connectors for Camry Headlight Wiring Harness and ECU
check the AFR relay and AFR HTR fuse and test sensor socket wires for continuity on ECU end. probably the wiring is broken or some junction connector is getting loose.
Are the relay and fuse for the AFR located in the same compartment as the rest of fuses for the car? ( I know this is a stupid question) I'm guessing the ECU is that connector that the sensor plugs into? What values should be it outputting current and voltage wise?
I do want to mention as well the exhaust does smell really rich. So if this another thing that could help figure out the problem...
That's the sensor in the rear bank, up against the firewall. Is that the one you replaced? Sorry, don't mean to offend, but it wouldn't be the first time someone replaced the wrong sensor.
__________________
1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
Is this same as downstream sensor? If so you might have problem with TPS like my truck. It keep tripping the CEL if I drive up north (cold temp) and usually up mountain. I just found out my TPS is defective and it running too rich. My truck also have excessive gas smell despited both O2 has been replaced.
That's the sensor in the rear bank, up against the firewall. Is that the one you replaced? Sorry, don't mean to offend, but it wouldn't be the first time someone replaced the wrong sensor.
I did look up in the Haynes manual that code P0135 is bank 1 sensor 1, so maybe I heard him wrong. And maybe that what it actually is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedL
Let's confirm something really basic: B1S1 is the one closer to the firewall, not to the radiator.
Also, if you're not buying Denso OEM style (not Bosch, not "universal"), you're using a part that's much more likely not to solve the problem.
So this probably wouldn't be the best time to tell you I bought a Bosch one? Lol. However, the first that it was replaced and had failed, it was a Denso one.
Is this same as downstream sensor? If so you might have problem with TPS like my truck. It keep tripping the CEL if I drive up north (cold temp) and usually up mountain. I just found out my TPS is defective and it running too rich. My truck also have excessive gas smell despited both O2 has been replaced.
I'm not sure what you mean about being a downstream, as I've been told its and upstream. However, I do live in Missouri and the weather has not been very cold yet. Been getting alot of days around fifty degrees for most part. Did you eventually just replace your TPS?
I'm not sure what you mean about being a downstream, as I've been told its and upstream. However, I do live in Missouri and the weather has not been very cold yet. Been getting alot of days around fifty degrees for most part. Did you eventually just replace your TPS?
I've not use the scanner for a while and so a bit rusty. I thought b0s1 is upstream and b1s1 is downstream but this could be wrong and I don't have camry. I just got TPS in and will do that sometime this week. Your scanner should be able to tell the TPS function but I think the best way is test the resistance between VTA-E2 terminal...can't tell too much I don't have camry.
I did look up in the Haynes manual that code P0135 is bank 1 sensor 1, so maybe I heard him wrong. And maybe that what it actually is.
So this probably wouldn't be the best time to tell you I bought a Bosch one? Lol. However, the first that it was replaced and had failed, it was a Denso one.
OP: Please confirm that the sensor you replaced is the one buried behind the engine, near the firewall, and not the one sitting conveniently at the front of the engine. You commented and quoted our overlapping posts, but did not state which sensor (by location) you actually changed.
OP: Please confirm that the sensor you replaced is the one buried behind the engine, near the firewall, and not the one sitting conveniently at the front of the engine. You commented and quoted our overlapping posts, but did not state which sensor (by location) you actually changed.
The one that I replaced was the one towards the front of the engine. Originally, the mechanic had replaced it first there at that location so I assumed it was the right one. However, I just did a google search for the location of bank 1 sensor 1 and some are showing its in the front. (such as the one I replaced) if I didn't replaced bank 1 sensor 1, then what sensor did I replace? Bank 2 sensor 2?
Per OBDII standards, bank 1 is the bank that has cylinder #1 in it. Bank 2 on a V style engine is the other bank. On an inline, there is no bank 2.
To identify Sensor 1, sensor 2: start counting at the engine.
So, on 1MZ engine, B1S1 is near the firewall: B2S1 is near the rad; B1S2 is the post cat sensor.
You appear to have changed the wrong sensor.
A little more terminology: The post cat is an Oxygen Sensor. If car of that vintage was built to Cal spec (regardless of where you live) it came with Air Fuel Ratio sensors in the forward positions. Still generally referred to as O2 Sensors, but more sensitive, more expensive.
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