'97 Camry IAT P0110 and P0773?

[elocinx671]

1997 Toyota Camry 2.2L Automatic trans


Hi, I am trying to get my car ready for an emissions test but I currently have a CEL for P0110 (IAT) and P0773 (Shift solenoid E).


Last week I had the codes read at Autozone and had P0110 (IAT), P0773 (Shift solenoid E), and two others P0401 (EGR), P0446 (EVAP).


I fixed the P0401 and P0446, by replacing the EGR modulaor, VSV next to the fuel canister and for the heck of it I replaced the gas cap too.
At the same time I replaced the IAT, just because its over ten years old.

I got all the parts from my Toyota dealership and replaced them last weekend. I also left the battery unplugged so it could reset the CEL.

I went back to Autozone today and now just the codes for IAT and the Shift solenoid are showing.
I have been driving in stop and go and freeway conditions so that the computer can relearn what it needs to for almost a week now.

While at Autozone I also checked my readiness monitors, and the Catalyst and Evap ones are showing as incomplete.
So they probably havent gone through their drive cycles yet. Im thinking the IAT needs to be working properly to complete those monitors.

I havent done any trouble shooting for the shift solenoid yet, but I am planning to change the transmission fluid and filter. Then I will check its wiring.


With the IAT... I have tested the new and old one and the resistance changes (gets lower) as I put them in warm water, so I believe they are working fine.

At the two-pin IAT connector I am getting a 5V signal with the key on and engine off.

The resistance to ground is the same if I test with my multimeter on the ground wire on the 2-pin IAT connector or if I test for ground straight at the battery.

The connector is clean and I have traced parts of its wiring and it looks to be in good shape. I havent removed all the wire loom so I havent done a thorough check yet.


Just wondering if anyone has any other ideas on diagnosing the IAT problem or if something else could cause the IAT to set off that code.

Oh yeah, and I just remembered that my air intake hose clamp at the engine side was completely loose, as in some air could have been sucking staight into the engine and bypassing the air intake box.

Could this cause an airflow problem that would affect the IAT readings? Or should I continue looking for a wiring problem?

Thanks in advance!

[elocinx671]

Just wanted to update on these two codes...


I finally repaired them by replacing the wiring from the SL shift solenoid as well as the IAT sensor.

I went through all the service manual trouble shooting steps and went cazy since everything checked out ok.
So I bought a OBD2 scanner so I could view the live data, and noticed that I was getting a intermittent problem during high engine loads.

So this verified my suspicions on having an intermittent problem. Those are the worse to have, since it was very time consuming to replicate.

After much searching, I found that the engine would lift up and pull on the wiring harness.

This was caused by bad engine motor mounts, so I replaced all of my mounts except for the transmission insulator.
Now the engine doesnt lift much and there is less vibration at idle. I also got a deal, since they were just repackaged OEM Toyota mounts
in a Beck and Arnley box. With Toyota part numbers and all! Cheap from Rockauto.com.

Then I removed the shift solenoid, its great that its located right behind the neutral switch so the oil pan didnt have to come off.
I verified that it was operating as it should, then I just made a new wiring harness, using some spade connectors from the solenoid straight to the ECU.

I did the same for just the IAT positive wire to the ECU and all is well now.

I wouldnt have been able to repair this without the help of the live data scanner and the factory service manual.
I would have been diagnosing blind and just shotguning parts. Im glad to have solved this.

[fenixus]

nice troubleshooting! great deal on OEM mounts, I like that
how much did you pay for all 3 Beck & Arnley?

as for catalyst and EVAP readiness monitors they require certain (not hard on gen4) drive pattern.

a) catalyst on gen4 requires you drive on highway steadily at ~50-60mph for at least 15 minutes (shorter if car was warmed up already to start with) and then taking city exit and driving gently below 2,500rpm for another 5-10 minutes not faster than 35mph.
have your obd2 scanner with you plugged in all the time, you will see when ECU marks it complete so you can stop driving around and go home

b) EVAP requires idling for 1 hour (or faster with A/C turned on) from a cold start (cold soaked engine, after at least 8 hours of standing), however nobody wants to waste fuel, so wait and in 2-3 days of morning and evening driving and some traffic jams it should get completed by itself.

with a working IAT they should get completed fairly fast, catalyst within half hour and EVAP in a day or two.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by elocinx671

I wouldnt have been able to repair this without the help of the live data scanner and the factory service manual.
I would have been diagnosing blind and just shotguning parts. Im glad to have solved this.

You sure you're on the right forum? Wow, someone who actually has a manual and tests parts - Good job

[elocinx671]

Originally Posted by fenixus

nice troubleshooting! great deal on OEM mounts, I like that
how much did you pay for all 3 Beck & Arnley?

as for catalyst and EVAP readiness monitors they require certain (not hard on gen4) drive pattern.

a) catalyst on gen4 requires you drive on highway steadily at ~50-60mph for at least 15 minutes (shorter if car was warmed up already to start with) and then taking city exit and driving gently below 2,500rpm for another 5-10 minutes not faster than 35mph.
have your obd2 scanner with you plugged in all the time, you will see when ECU marks it complete so you can stop driving around and go home

b) EVAP requires idling for 1 hour (or faster with A/C turned on) from a cold start (cold soaked engine, after at least 8 hours of standing), however nobody wants to waste fuel, so wait and in 2-3 days of morning and evening driving and some traffic jams it should get completed by itself.

with a working IAT they should get completed fairly fast, catalyst within half hour and EVAP in a day or two.

I got the front and rear mounts for about $130 shipped. The sealed bag they came in had the OEM Toyota part numbers that my local dealership gave me.

I figured I would give it a shot since last time I ordered a B&A motor mount for a Mazda 3 they gave me a OEM mount with "FoMoCo" on the rubber.
So it was the same genuine crappy Ford motor mount that came with the vehicle. But the price was wayy lower than the dealerships.

I just couldnt justify spending $300+ on mounts from Toyota... at the moment, since I was stuck with those 2 codes. Good thing I lucked out.
I figured, if they were junk aftermarket mounts that I could just replace them pretty easily if they failed.

On my first inspection, I saw that the dog bone mount was trashed so I got that from Toyota of Dallas for about $40.
It didn't fix the engine lifting... then I read a thread here on TN that said if the dog bone is trashed, the front will be too.
And sure enough it was the front mount, so might as well do the rear while i'm under there since its original.


Thank you for posting that info about the readiness monitors.

I passed emissions just a few hours after fixing the wiring!

WA allows 2 monitors to be "not ready" for pre-2000 cars, so I knowingly went there just to get it over with. And passed just enough.

The Cat and EVAP monitors were still not ready, but i'm sure they will set.
I was reading the flow chart in the service manual so I had an idea of what needed to be done, but I didnt want to waste gas.
And if I could pass with two monitors not ready then why wait? Lol. I now have a 2 year pass until my next test date.

Originally Posted by Stillrunning

You sure you're on the right forum? Wow, someone who actually has a manual and tests parts - Good job

Thanks! This forum is great. I really like the FAQ section. Its nice that alot of members have posted their experience with common problems and certain jobs.
Those threads along with the service manual help SOO much. They give me the confidence to tackle anything within my limits.

Just got done with a trans pan and filter drop, diff fluid exchange. Next up is rear brakes, then leaky valve cover gasket... followed by new struts!

Im sure I will be using the great knowledge and info that is archived in this site.


I would like to thank you all for the help and support! I am happy that I can now rest easy, since I now have my emissions tag