3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
92 Camry v-6 3000 problem : car will not hold idle. I have replaced the MAF, and cleaned the throttle body. To get the car to start you have to give it a little throttle while it cranks. The motor will catch quickly and will run fine , as long as you keep the rpms above 1000 or above. when I slowly backing off the throttle and the rpms drops below 1000 the motor stops, as if you have turned it off with the key. Someone told me that it might be the throttle control sensor being located under the throat body. I cannot find it. Looking at the motor from outside and on the drivers side the only thing I see is the distributor. does anyone have a picture of the location of the sensor.
I am without a manual. let me tell you what I see. looking at the firewall , right side throttle body a the point in line with the butterfly valve there is one valve that have with a electric hookup. it has a vacuum pump and line running to the top of the throttle. Just behind it there is another valve past the throttle hookup and butterfly valve system. The larger line from the middle of air intake tubing goes to it. I think that the first is the throttle control because it is solid and the electronic part is the only thing that comes off it. The second has bolts holding what looks like a ford IAC
There are two DIY threads showing how to remove and clean the IAC, this one, and this one. Spraying cleaner down the intake sometimes just doesn't do a good enough job of cleaning it.
Sorry, this is for a different engine. Ignore these threads.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
the motor looks like this one. I took it off and cleaned the face of it by spraying carb cleaner. . it was really coated with carbon. The question is how do I clean the valve which is centered in the face which I cleaned. do I spray carb cleaner into the hole in the end of the valve. I have put it back on without spraying into the hole in the valve and nothing changed
Ah, sorry, the threads I posted earlier were for the wrong engine. Here's the correct one. In that thread, he didn't quite take it apart far enough. When you get to the part where he's showing how to grease the leadscrew, that's when you need to pull the middle part out and clean it. Also clean the hole it goes into.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The Following User Says Thank You to BMR For This Useful Post:
I thought that either I was crazy or blind by what everyone was telling me. You have shown me the way. I' ll get on it tomorrow. When you speak of pulling out the middle , would that be the screw shaft and the hole it came from, Question; by what followed in the series, should I use only white grease on the shaft and not WD-40
When you speak of pulling out the middle , would that be the screw shaft and the hole it came from,
Yes. I did this on mine a while ago, and it was a bit tricky, but I don't remember exactly why, sorry.
Quote:
Question; by what followed in the series, should I use only white grease on the shaft and not WD-40
I didn't use anything additional on mine. It had plenty of grease on the leadscrew. And re-lubing bearings is a bad idea, IMHO. So I just redistributed the grease on the leadscrew and left the bearing alone.
When you're cleaning it, look carefully everywhere for carbon build-up, especially in the side ports. I used a plastic scraper blade to remove it instead of a metal tool, which could scratch things up.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
I pulled the iac off and opened it up and it looks nothing like the screw on. there is a nozzle siding on a smooth shaft. A spring is around the shaft. as you follow the shaft back it enters the housing the face has cutouts and looks like a wagon wheel with the shaft being the hub the body has 2 holes on its sides and you can see the shaft inside . Then comes the black electric housing. unscrewing the three screws allows me to move the two housing right and left and in an out by collapsing the spring . I cleaned what I could. Before the car would cut-off when it reached 1000. Now, it will continue to run down to 200rpm and finally stalls out , but it still will set a running idle speed. without knowledge I did not tear it down any further. Have any instruction as to this type of iac
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Looking at the motor from outside and on the drivers side the only thing I see is the distributor. does anyone have a picture of the location of the sensor.
I' ll get on it tomorrow. When you speak of pulling out the middle , would that be the screw shaft and the hole it came from, Question; by what followed in the series, should I use only white grease on the shaft and not WD-40
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